2007 highlander keyless upgrade

You either have to use a door lock module ie... toydl. Or you have to go in the door for lock, unlock, and the lock detection wire. If you choose to go in the door, you will have to cut the lock detection wire and build a relay. Hope this information helps.

I understand what you are saying, I can give you the motor and switch colors if you want, but the only way to disarm a factory highlander is with keysense and ignition, or doorlocks only. I have added a slave unit like you are to other vehicles, but the toyota's are different. If you need the motor and switch info let me know.

brudnic wrote: You either have to use a door lock module ie... toydl. Or you have to go in the door for lock, unlock, and the lock detection wire. If you choose to go in the door, you will have to cut the lock detection wire and build a relay. Hope this information helps.

No, not true. To install a Pro9232a in a highlander you need three motor wires, all of which are in the drivers kickpanel. They are as follows...

Lock/ blue in one of the two plugs near the bottom of the kickpanel

Unlock/ red in the plug comming from the drivers door harness

Defeat/ white in one of the two plugs near the bottom of the kickpanel

You don't need to use the second lock detection wire on the 9232a...

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

MikeM2 is right. Take note that the third wire, the one at the plug in the kick panel, will change color depending on which side of the plug you're working. The Audiovox instructions are terrible, but it's like this: --The green arm wire goes to the "lock motor" wire in the car...this wire tests as positve when LOCKING the doors. --The red disarm wire goes to the "unlock motor" wire in the car...this wire tests as positive when UNLOCKING ONLY THE DRIVER'S DOOR. --The RED / black disarm-defeat wire goes to the "second unlock motor" wire in the car...this wire tests as positive ONLY when unlocking the REST of the doors.....that is, after you've pressed "unlock" on the factory remote a SECOND time. --The GREEN/ black wire is intended to prevent you from accidentally arming the alarm when locking the doors using the switch on the door panel. This wire isn't easily available on the Highlander, and it's not necessary anyway. Don't connect to anything. --The blue disarm-defeat wire is intended for sedans, and other cars that have a separate trunk....again, not necessary for your car. Don't connect to anything. Other considerations: --You're right that the existing Toyota immobilizer key is a good theft deterrent. It's completely your choice if you want to hook up the starter kill or not. --Since you'll already be at the steering column to get your constant and ignition wires, you can get door trigger there too. There's a negative-trigger wire that goes to the illuminated ring around the keyhole....I always forget the color, but it might be pink. This catches all 5 doors, and you don't need to use the individual doorpin wires. (At the end of the install manual, be sure to perform the section that says "completing the installation," but do it with the car door OPEN. They say to do it with the door closed, but they're wrong, it won't work right.) --Since the 9232A is already set up for a positive-trigger parking light output, the easiest thing would be to get the positive parking lights down in the driver's kick panel, in the same area where the "second-unlock motor" wire is. --If you don't wish to install the siren, just use the 9232A's horn output, to the horn wire in the steering column. Or you could hook up both if you want to. --The shock sensor comes out of the box at its maximum setting. Don't forget to readjust it.

thanks so much guys.  you're a real timesaver.