Remote Starter Trouble

I purchased the ultrastart 2500M remote starter & alarm for my 97 Accord M/T.

But now, I'm having trouble installing it.

1. My car manual label the five ignition wires as: BAT, ST, IG1, IG2, ACC.

    But actually, the IG2 is controlling heater & A/C, while the ACC is controlling  the stereo & ciggarette lighter.

    Does that mean, IG2 is Acc/Heater, and ACC is second acc in the remote  starter's view?

    Or IG2 as Acc, and Acc as second IG?

    Or I just connect wires based on Honda's manual label? ie. IG2 as second IG and ACC as Acc?

    Actually I tried the first and third approach. Both can not work. I only connect some necessary input, except the door trigger ( I think not connected means no door opened), also I connected all ignition wires and park light output, I started the car and made the reservation mode, then the car can stay running but can never stop. I could not stop it with remote but I'm sure the remote works fine for door lock/unlock. After I stop the car with a brake touch, I can not remote start the car and the flashing light tell me the car is not in reservation mode. So, what's the problem? Is it because of the Ignition wires error or because of the absense of door trigger input (I'm searching that wire so far)?

2. The ultrastart 2500 has "(+) Disconnect / Start trigger" input at the bottom of the wiring diagram. The manual says it's for (+) disconnect or instant start trigger. I wonder what that means? Which car wire should I give to this input?

• BAT---- WHITE
• ST----- BLACK/ WHITE
• IG1----BLACK / YELLOW
• IG2----- NOT USED
• ACC----- YELLOW

The wire colors for the car are listed above. Connect the appropriate colors from the RS unit to these colors and you should be able to have it working. Did you wire in your brake input for the RS unit. This is a very important wire in the programming sequence.

Yes. I connected the wire this way except that I connected my remote starter's second accessory to the WHITE/ BLACK wire of my car (Honda called this wire ACC), which I think won't matter much.

And I did connect the brake wire and park brake wire.

Here's what I've done so far:

•     Starter Ouput -> car start wire
•     Heater Output -> car IG2 wire which supply power for heater and A/C
•     2 Power Input <- car power wire (+12V)
•     IG1 output -> car IG1 wire
•     Selectable output (set to ACC2) -> car ACC wire which powers stereo, ciggartte ... (btw, I have no ABS, so no trouble here)
•     Ground <- car ground
•     Brake <- correctly connected to brake switch and can work
•     park light output -> car park light, correctly connected and can work
•     tach <- car tach, correct and can work
•     park brake <- car park brake

SO, what I missed is the HOOD PIN input and DOOR PIN input. I thought no connection of these two input means hood always closed and doors never opened.

Is it the door pin that caused my trouble? After turn off the key, the engine keep running for ever until I press brake once... Is the unit waiting for me to open the door and then close it (means I have left the car) and then the unit will be willing to shut down the engine???

BTW, can you tell me the meaning and usage of the "(+)disconnect/start trigger" wire since it's an input to the unit.

By the way, I can I make a remote starter clutch bypass for Hond Accord, if I want bypass when remote starter while keeping the clutch switch not bypassed when starting with key?

And another question.

There are two power input for the Ultrastart 2500M remote starter.

I want to figure out which one carries the start/ignition current and which one carries the accessory(heater,light,siren...) current. I need to figure this out for some application to keep the load within the fuse allowance.

• Attach the door trigger wire and the hood pin switch for programming issues.
• There are two switches on the Honda manual vehicles. Grab the PINK wire on the lower switch and attach this to the STARTER output of the RS unit.
• The WHITE wire on the ignition harness will have sufficient current for both power wires on the RS unit.

I see.  Thank you!

My connection works today. I only added the door pin. Now it can remote start the car if I am depressing the clutch padle manually. Also, I tried the door lock/unlock, and the keyless functions well.

Now, what's left is to design and connect a clutch bypass curcuit, and to hook the hood pin and siren.

Jeff, could you tell me the exact load of the two power input of the RS unit? I just have to know it, because when I design the clutch bypass, I use the start output of the RS unit to control two relays, one connecting car's BAT and ST,  the other bypassing the clutch switch. But connecting the BAT and ST directly is not safe and may overload the car BAT wire (fuse) because the car BAT already carries all loads comsumed by the RS unit. I don't want to blow the main power fuse, so I want not to use car BAT directly, instead, I plan to use one of the Power wire of the RS unit, which has it's own 30A sub-fuse.  So, e.g., if the 1st Power input is designed to power the ST current, then I can safely use that wire to connect to the ST via my own relay.

I know there maybe some other way doing clutch bypass. But I studied my car manual carefully and my design above is the most graceful one so far. So I do want to know which power input of the RS unit is designed for powering ST (and/or IG)? such that I can connect it directly to car ST via relay.

ALSO, COULD YOU TELL ME THE USAGE OF THE "(+)DISCONNECT/START TRIGGER" INPUT IN ULTRASTART 2500?

It's a very good remote starter system, though the built-in alarm is just basic. Now everything works perfect for me --- remote start, keyless, alarm... / Well, it's a hard time when I install the system all by myself.