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Add Remote Central Locking to basic alarm


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Chris Wheeler 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 24, 2003
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: March 24, 2003 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  

I have a very basic aftermarket alarm fitted to my Rover 200, it is a 'Rapid 200' alarm, and has connections for power, ground, indicator flash (L+R), input from proximity sensors inside the car, and a green wire which goes to the boot of the car, which i assume it some kind of sensor which is triggered when the boot opens.

The car also comes with standard central locking, which is triggered by the drivers door lock. There is no motor in the drivers door, but I think i can add one.

What i want to do is make it so when the alarm is armed, the doors lock, and when it is disarmed, they unlock. From looking at the guides on this site they all describe 'lock/unlock' outputs from the alarm - i don't think my alarm has theese.

The only way i can see is to use the cable which goes to the control box inside the car for the proximity sensors, which appears to carry +12v when the alarm is armed, and be grounded when its disarmed. However this is the only wire going between the alarm and the box inside the car, so it must also carry some kind of signal to let the alarm know if the proximity senors are triggered.

Would it be possibe to use this wire to trigger a relay, which grounds the lock pin on the central locking switch when the alarm is armed (+12v on the wire) and grounds the unlock pin when the alarm is disarmed (ground on the wire). If so, how could i make it so only a few seconds pulse is sent to the central locking, rather than a continous signal ?

Thanks

-Chris

Car-Stuff 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2003
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: March 24, 2003 at 4:02 PM / IP Logged  

You will need to use a central door locking interface that works off a positive trigger. Wire this to then drive your additional door motor placed in the drivers door.

I know Scorpion make a cdl interface that works like this but it is about £32 which is a bit on the expensive side. I'll have a think who can supply you one at the right money.

Nick

Chris Wheeler 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 24, 2003
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: March 24, 2003 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged  
Cant i use a relay to invert the polarity of the trigger ? I'm assuming the central locking control box i have has a negative trigger for lock, and one for unlock.
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: March 24, 2003 at 4:40 PM / IP Logged  
I thought there was a relay diagram somewhere on this site about how to do it, but I can't seem to find it.
Anyway, to begin with, you'll need to add a motor in the driver's door, and control it with a pair of relays---this part is explained in the Relays part of the website we're on now.
Next comes the challenging part. I've never attempted this before, but I think I have an idea how to do it.
Next, let's look at what you have available coming from your alarm. You're saying there's a wire that goes to the proximity sensor---it's testing as positive when armed, and ground while disarmed.
Well, I'd go ahead and make one more test---cut that wire in half (or unplug) the proximity sensor, and test again. The wire that comes from the alarm most likely only has one function-----it's either positive while armed, or negative while disarmed-----but it's very unlikely to do both functions. It most likely only shows one of these functions because an electrical load (the proximity sensor) is attached to it---disconnecting the sensor will give you a more honest answer.
Anyway, whichever way that wire happens to be, it might change some of the ways you'll wire things up, but only in a very minor way.... we'll get to that in a moment.
Next, your alarm has a connection to the lights, you said. And I'd imagine that the lights flash when you arm and disarm the alarm, right? Well, we'll make use of that too.
All you have to figure out is this: When the alarm is armed, the parking light flasher will also lock the doors....when it is disarmed, it will unlock the doors. And you have that other wire going to the proximity sensor that will indicate whether the alarm is armed or disarmed, right?
So, you'll want to make a relay setup that is triggerd by that wire going to the sensor......the wire will control the relay, which will be used to direct the light flash output to lock, or unlock, the doors.
Now, there are a few things to think about here:
-You can't have the relay stay in the "on" state the whole time the car is armed---this would drain the battery if parked for long periods.
-You'll need to use diodes to isolate your car's lights from the system you're about to make---you don't want the locks to move back and forth when you turn your lights on for nighttime driving.
-Your alarm system probably flashes the lights a certain number of times, depending on what's happening----probably one flash for arm, and two for disarm. So when you go to disarm, it's actually going to unlock your doors twice, causing a little extra wear....sorry, there's not much that can be done about that.
-When a thief breaks into your car, the lights also flash, correct? Because of this, the alarm will keep re-locking the doors over and over during a break-in...this is actually probably a good thing.
So, if you don't already know how relays work, spend some time reading through the sections about them. I can try to help you all I can, but since I've never done this before, I can't guarantee you that everything will work as described....but it would be fun to find out!
Chris Wheeler 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 24, 2003
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: March 24, 2003 at 6:09 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, thanks for all the info Chris...

After posting my original post, i've been looking through the section on relays a little more, and found this page ( https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#ctm ), which has a diagram which shows how to set up 'constant to momentary output' - I think this would be usefull to only send one pulse to the door locks instead of a constant lock signal.

I'll check the wire again tomorrow while its light, without the sensor plugged in, and see how the wire comes up - your probably correct in that its only connected to ground because the sensor is grounded.

The alarm has a connection to the indicator lights, which seem to be on two seperate fused circuits, one for left indicators, and one for the right indicators. When the alarm is armed by the remote it makes one long flash of the indicators, and when it is disarmed, it makes 3 short flashes, or 5 short flashes if the alarm has been triggered.

Obviously I dont want the locks unlocking every time I indicate - so i'll use diodes to stop that.

Also, on the same page as i mentioned above, there is a diagram for 'pulsed to steady output' - would this be usefull to stop the locks repeatedly unlocking for each flash of the indicators when the alarm is disarmed ?

The only problem now is the point you mentioned about not having the relay constantly charged while the car alarm is armed, to prevent draining the battery. I may be able to overcome this with a 'constany to momentry output' circut again on the above mentioned page. This would only turn the relay on for a few seconds after the alarm is armed.

Just thought, if i do things that way - when someone sets the alarm off, the locks will unlock due to the indicators flashing with the alarm siren!.


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