amp, dvc sub configuration, wattage

Hello, this forum's been a lot of help, just have a few questions that anyone with some experience should be able to answer, I'll try to keep it quick. I have 1 Infinity Reference 611a Monoblock amp (500w RMS @ 4ohm, 600w RMS @ 2ohm), and 1 Diamond Audio D610D4 sub (DVC 500w RMS/1000w max @ 4ohm). Let's assume the ratings aren't BS. And Forgive me if my questions seem awfully amateur: If I wire the sub in series, it will present a 2-ohm load to the amp(A), and the amp will push each voice coil at 300w RMS(B) = 600w RMS for the sub(C), whereas the sub is rated for 500w RMS for both VCs combined(D). Are A,B,C, and D in that statement all true? Just checking to make sure I have a good understanding about the way things work. Also, I should be OK as far as overpowering the sub goes, correct? I like my music kind of loud, sure, but I also like balance (SQ guy here). I listen to music with fast beats & deep bass, but I'm not pushing it that hard, even though I loooove deep bass. I do know that there are thermal limits in question, and I live in a city where temperatures inside a parked car can reach 150F easily. But with gain set properly and the music at a reasonable volume, I'm fairly confident that I shouldn't have issues breaking anything. Am I probably OK with this configuration? Then, I'm guessing my alternator and battery suck, for various reasons, including the fact that my air conditioning dims my headlights when the compressor starts, and I occasionally notice my headlights dimming a bit when I step on the brakes. If I run into problems, I'll be replacing the battery and upgrading my BIG 3 first, but with my setup and preferences, I hope it won't be too bad. Please tell me my car isn't going to explode ;) I'm gonna run 4-gauge to the amp, should be plenty.. but what gauge to run from the amp to the sub? And where can I get some good quality audio cable that's not gonna cost me an arm and a leg? I refuse to believe all the "Monster" hype until I've at least heard it from a pro instead of an advertisement. Sorry bout the long post, I'm notorious for that. Thanks.

I need to start at your end...

rhodekyll wrote: Sorry bout the long post, I'm notorious for that. Thanks.

No problem, but you're an amateur... You should look for some of my posts and threads! (Please take that in the spirit in which it is intended.)

rhodekyll wrote: I have 1 Infinity Reference 611a Monoblock amp (500w RMS @ 4ohm, 600w RMS @ 2ohm), and 1 Diamond Audio D610D4 sub (DVC 500w RMS/1000w max @ 4ohm). Let's assume the ratings aren't BS. And Forgive me if my questions seem awfully amateur: If I wire the sub in series, it will present a 2-ohm load to the amp(A), and the amp will push each voice coil at 300w RMS(B) = 600w RMS for the sub(C), whereas the sub is rated for 500w RMS for both VCs combined(D). Are A,B,C, and D in that statement all true? Just checking to make sure I have a good understanding about the way things work.

1: The ratings on those products aren't BS. Infinity and Diamond are two of the few honestly rated companies still out there. 2: (in answer to your (A)) If you wire the coils in series, you'll be presenting an 8 ohm load to the amplifier. You need to wire in parallel for a 2 ohm load. If wiring in parallel, then B, C, and D will then be true.

rhodekyll wrote: Also, I should be OK as far as overpowering the sub goes, correct? I like my music kind of loud, sure, but I also like balance (SQ guy here). I listen to music with fast beats & deep bass, but I'm not pushing it that hard, even though I loooove deep bass. I do know that there are thermal limits in question, and I live in a city where temperatures inside a parked car can reach 150F easily. But with gain set properly and the music at a reasonable volume, I'm fairly confident that I shouldn't have issues breaking anything. Am I probably OK with this configuration?

