I think your sub is going to be under powered. Even if they are bridgable, you will still only be getting about 130 watts from the JBL, and 76 from the MTX. And running 1 sub from 2 amps is not a good idea. You can blow the sub and amps, then you're out even more money! You might want to think about getting a different amp for the sub (one that is rated at apx 200 watts RMS to match the sub), and using the other 2 for your 4 triaxial speakers (1 amp for the front 2, and 1 for the rear 2). Even though the JBL amp has a higher RMS rating than the speakers, you can turn down the gains and you should be fine.
Fuse the power wire 6 inches from the battery, and run it through the firewall to the distribution block. It's easiest to use an existing gromlet in the firewall, but you may have to drill a new hole. Either way, make sure the wire is protected by a rubber gromlet. Nothing is worse than having a power wire get the sheathing stripped off and shorting out against the firewall. Well, unless your a pyromaniac!
Run the capacitor off of one of the outputs from the distribution block, and use the other outputs for the amps. Make sure the cap is within 18 inches (wire length) from the amp(s), and the ground is within 3 feet (connected to bare metal on the frame).
The Line Level Converter gets installed behind the headunit, connected to the speaker outputs from the headunit. I'm not familiar with the amps you mentioned, but I'm assuming they have "speaker level" inputs? If you use the amps like I mentioned, you can cut the factory speaker wires after the converter, then run new wires from the amps to the speakers. If you are relying on the headunit to power the speakers instead, then don't cut the wires! If you have the time and money, you should replace the speaker wires anyway. Factory wires are cheap, and replacing them with 16 - 14 gauge speaker wire would be a plus in the long run.
You can run the ground for the amp(s) to the same place that you grounded the capacitor. This is a good idea to follow, as it helps prevent ground loops and keeps noise out of the system.
The amp(s) will require a "remote line". Most factory headunits don't have a remote output, so you can hook it up to the power antenna wire instead. If that doesn't work, try another switched 12volt source from the wiring harness (search this site for more info on doing that).
Hope this helped
Make sure to seperate your power wire from the speaker wires going to the amp(s). Run them down opposite sides of the car. You can get signal interference otherwise.
Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
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