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98 accord lock/unlock wires


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bcuz 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 23, 2003 at 2:33 PM / IP Logged  

98 accord lock/unlock wires - Last Post -- posted image.Going on 8 hours sleep since thurs nite and need to get my wife's car back together!!  I cannot find the door lock/unlock buttons.  This is a 98 Accord EX.  I have several diagrams showing the wires to be in a 20 pin green connector in the passenger side fuse pnl/kick pnl.  Different diagrams are showing me different colors.  Since this is a negative pulse lock I should be able to test for a neg. signal at lock or unlock, correct?  I have tested every wire under the entire dash this way and have found nothing.

Also, not sure where to tie in starter kill relay.  I have a tech note saying tying into this wire before it enters the driver's side fuse box may cause a check engine light to come on.  Can anyone tell me for sure where to make this tie.  One person told me to find the starter wire behing the heater, can someone be a little more specific?

Lastly, my factory keyless entry will not open the trunk since I got the new remote tied in via a relay.  Any ideas??

My remote start/alarm is a DEI Hornet 554T

Thanks

bcuz
Chris Luongo 
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Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 23, 2003 at 3:12 PM / IP Logged  
LOCK WIRES: In the passenger side fuse box, there's a light green rectangular plug. It's maybe 10 pins wide, two pins tall, and all the wires run very tightly toward the front of the car.
They should be BLACK/ blue and orange on the EX. To test them, you must turn the key back and forth in the passenger's door; they to NOT test off the switch on the door panel.
Don't forget that the EX has a factory alarm-----it will automatically arm and disarm when you use these wires.
You'll also need to disarm during remote start. Tie the DEI's "factory alarm disarm" wire to the car's unlock wire; the car will disarm and unlock before remote starting. Then, attach a diode to the small purple wire in the relay pack's ribbon harness---attach the other end of the diode to the lock wire----now the car will re-lock itself as the remote starter engages.
STARTER KILL: The thick wires that come out of the ignition harness go into a large 6-pin plug at the fuse box; you can see this by following the wires. According to that warning, you must place your starter kill somewhere on this harness.....that means it's easy for a crook to find, but at least you won't have any troubles with your car.
If you're a novice installer, and not concerned about the ultimate in security, just do your starter kill at the ignition harness...although I'm sure there's some better way to do it also.
TRUNK RELEASE: I'm not sure why the factory one wouldn't work. When you made your connection to the car's trunk release wire, did you cut it in half, either on purpose or by accident? It should just be opened up and spliced into; that's all.
bcuz 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 23, 2003 at 7:07 PM / IP Logged  

Hi Chris-thanks for the reply.

I know which plug you are referring to for the lock/unlock.  I will test the way you described.  Before I was using the factory remote to lock/unlock while I checked for a neg signal with my DMM.  Not sure why this would not work.

STARTER KILL: what do you think about going directly to the starter and running the neg input through my relay.  I wasn't sure if this was a good idea.

I didn't cut the trunk release wire, just spliced into it.  I'll have to do some more digging on that one. 

Thanks again Chris, this site is awesome.

Brian Cousins

bcuz
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 24, 2003 at 7:10 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, this site is pretty cool; I like coming here.
Doing a starter kill right at the starter ought to work, although it sounds like a lot of labor to me. Also, you'll have to be extra careful to do a good wiring job---underhood is a much harsher environment than in the car.
Remember, your kill doesn't necessarily have to be a starter kill---it just has to be something that would preven the car from operating if the alarm is on. You could consider a fuel pump or ignition kill....but then if something failed while driving, the engine would stall, and that wouldn't be much fun....just preventing the engine from starting would be safer.
You might try digging around the center console and getting to the neutral safety switch---you gotta figure, the car won't start if it's in gear, right? Therefore, there must be some kind of switch at the shifter, and if you can emulate the switch, you can prevent the car from starting.
Just remember, though, this'll prevent the remote start from working, too. Maybe you could configure something using the blue or blue/black "status" wire from the DEI piece, to allow the car to start when the remote start is active.......you'd basically have to "kill your kill" if that makes sense.

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