best place to put cap?

sarcomax wrote: Oh yeah, but the sales guy said that my lights would stop dimming, my system would gain 300db, I would grow facial hair, and my stock 14 inch rims would turn into 26's if I bought a cap... I want my 20 bucks back!!! JK

That only works with SONY caps.

sarcomax wrote: Thanks for the wedding well wishing/advice/warnings!!!!! And in my retail life labor day is known as a helloday... I just hid out in the bay away from the crazies trying to get the limited time deals.

That kind of craziness is good craziness.  Enjoy married life!

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And my recommendation to put it before the distribution block was to provide votage stabilization for all of the amplifiers in the system. ALL amplifiers will "benefit" from the additional current capacity, rumored to be provided by a capacitor. Any resistance provided in a distro block will be present in all of the outputs of that distro block, each of the fused points, correct? If the cap is ONLY present in the subwoofer lead AFTER the distro block, only the bass amplifier will "benefit", while at the same time causing an even more severe voltage drop on the input side of the distribution (due to the additional current demands of the caps own recharging, after it has "done it's job"). With the cap installed on the input side, the voltage sag, for all devices involved, will be identical. AFAIAC, the distortion present or created by a low voltage power supply condition will be FAR more noticeable on a mid/high amplifier than it could EVER be on a subwoofer amplifier. I still recommend placing the cap before the distribution block... That, or use the cap's actual terminal for distribution purposes (like I did), that way you don't have to worry about it. :::::::EDIT::::::: In order to put the cap in the lead, anywhere, you have to cut the lead, introducing, at a minimum, 4 more connection points. Look at it in your mind, you'll see them all... Everyplace there is a metal to metal contact, there is additional resistance - a connection point. And soldering DOESN'T help... Solder is a relatively POOR conductor of electricity, (in fact, it's quite crappy...) being lead and tin (See here for conductivity, relative to silver, copper, and gold); a proper crimp connection i.e. a "cold weld" is the best option. Solder will make you feel better, but it's only REAL benefit is that it is a vibration PROOF connection. Lead is 12.4 times more resistive than copper, and tin is 6.5 times more resistive than copper. That's a SIGNIFICANT addition, I'd say... and you're worried about the voltage drop in the fuse contact points within the distribution block... By creating a distribution block, that is actually INSTALLED ON THE CAP, you end up with a grand total of 3 connection points. Input to distro, cap connection point, and output to amplifier. Seems to me this is the VERY BEST way to do it, if TRULY worried about the miniscule additional resistances introduced by connection points... Oh, wait, that's EXACTLY what I did! ...and SHARED the cap "benefits" with all of the amplifiers!It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Ok I'm going to just put the cap before my distribution block. Thanks for all the weird reply's. You guys sure know how to dig deep into a simple ?

luckydawg003 wrote: You guys sure know how to dig deep into a simple ?

That's what we do! Hope it wasn't TOO confusing for you!It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."