two 10s or a 15?

what are the advantages or disadvantages of having say two 10s or a single larger 15? sound quality? or bass response?

tens will be tighter cleaner bass. the 15 will hit the lower notes better but has more "flabby" slower response and not do as well on the "higher" notes. just my opinion. get a pair of tens or 12's if you wont have a mid-bass sub to go with the 15Quad L Handyman services

space- a 15 will require a lot, you'll have more wiring options (1,2,4 ohms) with 2 subs, deeper bass with 15" just a few things to think aboutowner of

Motion Marine & Car Audio

the florida keys

cool, i think ill keep my 10s, was just trying to find a way to make a little more trunk space with a single sub, but in the end i dont think its going to be worth it, ill just have to relocate my amp since i put it in a bad place for space saving! thanks guys

...and another recent thread that addresses these differences can be seen here.Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Ketel22 wrote: tens will be tighter cleaner bass. the 15 will hit the lower notes better but has more "flabby" slower response and not do as well on the "higher" notes. just my opinion. get a pair of tens or 12's if you wont have a mid-bass sub to go with the 15

Actually that's another one of those audio myths.  "Woofer speed" isn't effected by mass, but inductance.  Read this link to see why this is true: http://www.adireaudio.com/tech_papers/woofer_speed.htm

Steven Kephart

Adire Audio

Thank you Steven! Good info! I am glad to see there is somebody out there who can explain things WAY better than I can! Also, the 10's can go EVERY BIT as deep as the 15, and depending on the configuration of the enclosure, possibly deeper. I had an Eclipse Ti 10 inch driver that played LOWER (noticeably) on it's optimum box than the Ti 12 I presently have. I had a friend of mine at Harman, (in Northridge) Klippel both of the drivers, and we designed optimum enclosures for both of them, and the 12 may have more overall OUTPUT, but the 10 had better EXTENSION. It all depends on how the driver is built. I would also like to address this "break-in" question that keeps coming up... It is not an engine, there are no friction parts that must be rubbed gently together until they mesh correctly... PLAY IT LIKE YER GONNA PLAY IT, every day of it's life... You ain't gonna hurt it, just 'cause it's "new"! I have never broken in a SINGLE driver my entire life, and no ill has ever befallen me. If there IS any break in, it will only loosen the suspension a little, and maybe give you a little different frequency response, but if this is the case, and you do not want that change, BREAK IT IN, (with your sine wave generator set for the specified Fs of the driver) OUTSIDE OF ANY ENCLOSURE, WITH LOW POWER, (say 10-15 watts, but in no case beyond the linear capabilities of the driver, and you'll hear it when you get to that point) for 24 hours, then test it, and build your enclosure based on THOSE numbers. OK, enough ranting... off to bed with haemphyst... It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

...but this is why I mentioned the break-in OUTSIDE of an enclosure, before you test it and build the enclosure for it. If you build an enclosure for a driver, pull the driver from the carton, and install it, you are likely going to be disappointed in the response AFTER the suspension loosens up. I also said I never break in a driver, but this is a bit of a mis-statement. I do not break-in a driver after the installation, but before, using the above mentioned method. If you build the enclosure, pull the driver from the package and install it, whether you break it in gently or WFO, it does not matter... the driver/box alignment will be wrong after the break-in period. Basically, all I am saying is "Because the box can't change, but the driver will, if you got a box/driver combo installed, forget the break-in, cause it ain't gonna matter, unless you build another box." Steven, (have I met you at CES?) I am not certain, but I was thinking that that warning is for break-in outside of an enclosure, not in the box after the install. Also, (and PLEASE do not think I am trying to steal your thunder, I am NOT!) I have been thinking about adjustable Q on drivers for years... actually more along the lines of "passive post-amplification equalization". By driving a single VC in a DVC driver with an amp, and measuring its' response in an enclosure, you can build a semi-adjustable passive tuning circuit hung off the other voice coil, to adjust the damping of the driver selectively, thus, effectively equalizing the response of the driver IN THAT enclosure.   ...it was a pipe dream, and I never sat down to do it... (sounds like MANY of my projects...) Honestly, I like the idea of a simple resistor... much easier to adjust, and no funky calculations, either... but, by selectively EQing the resistance at X frequency, you could adjust the OUTPUT of the driver at just X frequency, where a resistor adjusts the output at all frequencies being fed to the driver, by applying broad-band damping, and attenuation (Qts adjustment). As an example of my idea, if you have a box/driver alignment with a 6dB hump at 80Hz (blech! sounds like many car stereos today, doesn't it?), by using an RLC network, you can say "this is a lower resistance at 80Hz, therefore the output from the driver at 80Hz will be down by Y dB", but attenuated Y/2 at 40 or 160Hz. Also, an RLC network will give a nice notching ability, and you can build the notch Q right into the network... it is simply a bandpass passive crossover, placed on the second terminals of a DVC woofer. Flexibility come with the various alignments available... 6, 12, 18, 24 dB slopes with Butterworth, Zobel, etc. functions available. A passive circuit will apply selective resistance to the secondary VC, and thusly, apply selective passive damping i.e. equalization. At least it all works on paper! LOL... And I don't want to see Adire using this idea witout (at a minimum) proper credit! Thanks for reading this, for those of you that bothered with the whole thing. I know I do go on, but I hope I get my point across effectively.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."