98 Accord stereo issues

Hi,

I sure hope someone knows the answer to this one...

I installed a new head unit and speakers (doors and rear) last weekend, and although the stereo is working great, I now have other electrical problems.  We did not connect the Illumi and Illumi Control wires to anything (probably the cause of first problem).

So, problem 1:  My dashboard illumination lights are not exactly working, that is, my speedometer area is not lighting up when my lights are on, but other controls (turn signal, gear indicator, odometer) are lit up when my head lights are NOT on.  I'm guessing I need to hook up Illumi Control (Dimmer?) to something, not sure what, and not sure if that line needs a load to replace the factory stereo's load somehow.

Problem 2:  Three out of four of my power windows are no longer functional, just the driver's window and my after-factory sun roof work.  My mirrors are working too, and the windows do not work from any of their local controls.

I have verified all of the fuses that I can find, in the fuse boxes by each door and under the hood (3 total).  I'm not sure what else to try at this point and would really appreciate any advice.

Thank you,

RJS

1.  You must have blown either the parking lights or dash illumination fuse.... if the parking lights work, you know that fuse is good...... find the dash illumination which is probalby 5 amps or 7.5 amps, and doubloe-check it.  Make sure the dash dimmer knob is properly adjusted.  If you disassembled the dash dimmer during your installation, remove the panel again and make sure you haven't forgotten to plug it in.

2.  Move the window lock-out switch on the driver's door to the other position.

Criminey, I'm embarrassed about the windows -- the switch was the trick.  I was able to test that while at work, but I'll have to wait until later to check the fuses again.  Given that you were on-target with the windows I'm betting you're right about the fuse and I just didn't notice it.  I'm just hoping it's not something that requires replacing a bulb in the dash.

Thanks a ton for the help, I'll be sure to let you know when all is well.

Well, unfortunately I cannot find a bad fuse anywhere.  I've done sight-checks and then started replacing and old fuse with a new fuse one at a time to no avail.  If anyone knows of a link to fuse box layout diagrams that would be awesome because the driver side fuse box does not match the diagram on the fuse box cover at all.

Thank you very much for reading thru these posts and your help, I really appreciate it.

Sounds like you need to connect the two unused illumination leads together that you did not use. To verify this, reconnect the factory head unit to the factory harness and check your lights. If they work, use your meter on each of the leads you did not use when you connected your new head unit, then connect them accordingly when you reconnect your new head unit. 

Interesting. slyfox, I have a hyundai elantra '02, and just put in a new Alpine head unit about 2 months ago, and have had no problem. I should hope though that the elantra and the sonata's gear differs a little, as the price tends to .

One other possiblity is what the admin suggested. It may be looking for a circuit to be made between the wire and the control circuit, since the control circuit's setting determines how much power goes down the illumination wire (although it seems like the system is over-complicated then).

GL with everything, and keep me posted (haha, what a punny guy)

Often, the owner's manual will contain a complete list of the items affected by each fuse. Also, on the driver's fuse panel, when you look at the fuses themselves, and you look at the "map" on the back of the fuse box door......try turning the map sideways or upside down and see if it makes any more sense then.

I'm hesitant to question what the12volt says, since he has such an excellent site....but I wouldn't tie the two unused wires together, at least without a good reason. On some cars, you'll have a positive illumination wire and a negative dimmer wire.....tying them together = instant short circuit. In any event, though, I've never needed to tie these wires together, and I've done dozens, maybe hundreds of Accord radio installs.

Hi, I have a 2001 Acura TL and its doing the same thing you discribed.  The dash light does not come on any more after I try puting in my deck.  The reason for my car is I accidently tap the the power and another power together, so that shorted it.  I am still searching for a way to fix it.  If someone can email me or post it, that would be great. 

Thanks.

Hello All and thanks for your replies, I really appreciate it.

Here's the latest, and no, it's not solved yet, but I haven't been online checking your suggestions for 2 days.  Oh, and there really isn't a way to "go back" with the original head unit without a *lot* of work -- the original harness was cut off because we didn't think we had an adapter for it.  Reconnecting the harness wires would be really difficult, if not impossible now.  :(

I contacted my original dealer for some ideas on the fusebox and he said the label is bad, but is supposed to be correct.  I don't get it...it's "identical" to the other label.  He suggested I go to a nearer dealer and see if they'll let me make copies of some key pages from their trouble shooting and general manuals.  I tracked down seven pages with circuit diagrams involving both the instrumentation lighting and the audio system.  I'm pretty grateful they took the time to help me out...

So, armed with the diagrams I tried connecting the wires, and discovered no difference at all.  I have one titled "Lights Brightness Control" (sorry, no page number visible).  It shows the dimmer knob on it's own circuit to the multiplex control unit (Driver's). Then another circuit coming thru from the combo light switch joining up with a separate multiplexor circuit (RED / black) to both the guage lights (4 bulbs) and a list of other lights (including the audio unit, clock, gear position, cruise main switch, hazard switch light, and heater control panel light. 

On a more detailed diagram, it looks like there are 6 bulbs in the cluster that are in series, but connected in parallel to a stabalizing circuit, gear position indicator and lcd back light.  I didn't think I'd need more details on the multiplexor but what I do have shows a dedicated circuit to the dimmer and power going to the heater control panel, I think from there to the rest of the lights in parallel with the instrument cluster grouped and finally back to the multiplexor.  (criminey, a picture really is worth a thousand words cuz I'm sure doing a poor job of this).  The guage assembly lights part of the diagram are enclosed together as well with a single power line coming in.  However, since the clock and hazard switch lights are in parallel with this, and also are not on when I expect them to be, perhaps the problem is more up-stream? 

I checked the fuses figuring I might have blown one by now, but nope.  I even picked up a tester and checked every one of them to be sure they really were ok still.

Now that I have removed those fuses from this, perhaps something's up with the "stabilizing power circuit" in-line somewhere.  Is it possible that the lighting elements are tied together when the parking / head lights are on in a way that would cause a single bulb to deaden the circuit?   The gear indicator, odometer, clock and green ventilation indicators are lit up.  When I put on the headlights, they all go out except the ventilation indicators (AC on/off, vent position) which dim signficantly, but are somewhat illuminated (even with the radio powered off to be sure it wasn't providing some kind of backlight).

I'm at the point now where I want to check the guage lights, but discovered that removing the cluster is difficult given that the steering column cover keeps me from completely removing the trim around the cluster. 

Oh, and thanks for the owner's manual tip -- I found better diagrams than I thought I had a few pages after where the index pointed me -- serves me right for not leafing thru the thing page by page.

It also sounds to me like I should disconnect the two wires now that it hasn't made a difference to avoid causing a short-circuit once the problem is really resolved.  And I'm starting to think that the multiplexor is fine, otherwise I don't think most of the components would light correctly.  I'm way outside of my bailiwick though...

As usual, any and all suggestions are welcome.