Let me pick your brain

Hello all.

I am new here. I was into car audio almost 10 years ago, and recently got interested in it again. Here are my ramblings, post your thoughts:

I recently picked up a '00 Mustang GT 5-spd. This car does not have the "premium sound" option (called Mach 460 in the Mustang). This is the worst sounding factory system I have heard on a '99+ vehicle. This is the reason I am back into car audio. So far I purchased a set of Polk EX 6x8s for the doors (I hate 2-channel music to come from behind me), but found that the previous owner of the car glued the door pannels to the doors. I just installed the Polks into the rear deck and faded everything to the rear. Oh well.

Where I am at now: I need some low frequency reinforcement. I drag race at the local track, so I do not want a system that will weigh me down. Also I want to keep what limited trunk space I have, and not remove my spare tire. This all lead me to consider a free-air install of a 10" sub in my rear deck. It would require some heavy modification of the rear deck (making a baffle, reinforcing it, etc.) but is attractive from a convenience perspective.

The thing is, I have never heard a free-air installation, personally. Anyone else? You think 150 watt RMS into a free-air 10" sub rated for 175 RMS would give me enough "bump"? I'm not looking for much. I know that a 10" sub in a typical sealed enclosure with 150 RMS would be more than enough. Like I said, tho. Never heard a free-air installation before. Worst case, I guess I would be willing to do it, then redo it if I don't like it. That would suck, tho.

For completeness (I do seem to be into that, right?) here is the system I have spec'd for this application:

Amp - Rockford Fosgate Punch 301X @ 40x2 + 150x1 all @ 4 ohms. This would be run by the included high level inputs from the rear channel outputs of the factory system. Included 120hz HP and 80hz LP would be used on the appropriate channels. Cost new: $152 - shipped

Speakers - Polk EX full range (6x8s) which I already have; Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 10" sub (single 4ohm) rated to handle 175 RMS in free-air application by the manufacturer. Cost new: $130 - shipped.

Wiring - Any distribution block that will handle 0/1 gauge power wire from the engine compartment (keep all voltage loss to an absolute minimum) and output 8 gauge to the amp (the max the amp will allow). Block + wire cost new: ~$70 - local.

So... what does everyone think? What might you do in my situation? Keep in mind that I have have kept my solution to about $350 for everything involved (well, minor building material cost of ~$30 not included) and all the labor is my own.

Let me know if you need more info. lol

Thanks

i would say a single low power 10" sub. or a pair of 8's. all in a truck box.

these are alot smaller and dont add alot of weight.