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2004 chrysler crossfire, dvd, bluetooth


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npisciotta82 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: May 19, 2009
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: May 19, 2009 at 9:03 PM / IP Logged  
i do occasional installs on the side for guys i work with (approx. 400 people work in my plant) and this is the first time I am truely "stuck."  I dont have a problem installing any of the components at all. my problem is a 2004 chrysler crossfire...I dont have the first clue about getting under the carpet on this.  i am adding a dvd player with bluetooth, i am also using an oem interface to retain the factory infinity amp and speakers, running a 4 ga amp kit, hooking it up to a 1000rms amp and 12" kicker L7.  on every install i've done up to this point I usually go down the sides of the car and a plastic trim piece pops off.  this car is really weird.  i thought about going right down the middle through the console thing and there are no visible screws, snaps, clips, etc.  and to get the factory deck out... not sure. anybody who has worked on one of these, please let me know. thank you.  I wish this was a chevy, ford, or dodge truck right now...LOL
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,709
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: May 19, 2009 at 9:17 PM / IP Logged  
I have no help for you but I can tell you why you are having so much trouble with that vehicle.  It is a Mercedes.
npisciotta82 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: May 19, 2009
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: May 19, 2009 at 11:27 PM / IP Logged  

i got the driver seat out, the door sill plate, driver kick panel...can pull the carpet up and underneath it is not possible to run my wires because there are structural braces that run side to side in two places, the only way would be to drill holes and run gromets...still think down the console is the best way.  will work on it more tomorrow.  on  the factory deck i noticed two slots that i think will release the deck, they are in an unusual position, on the bottom corners, a standard deck removal tool will not work, so i will have to modify them...keep trying.

npisciotta82 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: May 19, 2009
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: June 06, 2009 at 5:44 AM / IP Logged  
I ended up finishing it three days later...wasn't as bad as I initially thought.  to get the deck out you have to grind down the din removal tools until they fit and find an allen wrench that will fit inside cd slot.  first practice with the din tools and stick them in about 2 inches and you will feel the spring loaded latches, you dont have to baby it and you cant hurt it (found this out after i got it out)...while you have both sides depressed to the inside, have someone stick the allen wrench through the slot and rotate it up to grab the heavy plastic frame (not down) and they can gently slide it out... i did this by myself while applying constant pull to the allen wrench and popping one side at a time.  to run the amp kit you must remove the battery and the tray it sits on.  below that there is a factory wire rubber thing that has little nipples you yank off to run wire through. be careful of the brown hose running through it because it is part of the airbags.  if running large gauge wire, pull off two nipples and cut between them so 4 or 8 gauge will fit.  when you pull the seats out use a six-sided 3/8" socket....the bolts are weird looking(look like a jacked up male  t-45) and you would think you need a special tool but you dont because that fits it perfect.  carpet is a pain to pull up, has about 4 inches of tempurpedic looking foam glued to it and cant completely remove without messing with center console so dont be afraid to pull it up.  there is a channel deep inside to run wires, but there are approx. 30 wires/airbag sensor hoses running through it so be careful.  to get through the rear wall you have to pop off the rear speaker grill (one came off easy and i split the other one...first piece i broke in approx. 20 vehicles) that piece was 25 to replace so be careful.  THE GAS TANK SITS RIGHT BEHIND THAT WALL SO IF YOU DECIDE TO MOUNT AN AMPRACK IN THE BACK DO NOT SECURE IT DIRECTLY TO THAT BACK WALL.  you have to pull up the carpet and glue MDF to the aluminum shell that protects the gas tank and then screw into the MDF.  to finish getting the wire to the back you have to take apart the bottom part of that side and you a tapefish to get it through the wall through the hole in the corner.  I have this car figured out now, but i started the post hoping to have some foresight so i didnt have to spend so much damn time messing with it.  hopefully this will help someone.  bye the way if you are adding an aftermarket receiver and maintain the factory amp then you have to get this or something similar or from what i hear it will sound like ass.   http://www.oemautosound.com/pc-598-148-oem-interface-differential-converters-universal-headunit.aspx .  i

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