I'd say you'll be fine. I, too, live in a very hot (summertime) city, and I have "overpowered" various woofers by a LARGE margin (i.e. 3 to 5 TIMES the woofer's rated power! ) over and above what you are talking about doing, for long periods of time with no significant ill effect.

rhodekyll wrote: Then, I'm guessing my alternator and battery suck, for various reasons, including the fact that my air conditioning dims my headlights when the compressor starts, and I occasionally notice my headlights dimming a bit when I step on the brakes. If I run into problems, I'll be replacing the battery and upgrading my BIG 3 first, but with my setup and preferences, I hope it won't be too bad. Please tell me my car isn't going to explode ;)

600 watts, divided by .8, divided by 14.4 equals 52A. That is quite an additional load to place on an alternator. I wuold see about upgrading your Big 3 ASAP. You'll be able to get away with it for a little while; I wouldn't push it for too long, but your car ISN'T going to explode.

rhodekyll wrote: I'm gonna run 4-gauge to the amp, should be plenty.. but what gauge to run from the amp to the sub? And where can I get some good quality audio cable that's not gonna cost me an arm and a leg? I refuse to believe all the "Monster" hype until I've at least heard it from a pro instead of an advertisement.

If not planning on upgrading the amplifier any time soon, you don't need to go to the expense of #4, unless you just WANT to... Even a #8 is perfectly capable with a 50A load on it. You could use even a 16 gauge between the amp and the woofer. For "pretties", you can use whatever speaker wire you want... I, personally, chose Stinger 8 gauge primary wire, in clear red and clear "root beer". It wasnt necessary AT ALL, but I liked the way it looked (and it fit into my amplifier's speaker output terminals...) As far as brand name? Forget buying BECAUSE of brand. Wire tweakists need to be strung up with the very wire they are worshipping. A conductor is a conductor is a conductor. IF there is is any difference in conductors, you CERTAINLY wont hear it at subwoofer frequencies... in a TRUNK... ON THE ROAD.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

TYVM haemphyst--somehow I figured you'd answer my post, saw you were on at the same time. Anyways, thank you for taking your time with my post. Can't believe I wrote series instead of parallel, at least that's the kind of mistake I WON'T be making at wiring-time. Looks like I had the right idea on a lot of stuff though, thankfully. I think I'm going to run 8ga wire and fuse it at 50A or 60A, depending on what kind of fuses I find when I go shopping for wire. I'll have to look into buying some 2ga for my BIG 3 at the same time, I just don't think what I've got right now is gonna cut it and frankly I'm not extremely confident that the BIG 3 alone will solve that problem. From what I've read from people with similar cars it looks like it's probably an 80A alt, not sure though, factory one has been replaced. I'll try and go get it tested today. It does 12.23V off, 14.58V idle. When it's off, just turning the lights off drops it almost .2V, and during idle the lights drop it about .1V for a few seconds. Obviously I'd be better off if I had an ammeter handy, but I don't. TYVM for all the help, oh yeah, kidding about the exploding car thing. :P Thanks

12.23 is kinda low for a battery...My Duralast Gold sits around 12.7-12.9 with the engine off. I do believe in the BIG THREE...I used to have a crappy Profile HA1000 two channel amp that would drop my voltage down to 12.6 at idle...now I have 4 gauge alternator wire and 0 gauge grounds JL 500/1 full tilt the voltage drops are: -14.3 down to 13.8-14 volts with the head lights on -14.3 down to 13.1 with the head lights on AND air on full blast Also my idle voltage is up too...from 13.6 to 14.3 volts. This is in a 98 Explorer with the SOHC V6 If done properly with clean and tight connections the big three will help more than you think

For sure, yeah what I meant was basically that I'll probably have problems without it, that it will help my problems but that it will not solve them. BIG 3's definitely important, and I'm sure right now I have the puny 3.. but I'm also aware the BIG 3 isn't a fix-all. Still I am hopeful it will help me enough to get by, but I am cautiously optimistic.

BUMP! OK here's the good stuff. System is going in a new car. 1998 Eagle Talon. Basically an eclipse hatchback 2dr. I went to AutoZone the other day to get my battery and alternator checked out. They check out fine, but their computer says my alternator is rated for 90A. When we put it on the machine, the machine read that it was already pulling slightly more than 90A. I haven't even installed my amp/sub yet! Could someone evaluate my situation, give me some advice? I'm in the process of wiring everything through. And I am pretty damn broke now, so try not to suggest that I go out and buy like $500 worth of crap for this.. unless that's the only option, I guess.. Sigh, long day. 90A? Dear god.