dual s15l7 box for samuelsteven

Your box is 6 cubic feet internal With a 5’x5” port 1.5” long Use the kicker amp Don’t run this amp below 2 ohms (it will have an ill effect on this design) Set your Low Pass Xover at 70Hz Set your Subsonic Filter to 35Hz Set your bass boost at half Set your gain to a volume of your taste Make sure that your box ends up with bracing inside (1”x2” Poplar struts from the face to the back works great). Make sure that the subs are mounted off to one corner of what ever side that you mount them to. And make sure that the subs them selves end up off to one side or corner of your trunk. Placing the subs near the center of the trunk might look good but you will have major acoustic cancellation. Measure twice and make sure that this box will fit in your trunk! If it wont you may have to build two boxes or reconfigure the design so that it will fit. As long as the internal volume stays the same it won’t affect the sound. This will be your final frequency response This graph shows how much your subs cones will have to move. If you do not set the subsonic filter correctly the subs will bottom out like crazy as well as demand too much from your amp. As far as sealed designs go for this sub, the output is considerably less and it would demand more amplifier power than you have. Good luck!

How do you measure these measurements with a measuring tape?

Im starting to think this measurement is a little off. By the diagram it looks as if the face of the box where the subs will mount is gonna be 15.15" wide., but the outside of the sub is almost 16", so how will that fit? Even if it barely worked, how strong would that be if its almost  the whole width that must be cut for the mounting hole? It wouldnt be strong at all. I mean the mounting hole must be cut 14.1" x 14.1". Thats just the monting hole, you still need to be able to screw to the wood and not have the subwoofer's lip sticking over the box.

The sub goes on the front, 35.73" x 22.08", that is more than enough to mount a 15" sub. The port goes on the same surface as the sub.Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Yea, but if i mount the subs there, my subs will have to be facing up in my trunk. the box wont fit that way in a trunk. Isnt that kind of awkward? The box will be wider tham it is deep?

Ive only got 17" tall to work with in the trunk

Okay then, since the face baffle that you need to work with isn't quite tall enough for your cutout, change the box dimensions a little so that it still comes out to the same cubic feet.  There is a box calculator directly over to the left margin of this page.Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

If you decide to keep the dimensions that I gave you (Nothing wrong with changing them as long as the box still comes out to 6 cubic feet internal) then the subs would be mounted on the panel labeled front, and it would end up facing up. Mount both subs all the way to one side of the box even though they take up almost the entire face. Both subs will share the same chamber. They will both act as one bigger sub. As for the port, the .125” parts are supposed to be made from ABS plastic. Sorry I forgot to mention that. I have a simpler solution for you though. Make a single MDF square 9”x9” and cut a 5”x5” square hole in the center of it. Then cut a 5”x5” square hole in the side panel of your box centered from top to bottom but only 3” from the side of your box that will end up closest to your tail lights. Glue your 9x9 square to the back side of the 5x5 hole you cut in your box. This will give you a single 5x5x1.5” port. I modeled this configuration up and you will get the same result. Or get creative and come up with any port design that has a mouth area of 25 square inches and a length of 1.5 inches

speakermakers wrote: Your box is 6 cubic feet internal With a 5’x5” port 1.5” long Use the kicker amp Don’t run this amp below 2 ohms (it will have an ill effect on this design) Set your Low Pass Xover at 70Hz Set your Subsonic Filter to 35Hz Set your bass boost at half Set your gain to a volume of your taste Make sure that your box ends up with bracing inside (1”x2” Poplar struts from the face to the back works great). Make sure that the subs are mounted off to one corner of what ever side that you mount them to. And make sure that the subs them selves end up off to one side or corner of your trunk. Placing the subs near the center of the trunk might look good but you will have major acoustic cancellation. Measure twice and make sure that this box will fit in your trunk! If it wont you may have to build two boxes or reconfigure the design so that it will fit. As long as the internal volume stays the same it won’t affect the sound. This will be your final frequency response This graph shows how much your subs cones will have to move. If you do not set the subsonic filter correctly the subs will bottom out like crazy as well as demand too much from your amp. As far as sealed designs go for this sub, the output is considerably less and it would demand more amplifier power than you have. Good luck!

What box program is that? I want to buy it.

do it right the first time ....or do it again and again and again...

speakermakers wrote: Your box is 6 cubic feet internal With a 5’x5” port 1.5” long Use the kicker amp Don’t run this amp below 2 ohms (it will have an ill effect on this design) Set your Low Pass Xover at 70Hz Set your Subsonic Filter to 35Hz Set your bass boost at half Set your gain to a volume of your taste Make sure that your box ends up with bracing inside (1”x2” Poplar struts from the face to the back works great). Make sure that the subs are mounted off to one corner of what ever side that you mount them to. And make sure that the subs them selves end up off to one side or corner of your trunk. Placing the subs near the center of the trunk might look good but you will have major acoustic cancellation. Measure twice and make sure that this box will fit in your trunk! If it wont you may have to build two boxes or reconfigure the design so that it will fit. As long as the internal volume stays the same it won’t affect the sound. This will be your final frequency response This graph shows how much your subs cones will have to move. If you do not set the subsonic filter correctly the subs will bottom out like crazy as well as demand too much from your amp. As far as sealed designs go for this sub, the output is considerably less and it would demand more amplifier power than you have. Good luck!

What box program is that? I want to buy it.

do it right the first time ....or do it again and again and again...