viper 5901 on 09 mazdaspeed 3

Hows it going guys, I was referred here by some people on one of my mazda forums and I have been reading up on some of the other threads regarding installing viper remote start/security on mazda 3 hatchbacks and mazdaspeed 3s since their wiring is identical i believe up until the 2010 models since they have been redesigned. I have already printed out from my service manual the connector diagrams for the pcm and the entire passenger junction box behind the glove box which is where most of the wires i will need are located (except for the remote start wiring). If you guys need a link to these let me know i can maybe email one of you the appropriate pages.   I really dont want to pay almost 300 more dollars for this install that i feel i an do myself since i have already had my entire car torn apart basically during my turbo timer/audio install. I am pretty experienced as far as wiring goes. I have been doing my own car audio installs for the past five years including amps head units, subs, signal processors, etc. as well as installing my turbo timer on my speed 3 last year. That was my first time really messing with ignition harness wiring and this alarm seems to be a lot more involved since i have never had to mess with relays, diodes, and things like that and i hope i will not need to with this install. I saw on another thread here that i should use the dome light wire for the door pin wire since i don't know how to "diode seperate" all four door signals to be used. Also Do i need to hook up the H1/6 (Violet) or H1/8 (Green) for the door trigger? I have several other questions however regarding the pkfm module that i will be using to bypass the factory pats immobilizer and some features on the alarm itself. I hope some of you guys can help me out here. First question, Do you have to do like these instructions below that i copied from the pkfm install instructions in step 3 and use a jumper or some crap in order to program the module? After all connection is done, if the LED stay OFF, the module is already programmed. If the module has never been programmed, the LED will comes ON and will stay ON until the programming is finished. 1- Turn the first valid key to "ON" position, until the security light goes OFF. Put the key OFF and remove from ignition. 2- Within 5 seconds, turn the second valid key to "ON" position until security light goes OFF. Put the key OFF and remove from ignition. *On manual transmission vehicle, you have to do wire programming before connect D2D.* 3 - ! For automatic transmission vehicle, start the vehicle with remote starter, the module is programmed. ! For manual transmission vehicle, connect temporarily the brown wire of module to vehicle Ground. Use a jumper wire to power up the vehicle ignition. ! When the LED goes OFF and start to flash once per second, the module is programmed. ! If the LED stay ON, repeat from Step 1. 4- For D2D connection, disconnect the module and connect D2D connector and 10 PIN connector. *Each time the GWR is power up or detected in D2D, the LED flash once per second. Second Question Can i use the virtual tach feature on a ms3 or do i have to do like the install book says and use the tach source from a fuel injector and teach it the signal and all that crap? It just seems unnecessary with the virtual tach feature available. Third Question Do i need to hook up the separate wire for the trunk (or hatch) popper on my car since the unlock button usually unlocks the hatch on the factory remote? This is wire H1/1 on the 5901. Fourth Does the turbo timer/remote start feature on a manual car require the little switch they show in the install manual to be depressed each time you exit the car in order for each of these features to be used? Is that little switch the same one used for valet mode? Fifth I see on the PKFM install manual that it utilizes the Transmit and Receive wire from the factory system. Does this info tie into the main brain of the viper via the D2D cable and save me from tapping into the lock/unlock, door triggers, etc or are those wires just used for bypassing the factory PATS?? Sixth Can i use the feature that lets you unlock the driver's door with one push of the unlock button and the rest of the doors with a second push? If so can you tell me which wires on the diagram you used? I see that on the J-06 connector pin T is the generic Lock/Unlock wire, but on Connector J-05 there is a pin L that says it is for Driver Side Door Unlock Control and Im guessing that would be used for Viper wire H2/6 but im not sure. There is also a Pin Y on J-05 that says it is passenger unlock and Pin AP that says Door lock control. Could anyone just shed some light on which ones i need to use for this feature if it is even possible? I have located all the other necessary pins for hood, brake, parking lights, horn etc already however so i have a little start on what i need. Thanks in advance, Scott

not to sound like a smart guy...but if you have all these questions and dont know where to start ..sounds like you may be over your head a bit, if i were you id take it to a good shop and have it done

i have an idea of where to start i have already located every wire i need to use. did you even read what i posted? and i dont have the money to get it installed thats why i have posted my questions here in an attempt to get some questions answered. I thought that was the purpose of this forum.

I have a 2008 Speed3 myself. 1. Put the remote start in Automatic mode for this purpose. Ground the glow plug wire input. When you get to step 3, remote start the car. The ignition will turn on, and the module should program. 2. I used a fuel injector signal. Its easy to get at the ECU. You already have to run your siren wires, and hood pin out there anyway. I also connected to the neutral wire at the ECU. My remote start is in automatic mode, but it will not remote start if in gear. Virtual tach may have issues in extreme cold. 3. Not needed. Its basically a fifth door. 4. Don't know. I stopped using DEI years ago. 5. As far as I know, there are no CAN adapters that work on the Mazda 3 that do door triggers, 6. I hate priority locking. It usually involves a relay. Find the factory alarm disarm wire. One ground pulse should unlock the drivers door, a second pulse shortly after would unlock the other doors. This may vary depending on if you have the OEM alarm. I'm not sure if its even optional on the Speed3, I know my car doesn't have it.

