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Starter wire - 96 Intrepid


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BrianWR 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 8:16 PM / IP Logged  

I'm attempting a remote starter install on my '96 Intrepid and came across a problem. I tried tapping the Red IGN wire but had too small a tap. I stopped the install at that point until I could get a larger tap (that was the only wire I touched). Now, the car will sometimes not crank on the first attempt when cold. If I get off the key and then turn it on again, it cranks ... once or twice it has cranked slowly. When warm it always works, no problem.

I'm thinking I broke a couple of strands in the wire and it has a greater resistance now. Make sense? My solution now is to cut the wire and use a wire nut to connect the two pieces together along with the remote starter's wire. Stupid question, but will a wire nut cause an issue here? I may need to add a section of wire to get enough room to connect everything ... will an extra piece (same gauge) and 2 wire nuts affect anything?

Thanks!

ammar 
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Joined: December 23, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: December 27, 2002 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged  
If the car starts with no problem when it's warm there shouldn't be a problem, most car especially when cold require another attempt and will sometimes turnover slowing.
Velocity Motors 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: December 28, 2002 at 8:41 AM / IP Logged  
If there are broken strands in the wire, it will not affect the performance of the starter. If this bothers you , you can always solder the section of the wire with the broken starnds together. My first suggestions would be to look at the battery and alternator. Get these two checked out for possible problems and if any of the two need to be replaced, then do so. The starter is only as reliable as the battery and charging system, so get these checked out before going any farther and extending wires that do not need to be.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
brianr 
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Joined: November 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 29, 2002 at 12:31 PM / IP Logged  

The car was working fine before I tapped the wire. The battery and charging system are definitely good. The lights work always, the starter turns over strongly when it does finally turn over. It's just that once in a while it won't attempt to turn over when really cold. A second turn on the key will get it cranking and it cranks strong. I was very deliberate in what I worked on so it really can't be anything but that wire. If I cut that wire and add a piece, will I have a problem? I think it's the best choice I have to verify a good connection with the remote starter and cut out the questionable section.

Also, I was planning to tap that wire for both 12v lines on the remote starter (Innotek). Is this OK or do I really need to run one right from the battery?

Thanks for all the help!

Brian

Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: December 30, 2002 at 9:23 AM / IP Logged  
Might as well try to add that piece in , but I don't think it will make a difference at all, but I heard stranger things. As far as tapping into this wire for both 12 volts, you can as long as the Innotek doesn't require a separate constant conncetion for both wires.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
BrianWR 
Member - Posts: 4
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Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 04, 2003 at 9:13 AM / IP Logged  

OK. I think I'm all set except for one boneheaded mistake. I connected the ACC wire to a RED / white wire in the Intrepid wiring harness (which wouldn't have been right anyway). Now the Check engine light is on. I thought this was the IGN2 wire but now I'm not sure (maybe the auto shutdown relay wire?). It was in the bundle on the column.

The errors are 12 (problem with the battery connection. dirct battery input to controller disconnected in the last 50 key-on cycles) 42 (autoshutdown relay control circuit indicates an open or shorted circuit condition) and 66 (PCM is not receiving CCD Bus signals.)

Can anyone point me in the right direction here?

Thanks!

BrianWR 
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Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 04, 2003 at 10:10 AM / IP Logged  
Nevermind. A battery disconnect cleared the codes and they didn't come back. Sorry for the wasted bandwidth!
BrianWR 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 11, 2003 at 2:29 PM / IP Logged  

Actually, the check engine light did come back. The installer I bought this from told me that I needed to power up my Intrepid's IGN2 wire to make the light go away. He said to just connect the remote starter's IGN wire to the IGN2 wire (it's already connected to the Intrepid's IGN1 wire ).

I did this and the car wouldn't shut off. I had to disconnect the wires to make it stop! After speaking with the installer again, he says I now need a relay. I'm a little uncomfortable with his "try it and see what happens" approach. He's telling me to use a negative brake wire from the remote starter connected to the relay along with my IGN2 wire.

Has anyone else dealt with this? Does the relay make sense??

Thanks!

Velocity Motors 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2003 at 5:34 PM / IP Logged  

Double check your connections to the wiring diagram that is below. You will need a relay for the 2nd ignition and if applicable the 3rd ignition as well.

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |

|              12V|pink/black,red (20A)|+  |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|yellow/gold dots    |+  |ignition harness            |
|         IGNITION|dk. blue/gold dots  |+  |ignition harness            |
|  SECOND IGNITION|RED / wht/gold dots   |+  |ignition harness            |
|   THIRD IGNITION|*3                  |   |                            |
|        ACCESSORY|BLACK/ orange        |+  |ignition harness            |
|       POWER LOCK|ORANGE / white *1     |+  |wht plug back of fuse panel |
|     POWER UNLOCK|pink/purple *1      |+  |wht plug back of fuse panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|BLACK / YELLOW        |   |driver kick panel           |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|                    |   |                            |
|       HEADLIGHTS|green               |+  |headlight switch            |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|tan & tan/red *2    |-  |driver kick panel           |
|  TRUNK/HATCH PIN|BROWN / black         |-  |driver kick panel           |
|         HOOD PIN|                    |   |                            |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|BLACK/ white         |+  |at switch                   |
|  FCTRY ALARM ARM|lock                |   |                            |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|lt.GREEN/ orange 20ga|-  |either kick                 |
|       TACHOMETER|red, white, or black|   |at coil pack                |
|       BRAKE WIRE|white               |+  |at brake switch             |
|     HORN TRIGGER|BLACK/ red           |-  |relay in fuse panel         |
|           WIPERS|pink                |+  |3 wire plug near wiper motor|
|  LF WINDOW UP/DN|lt.blu/gld - wht/gld|A  |in driver door              |
|  RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/wht - pur/wht   |A  |in driver door or dkp       |
|  LR WINDOW UP/DN|blu/wht - RED / blk   |A  |in driver door or dkp       |
|  RR WINDOW UP/DN|gry/blk - grn/wht   |A  |in driver door or dkp       |

Notes:

*1 Also find same colors in harness to right of glove box by passenger kick panel.  *2 Tan gets drivers door, tan/red gets pass. doors. Tap both wires and diode isolate.  *3 The SRS (air bag) warning light may come on after remote started, after the key is inserted and the remote start shut down with the brake. If this happens, find an 18ga (NOT 12ga) RED / white in the ignition harness. Power it as an Ign 3 with an additional relay.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
brianr 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 11, 2003 at 6:58 PM / IP Logged  

I do have it hooked up as described in the post above.I'm dealing with the RED / white IGN2 wire on the Intrepid, but the Innotek doesn't have an IGN2 wire. That's where the relay is supposed to come in. He is suggesting I use the brake wire from the Innotek to somehow keep IGN1 and IGN2 separate. I don't understand how this would work. If I turn off the remote start via the remote, the brake wire doesn't come into play, right?

Idon't understand relays very well so I'm willing to wire it up but as I mentioned, i don't like to keep on trying until I get it right. I'd rather understand it and know that I'm doing it correctly. What is this relay supposed to accomplish??

Thanks

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