led as turn and park

Ok ive read several post about this. But I feel my situation is a little different I have a 2006 dodge ram. And recently added some led halos.     Currently they are tapped into the parking lights.   But I'd like them to be able to blink as well I read a post saying to just combine the parking light wire and the turn signal wire together as one trigger so when either is powered the halos will act accordingly. Will tying these two power sources cause problems.   My truck is very sensitive to modifications. The tipm and can bus is annoying as hell

I am just about to seek information about this exact same kind of thing! haha. I am thinking that if you add a diode to the ends of both of the wires (so from parkers and from indicators), and then use those as triggers into the halo, it should be ok, but I've just come onto these forums to confirm that so hopefully someone will be able to ;). Denno

That sounds ok - you need the diodes so that the indicators (turn signal) do not power the parking lights and vice-versa. IE - for each LED-side, a diode from each source (park light +12V & flasher light +12V) to the +12V of the LED. The line-end of the diode goes towards the LED. (Imagine the diode symbol as --->|--- where the arrow is the direction that the current can flow, ie, from left to right as shown -->|-- and OUT the line-end. The line as marked on diodes being the same "line" as in the symbol.) That way, +12V can flow from each source (flasher/parker) thru the arrow to the LED. But it won't flow through the other diode because the arrow is the wrong way. (Or as I sometimes put it - it hits a brick wall - namely the line.) What sort of diodes you ask? Or "won't the LED(s) draw too much power?" Nope - usually not. LEDs are often 20mA compared to (say) 4W parkers or 21W flashers that are about 1/3A (330mA) & nearly 2A respectively. (So ~100 LEDs in parallel is equivalent to a typical flasher or brake bulb.) And for 12V, usually LEDs are connected in series "strings" of 3-5 LEDs which is still 20mA. (So 100 paralleled strings @20mA is ~2A.) So almost any diode will do - even "small signal" ones that might only handle 100-200mA. But I/we recommend the common 1N400x series - eg, 1N4004, 1N4007 etc. The 1N400x series handles 1A current. The last digit represents their (reverse blocking) voltage: 4 is 400V; 7 is 1,000V. You only need to "block" (say) 15V, but add a bit extra for spikes. Though the 1N4001 is 50V and 1N4002 is 100V (I think) - and you could get away with those - the 1N4004 is probably the most common and cheapest. (I haven't seen the 01s & 02s for years!). Hence the 1N4004 is oft recommended. And usually I reckon get heaps. You may only need 4, but if packs of 10 or more are cheap, get them - they can be used for so much (eg, across relay coils to quench spikes that can damage electronics). One-off IN4004s are usually about 20c each. I bought a pack of 100 for ~$5. Oh no I didn't - I bought 100 IN4007s for ~$7 instead - just in case I needed the 1,000V rating for something. 5c or 7c each - big deal! Sorry for my extra ramble - I hope it educates rather than confuses. And thanks for asking. Nice to see thinking (or cautious) people that question or confirm other people's advice. (In this case advice from (IMO) IDIOTS!!)

haha thanks   the more rambling the better i understand lol

so the 1N4004 would be more than strong enough     say i add one to each the parking and the turn signal wires    then connect the two after the diodes,   the said diodes would be strong enough to stop the power coming from either power sources from traveling down the opposite wires.

If you want to be sure, you can always hook up the LED's with an ammeter and test how much current it's actually pulling, and then you get a diode that is rated higher than that. But as I'm sure oldspark would have said within his ramble (I didn't read it all :/), a 1A diode should be more than sufficient when dealing with an LED automotive globe. Denno

wellllll  i just realized after testing this out

guess i was a little anxious   wiring them like this:

85: constant Ground

86: Turn signal positive and Parking light positive

30:Fused Power source

87: to the LED halo

this will only work as a turn signal when the parkin lights are off.  

any ideas how to have them come on with the parking lights and blink  and also blink while theyre off  

Ok, the reason for it not working when the parkers are on is exactly that, even though the signal from the indicator is turning on and off (giving the flashing affect), the parkers stay constant, so there is always a logic 1 after the diodes (the OR gate), which means the halo will stay on. ...I had just typed up a big spiel about what I think you could do using relays, but have had to delete it as I worked out that it wouldn't actually work... I can't think of a way to easily do this without soldering up a circuit :/... I am currently doing something very similar to get the exact same effect, however the advantage of my set up is that I have a 'switchback' led globe, which has two circuits, making it much easier to turn off the 'always on' light and swap to the 'flashing like indicator' light.. If I have time later once I've finished the work on my car, I shall look into it a bit more for ya, that is if no one else has already answered it :).

ok after trying a bunch of different ways on paper    this is the only way that seems to work   ill be trying it tomoro

please tell me if there is a simplier way or ways to shrink this layout   i dont know too much about diodes or really anything past positive and negative haha 

again im a rookie and this is just a trial   so be gentle if this looks stupid

https://i55.tinypic.com/ogx4jp.jpg

i believe this is what this setup will do  if anyone sees any errors please tell me

When the truck is keyed ON and accesories are powered, Relay 1 and 2 will be triggered

Relay 1 will send power to the halo with the parking lights power

Relay 2 will do nothingRelay 3 will ground the Left Halo untill the left turn signal or hazard lights are activatedRelay 4 will ground the Right Halo until the right turn signal or hazard lights are activated

With the truck still On, if a turn signal for either side or the hazard lights are activated the positive power source will activate relay 3 and/or 4 and remove its ground for the duration of the turn signal or hazards

When the truck is off,

Relay 1 will be connected to the turn signals Relay 2 will ground both the halosRelay 3 will do nothingRelay 4 will do nothing

With the truck off the Turn signals do not work but hazards and courtesy flashing lights will,  so when the truck is off relay 2 grounds the halos  and the only power source connected to the halos will be the turn signals from relay 1  and when the said turn signals are turned on 

Ok I tried it today and an additional relay was needed. So total of 5 relays!!   Gotta be a simpiler way.        1 relay for the driver side when the truck is on and deliver a ground 1 relay for the driver side when off and deliver a ground 1 relay for the passenger side when on and deliver a ground 1 relay for the passenger side when off and deliver a ground And 1 final relay to deliver power to both halos

Doh! Wired-OTR - my bad! (And really dumb after referring another thread to this one - dbl-d'oh!) If you don't mind the LEDs flashing out of phase when the parkers are on, then it should be simple case of grounding the LED's relay coil (ie, its NOT diode spike-protected #85) to the parker feed. IE: With parkers off: flasher powers #86 (relay) on & off since #85 is grounded thru the parker bulbs. (That assumes bulbs - not LEDs for parkers, else an alternate low-resistance path across the bulb/LED.) With parkers on, the parker powers #85. The relay hence turns on whenever #86 is ground (thru the flasher bulbs), and off whenever the flasher bulbs are +12V - ie, when the flasher-can is flashing. The above is a common way of having something on when either are on but not both. But this simple "wired logic" is only possible with big resistance (current) differences - ie, relay coil current is much less than a bulb, hence the bulb looks like a short to the coil. And it also relies on non-polar devices - ie, a bulbs & relay coils are not polar. If you used bulbs instead of LEDs, you wouldn't need the relay (per LED assembly). (Do I recall something about a bridge diode circuit working instead, or NOT working? Or were relays simpler....) This is a classic case where logic (truth tables) can get way out of hand. (Or is that just me?)