I think as Metz points out you're making a simple job sound hard.  If you don't have the confidence, don't do it!  Re the turbo timer....pulling the car apart to connect constant, ignition live and ground?  I don't think that involves pulling a car apart, any way I usually throw turbo timers away when I fit these units because they all have built in provision and you only need a minute.

howie ll wrote: I think as Metz points out you're making a simple job sound hard.  If you don't have the confidence, don't do it!  Re the turbo timer....pulling the car apart to connect constant, ignition live and ground?  I don't think that involves pulling a car apart, any way I usually throw turbo timers away when I fit these units because they all have built in provision and you only need a minute.

As i clearly stated in my original post, i was referring to installing all of my car audio including my signal processor, amps, capacitor, new door speakers, and finally my turbo timer which itself involved removing the entire center console and drivers side dash as well as the panels surrounding the ignition. The only point i was making with that anyway is that i am familiar with taking the necessary panels off to get to the wires i need and i am currently in the process of figuring out which ones to use since i am new to installing remote starts/security systems.   I am obviously going to remove my turbo timer when i install my alarm since the alarm has a turbo timer built in, which is why i was asking about how to set up the feature on this unit and if anyone knew how it worked. As i already stated i have the confidence and ability to do the install i am just trying to get some of the newer wiring concepts down before my install begins.

scam404, A few things to add. First, I've done a walk through of a remote start install on a car also using a PKFM and uploaded video of it recently. You might find it helpful to watch - I have additional footage of the bypass programming which I'll probably upload tonight. Second, as to the PKFM: it's a great module but the programming can be a bit tricky, and not all that well documented by Bypasskit/Directed. After the remote start installation is complete, i.e. all wires are connected, tach is programmed, and you've done a successful valet takeover, you can program the bypass. The bypass programming sequence that always works for me is as follows (2 already programmed master keys are required for this - valet key won't work, nor will locksmith cloned keys): 1. Turn ignition on with first key. Wait until the theft light goes out. Turn ignition off and remove key. 2. Turn ignition on with second key. Wait until theft light goes out. I'll usually have the remote start completely connected at this point, and activate it before I turn the key off. This helps ensure that it powers up the ignition and the bypass within the car's window of time for programming. Once the remote start flashes the parking lights and the theft light's gone out, turn the key off and remove. 3. At this point, the remote start will probably try, and fail, to remote start the car. Ignition will power up but theft light will flash rapidly and the car won't crank. Ignore this - let it go for a few seconds and then hit the brake to shut it down. 4. Wait 60 seconds, and start the car with a key. It should start normally. 5. At this point, attempt a remote start again. This time it should successfully start and remain running. Test it several times to verify, with at least 30 seconds between each attempt. Third, as far as the tach - it's worthwhile and easy enough to program on a Viper. Connect to an uncommon fuel injector or coil wire, start w/ key, press program button and LED should come on. More reliable than voltage sensing, and there's no brief grind of the starter/multiple crank attempts to worry about. Fourth, the PKFM is an immobilizer bypass only. Will not do all the cool stuff that a 1701G or XK01 would do on a GM vehicle. Fifth, driver's priority unlock. It's doable - the standard method is to have a relay, controlled by the main unlock output from the Viper, work on the driver's door unlock motor lead on the vehicle. If you can link or e-mail me the power lock circuit diagram you've got, I might be able to find an easier way, though. JWorm, Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the factory disarm will only unlock all doors on the 2nd pulse on a Mazda (driver's door unlocks mechanically with the key). I know Toyotas electrically unlock the driver's door though.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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chriswallace187 wrote: JWorm, Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the factory disarm will only unlock all doors on the 2nd pulse on a Mazda (driver's door unlocks mechanically with the key). I know Toyotas electrically unlock the driver's door though.

I connected to the arm and disarm wires instead of the 1-wire lock/unlock wire. It turns the dome light on when unlocking, and shuts it off immediately when locking instead of keeping the dome light delay active. When I hit unlock it does the drivers door first, and then a moment later the other doors. I don't remember if I had to turn on double pulse unlock or not. If I get a chance later I'll hook up my programmer and see what setting it is on.

thanks a lot guys i knew there had to be some people here with some good info. These are the kind of things i needed to get cleared up to make this install a lot easier for me.

Ok more question, I am going to do like others with this car have done and use the factory arm and factory disarm to lock and unlock the doors for my install. But i need to know which harness to use. I am guessing i need to hook them up to the auxiliary harness -200mA factory alarm disarm output and -200mA factory alarm arm output instead of the 3 pin dedicated door lock harness which uses either a blue wire for + lock and - unlock or a green wire for - lock and + unlock. Since my factory circuit used a -1000 ohm connection for the single wire lock/unlock function, i am guessing i will just use the simple factory alarm arm and disarm wires correct? i hope this doesnt read too confusing...