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switches, leds , inline resistors


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electrookie 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: September 12, 2009
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posted: September 18, 2009 at 1:33 AM / IP Logged  
Based on the above threefold subject heading I’ll present a few very basic 12-volt questions. Your kind assistance to help me better understand these concepts (in layman’s terms) would be most appreciated. Due to the hodgepodge of these beginner-level questions, I’ve decided to post in this general section of the forum.
1.) Is it ever acceptable to use an AC-rated toggle switch for a DC application, if voltage and current limitations are not exceeded? For example, could a 3A/125-volt AC toggle switch be used in a 12-volt DC circuit where the current draw of the load (e.g., LED) does not exceed 1 ampere?
For practical purposes, let us assume that the following scenarios involve strictly a red LED (light-emitting diode)…
2.) An LED can be damaged by the discharge of static electricity. Therefore, consider a toggle switch which is placed between a 12-volt DC power source and the anode (+) lead wire of an LED (which is limited by an inline resistor according to specifications). If static electricity is discharged by an operator’s contact with the toggle switch, will the resistor and/or LED most likely get fried? If the switch itself is grounded, would this help preserve the functional integrity of the circuit and its components? If so, is it therefore essential to ground any switch which controls the operation of LEDs within a 12-volt DC circuit?
3.) A current limiting inline resistor is required whenever an LED is attached to a 12-volt power supply.   Here is a simple online calculator which will determine the ideal resistor value in such applications: CLICK HERE. It is known that the lifespan of an LED can be adversely affected by temperature, current, and voltage. Based on Ohm’s Law, if resistance (R) remains constant, any increase in voltage (E) will involve an increase in current (I). Therefore, it would seem logical that a higher resistor value will most likely (barring other considerations) increase the lifespan of an LED. As the resistor value increases (i.e., forward current decreases), the luminous intensity of the LED would also decrease. Of course, there is a certain threshold which must be exceeded for the LED to light at all.   Here is my question: Will increasing the inline resistor value have absolutely no effect on the “blink rate” (i.e., unchanged frequency) of a flashing LED which has an internal IC chip to make it blink? No mention is made of this matter in the following PDF: CLICK HERE.
Once again, I apologize for my obvious incompetence regarding these matters. Thanks for your help!
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,714
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 18, 2009 at 3:45 AM / IP Logged  
The AC rated switch will be fine.
As long as you are not purposely charging your body by rubbing your feet on the carpet, don't worry about the static.  Yes a higher value resistor will lower the voltage across the device.  The resistor value is not so critical to require a calculator.  If the calculator suggests a 470 ohm resisotor, tripling that value will show no visible difference.  And it will reduce the voltage across the LED by a minimal amount.  Use the suggested value and check the voltage across the LED, triple the resistance and check the voltage again.  Reducing the voltage across it will make it last longer.  It may take more resistance than you think to drop the voltage by enough to get any extra life out of the devices.
electrookie 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: September 12, 2009
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posted: September 18, 2009 at 11:38 AM / IP Logged  
i am an idiot wrote:
The AC rated switch will be fine.
As long as you are not purposely charging your body by rubbing your feet on the carpet, don't worry about the static.  Yes a higher value resistor will lower the voltage across the device.  The resistor value is not so critical to require a calculator.  If the calculator suggests a 470 ohm resisotor, tripling that value will show no visible difference.  And it will reduce the voltage across the LED by a minimal amount.  Use the suggested value and check the voltage across the LED, triple the resistance and check the voltage again.  Reducing the voltage across it will make it last longer.  It may take more resistance than you think to drop the voltage by enough to get any extra life out of the devices.
Thanks for the info. That helps a lot!!!
Will reducing the current (and voltage) by introducing a very high-ohm resistor result in a slowed "blink rate" of a flashing LED? Or, is there absolutely no direct relationship between current (or voltage) and pulse frequency? (Sorry if this is a stupid question...)
Thanks again!
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: September 18, 2009 at 1:32 PM / IP Logged  

With LEDs you need to decide what exactly you are going after.  Typically, you either just want an indicator light or you want something so bright that no one can miss it.  If you just want an indicator light that won't blind someone you will be using anywhere from 1K-5K of resistance to dim the LED to the point it isn't distracting.

If you want something that is super bright you need to calculate the resistance so that you achieve maximum current.  When driving directly off a car battery I use 15vdc as the V for my calculations just to build in a bit of headroom to cover me on spikes.

