Radar detectors

The problem with the feedback is a tough one to solve. The feedback is being caused by the internal oscilattor circuits in each unit detecting the other. The oscillator circuits are internal comparator devices that are used to compare an external signal to its internal signal. Any differences between the two activates your warning. The other detector is detecting that oscillator's signal, causing the false alarm.

The only real way to isolate the two detectors are to mount them in seperate locations, seperated by some metal sheild. But that is impractical and unsafe, as well as being almost physically impossible.

I have the Whistler 930ST w/VG2 and have been tremendously successful with it. (However, even the best radar detector can't protect you if they wait for you to get within range and they pull the trigger.......like late at night on a lonely stretch of road and they are sitting in the dark, or coming at you. I've been had twice that way.)

My suggestion is to mount just one right next to your rearview mirror. Get it up as high a possible, but make sure the little "red-eye" on the top can still "see" out the rear window. That is for the lazer-type radar guns that they point at your license plate. This type of radar can pick you out of a thousand cars, but most are still using the X & K band radar guns.

Radar Theory - The amount of time it takes the signal when it leaves the gun, bounces off of your vehicle and returns to the gun, synced with the speed of the cop's vehicle, gives you the "offender's" vehicle speed. It is known as the Doppler Effect. But knowing this theory will have little effect on being able to use your radar detaector more effectively. It will work best if it the "line of sight" has the best view. The higher its mounted, the better the view. Plus most windshields are tinted at the top, so your detector is difficult to see from the outside, which helps to keep someone from wanting your detector more than you do.