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99 ford explorer, bypass module


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init 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2007
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 05, 2007 at 7:44 PM / IP Logged  

Some of you might remember me from last Spring when I was trying to install a DEI 555P bypass module into my 99 Ford Explorer with PATS.  Well, after much fooling around with it, the general consensus was that the bypass was dead.  So, today, I went out to a local shop to buy a new one, this time, the DEI 1100F.

He didn't have the 1100F, so he reprogrammed a 1100X as a 1100F with the USB cable.

After getting it home, removing all of the old wiring, and installing the new one... it doesn't seem to work, either.  I put it in Installation Mode 2, then I go to program it, but the light never flashes.  It just stays red all the time.  I took it back to the store to make sure it was programmed right, but it seemed to be programmed right.  I've triple checked the connections and they are right.  What do you think I'm doing wrong?

mikvot 
Gold - Posts: 1,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: September 05, 2007 at 8:33 PM / IP Logged  

I'm gonna say that your wiring is wrong. You should be using the type A connection. If i remember right, the picture should be of the plug unplugged and the plug side  facing at you. If that's not it...then get a key overide sl2 from fortin...haven't had a single failure from them.

init 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2007
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 05, 2007 at 9:42 PM / IP Logged  

Yeah, I knew it was the type A.. it not only said it in the installation guide, but when I saw the diagram of the plug I instantly recognized it as I had worked on it before.

I've checked the wiring, but still no good.  I'm going to work on it again tomorrow and see if I can figure it out.  There's no way I could end up with 2 bad ones.

mikvot 
Gold - Posts: 1,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: September 05, 2007 at 10:09 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, that's what i was sort of trying to say.....but in a nice way...lol
init 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2007
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 05, 2007 at 11:14 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry.. I wasn't trying to be rude, but after that first one I made damn sure everything was right.

I wouldn't think it's possible to get 2 defects in a row, but that's my luck, I guess.

BTW, I like your sig...

JWorm 
Platinum - Posts: 2,208
Platinum spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: September 06, 2007 at 8:56 AM / IP Logged  
If you used the igniton and ground wires in the PATS plug did you meter them, or just go off the diagram. Make sure you meter them, sometimes they are backwards.
After verifying you have those correct, switch the Tx and Rx wires around and try to program it again. Don't worry, if you have them backwards it won't damage anything...it just won't work.
init 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2007
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 06, 2007 at 12:37 PM / IP Logged  

The bypass has a wire that taps off of the 12V ignition line in the PATS cable.  I didn't test it this time but when working before I did and I'm pretty sure that it's right.  I'm thinking that the bypass is just using this as a way of knowing when the PATS system is energized and turns on because the bypass itself also has its own 12V supply line which is attached to another constant source and a ground which is connected to chassis.  If what I said above is correct, than that part must be hooked up properly because it comes on and goes off when the vehicle is turned on or off.  I will double-check to be sure.

I didn't test the transmit/receive lines, but the manual for the bypass says that if it senses that the wiring connections are wrong, the light will flash red.  In my case, the light doesn't flash at all.  But again, I will double-check it to be sure and try swapping the Tx/Rx wires and see what happens. This is the only thing that could be the problem at this point, and it must be because there's nothing else that could be the problem.  The light on the thing lights up and when the guy at the shop plugs it into his computer it lights up and allows the firmware to be flashed and it retains the firmware because it displays what is installed on the computer screen, so I seriously doubt there's something wrong with the bypass itself. 


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