how should i wire this up?

I have: Kenwood KAC-746 4 channel amp         2 factory 6.5" door speakers (Toyota Yaris)         2 Kicker KS-13 tweeters with crossovers         8" sub in sealed box with coil in-line         No head unit...I'm using a direct-to-amplifier cable from ipodcarpros.com from my iphone to the amp. Note that the crossovers supplied with the Kicker tweeters do not have terminals to connect any other speakers. The ipod cable has two RCA outputs, and I used splitters to make 4 outputs to connect to the amp. I ran new speaker wire directly to the factory door speakers and connected them to "amplifier B" outputs on the Kenwood amp. I have the 8" sub bridged on "amplifier A". Is this OK so far? I'm trying to figure out how to connect the tweeters. Can I go in parallel with the door speakers, or will this change the crossover point? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ditch the Y adapters and slide the input select switch to A. Remove the coil from the woofer line. What is the impedance of the woofer? Connect the amp to the door speakers and to the tweeters, with the tweeter crossover installed between the amp and the tweeters.

Ok I'll get rid of the y-adapters and the woofer coil. The woofer is 4ohm. I decided to order some crossovers that will split the signal and send 4.5KHZ-20KHZ to the tweeters and 500HZ-3.5KHZ to the door speakers.

crgf1k wrote: Ok I'll get rid of the y-adapters and the woofer coil. The woofer is 4ohm. I decided to order some crossovers that will split the signal and send 4.5KHZ-20KHZ to the tweeters and 500HZ-3.5KHZ to the door speakers.

That's not a good plan as it leaves a 1KHz "hole" in a critical band of 3.5 to 4.5KHz. Plus if it really includes a 500Hz high-pass for the woofer, that means the majority of the music spectrum (below 500Hz) is either lost or you'll be relying on the sub for that band, which is also a very bad idea. I suggest get rid of the factory door speakers and put those tweeters you already have in a box. Purchase a component set with a 6.5" woofer and tweeter and a crossover designed for the set. Use this for your front mains powered from two channels of your amp. Support the12volt.com

Alright thanks for the info. I'm on a really tight budget, and I'm just trying to make it so I can hear talk radio and podcasts...but I see what you mean about the problem with those crossovers I ordered. The only reason I ordered them is to split the signal...I don't know if it's ok to connect the crossovers that came with the tweeters in parallel (or series?) with my current door speakers. Is this worth a try, or will I wreck the amp...or will the high pass frequency go super high because of the reduction in resistance? I'd like to try to make the most of what I have because of my budget. Thanks!

Parallel the tweeters with your door speakers. With the crossover in series with the tweeters.

i am an idiot wrote: Parallel the tweeters with your door speakers. With the crossover in series with the tweeters.

Yep.Support the12volt.com

I'm not sure I understand...the "series" part is throwing me off here. So the two wires on the input side of the crossover get connected in parallel to the pos & neg that the speaker is already connected to, then the tweeter gets connected to the positive and negative outputs of the crossover?

crgf1k wrote: I'm not sure I understand...the "series" part is throwing me off here. So the two wires on the input side of the crossover get connected in parallel to the pos & neg that the speaker is already connected to, then the tweeter gets connected to the positive and negative outputs of the crossover?

If the Xover has inputs and outputs, yes.Support the12volt.com

So I installed the tweeters in the upper doors pointing at the occupants, and they sound great. I can hear the voices much better. I went to take the coil out of the box and it wasn't there...I could've sworn I put it in there 15 years ago when I built the box. I removed the splitters on the RCAs and tried it, but then I realized I wouldn't have the front/rear adjustment that I had before by adjusting the input sensitivity on amps A&B...so I put them back in. Thanks again