If longevity is part of the requirement consider using a 7805 voltage regulator and the proper resistor.  The 7805 will eliminate voltage fluctuations and will give you a rock solid predictable voltage.

As far as blink rate goes, that is something you will just have to test to find out.  I personally have never use a blinking LED, but all the ones I have ever seen have been 12vdc blinking LEDs anyway so no resistor was needed.  If you want a blinking LED you may want to just look for a blinking 12vdc LED.  I do believe that Parts Express sells them.

Kevin Pierson
tommy... 
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Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 18, 2009 at 3:38 PM / IP Logged  

http://www.qsl.net/yo5ofh/hobby%20circuits/led_circuits.htm ...Quite a few LED wiring and different applications...Not sure if it will help...But its in my favorites...And i thought i would pass it on...!

M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
electrookie 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: September 12, 2009
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posted: September 18, 2009 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for your very informative and helpful advice, Kevin... and for suggesting Parts Express. Coincidentally, this website actually addressed my earlier question pertaining to the blink rate:
Bright blinking LEDs add emphasis to a project and grab the attention of a passerby. Each LED may be speed controlled by increasing or decreasing the supply voltage from 3 VDC to 10 VDC for a speed variance of 2 blinks per second to 2.8 blinks per second.>>> SOURCE
So, it would seem that that voltage does in fact affect pulse frequency in the case of flashing LEDs which have an integrated multivibrator circuit.
The most cost effective place for me to buy suitable LEDs (once shipping is taken into consideration) seems to be this small online store which is based in Colorado: CLICK HERE
These LEDs are pre-wired with inline resistors to limit current according to load specifications within the 9-12 volt DC power supply range. They have a current draw of 20 mA and a relative luminous intensity of approx. 3000 mcd. The viewing angel is also sufficient. However, a 12-volt DC power supply is pretty much ‘maxing out’ the load capability and doesn’t provide much of a buffer for spikes, as you’ve already mentioned. It would be my preference to add a second resistor in series with the first to protect the diode from spikes and to lower the current draw to roughly 10 mA in an attempt to preserve battery life and reduce lumen depreciation over time. Although the 7805 fixed voltage regulator sounds like a great idea, I’m not too sure that I want the supply voltage reduced to a paltry 5-volt input to load. Even if this component can be purchased with a higher output rating (e.g., 9 volts), can I not achieve a comparable effect by adding a kilo-resistor as you've suggested?
Would the best way to approach this problem be to buy a selection of 1000-5000 ohm resistors and see what happens? Or, is there a way to approximate the ideal size of the second resistor in advance? Although I certainly don’t want to illuminate the interior of the whole vehicle, it would be great if the LED would be highly noticeable when looking inward at the dash from the outside.
Thanks for the hyperlink, Tommy. I’ll check it out…
electrookie 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: September 12, 2009
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posted: September 18, 2009 at 10:13 PM / IP Logged  
The pre-wired resistor which is included with this flashing red LED must be limiting the current draw to 20 mA in accordance with load specifications. Let’s assume that my target current for this installation is 8 mA. Therefore, if a second resistor (1K5) is added in series with the already pre-wired resistor, wouldn’t this suffice (12-volts/.008 ampere = 1500 ohms)?
Would the resultant voltage drop provide a sufficient buffer to accommodate any potential spikes in this 12-volt DC (car battery) circuit?   Can the voltage reduction actually be calculated? What about a safe power rating (watts) for the added resistor?
Thanks again…
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: September 19, 2009 at 6:29 AM / IP Logged  

If you are already limiting the current to 20mA at 12vdc then you can calclate they are currently using a ~600 ohm resistor.  To drop it to 8mA you are correct, you would need 1500 ohms.  However, since you already have 600 you would only need to add 900 ohms to limit the current.

You can buy a selection of resistors, or just grab a potentiometer and dial in the brightness you want, then measure the resistance going through the pot.  You can then purchase the correct resistor (or just leave the pot inline).

Dropping down to 5vdc won't have an effect on the brightness of the LED as long as the resistor is sourced accordingly.  An LED will be the sam brightness at 12vdc and 20mA as it would be at 5vdc and 20mA.  Remember, most LEDs work in the 1.2-3.2vdc range.  The only difference  between 5 and 12vdc is the size of the resistor needed.

By adding a second resistor you really arn't limiting voltage, you are limiting current.  With the LED being a discreet device it will handle the "voltage regulation" internally (just like a transistor).  So, if you size your resistor to limit the current to 8mA and the max is 20mA you would need 30vdc before you surpassed your 20mA max current limit.

Kevin Pierson

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