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w7 power problem?


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thakidp 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 12, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: October 16, 2007 at 1:14 PM / IP Logged  
nah i have just one battery runnin off the alternator but whats HO?
thakidp
sarcomax 
Copper - Posts: 276
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 09, 2005
Location: California, United States
Posted: October 17, 2007 at 3:33 PM / IP Logged  
High Output.
speakermakers 
Copper - Posts: 231
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 17, 2007 at 11:12 PM / IP Logged  
If the voltage at your battery is around 14 volts and the cap is dipping down to 9 volts then the alternator is not the problem. You don’t need a new alternator to run a 500/1 in a Camry. It wouldn’t hurt (assuming that you can’t feel your wallet). You have a voltage loss between your battery and your cap. Inspect and up grade all points of connection on both power and ground between the alt, bat, and cap. Don’t forget to add a new heavy ground from the alternator to the battery and from the battery to the firewall. The red top is a good battery but is not designed for your needs. Get a yellow top. If you are not getting the acoustic response that you desire with that sub/amp combo you need to take a closer look at your enclosure and its position in the car. In your car the sub needs to be as close as possible to the rear of the trunk or the sub needs to be firing directly into the passenger compartment with the trunk completely sealed off and out of the equation. If you are looking too get the most out of a 10w7 you should be aware that Par (Displacement limited acoustic power output) for a 10w7 in a sealed enclosure is very low in relation to its power consumption. In other words you will not be amazed with the results in a sealed enclosure (unless your standards are very low). This sub is engineered from the ground up to be put in a vented enclosure (correctly designed). In the event that you have a properly designed vented enclosure your amp has several adjustments on it that are specifically designed to maximize Par for your sub in a vented enclosure. The particular settings are dependant on the specific enclosure that you have though. So any one who throws some arbitrary numbers at you for these settings is just guessing at best.
thakidp 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 12, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: October 18, 2007 at 3:57 AM / IP Logged  
yea shouldve got the yellow top but the guy at discount told me the red would be better for music but yea ill check all the connections maybe even upgrade to a higher farad cap but i do have the custom ported box built to the specs of a 10w7 and it sounds great now although i have the amp gain set pretty low when i turn it up is when i have the power loss thats why i thought it was the alt cause thats the only time when the cap would drop down
thakidp
jvillefinest 
Copper - Posts: 255
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 29, 2003
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: October 18, 2007 at 5:56 AM / IP Logged  
drop the cap and see if that doesnt fix your problems...if the charging system is keeping up and your cap is droping that low then the amp is shutting down! that my be the reason it is "missing" beats.
2007 Acura TSX
SQ setup in the works
speakermakers 
Copper - Posts: 231
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 18, 2007 at 11:07 PM / IP Logged  
I am convinced that you have two interacting problems.
1st your amp settings need to be dialed. Due to the flexibility that JL built into your amp it is capable of some pretty bad behavior if set incorrectly. If you can post the internal volume and port dimensions of your enclosure I can provide you with information on all of your settings that will be within 20%. In the event that you have access to a true RMS DMM and a laptop and are willing to get your hands dirty I can get you to within 1% of the optimal settings. In the event that your settings are very wrong your amp could be demanding in excess of 200% the current required to do the same job correctly.
2nd You are having power problems that are due to a combination of bad connections and the very wrong battery. The red top is designed to discharge slowly over a very long period of time and to charge slowly as well (great for trucks that run hours on end). On top of that it will not tolerate deep cycling, and deep cycling for that battery is any thing below 11.34 volts. Your factory alternator is simply not up to the task. On top of that your power hungry amp/sub/incorrect settings-combo is antagonizing the situation
speakermakers 
Copper - Posts: 231
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 18, 2007 at 11:32 PM / IP Logged  
Also to check your connections for voltage drop in real time simply connect one end of your DMM to the positive terminal of your battery and the other end to the connection or component that you would like to check. For example your cap positive terminal or your amps positive terminal. Your meter will show in real time any difference in voltage potential. If the numbers move to quickly to read you should use the peak hold setting on your meter to record the highest voltage differential.
This also works on the grounds. Try checking for voltage between your negative battery terminal and your alternator case, from your battery negative to your amps ground point etc.
This makes it very simple to track down bottle necks in the entire electrical system.
Of coarse this should be done with the engine running and the system bumping.
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