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97 miata, light flash


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wildeman 
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Member spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2009
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 14, 2009 at 6:33 PM / IP Logged  

I'm a do-it-yourself hobbiest and I've pretty much completed the installation of a Viper 350HV in my 97 Miata. I've added aftermarket actuators for the door locks and the relays to control them and everything is working fine. The only place I'm confused is the light flash connections. Looking over the Miata wiring diagram I understand I should be hooking the white wire from the 350 to the RED / black wire that controls the lights at the fuse panel, but I have 3 questions;

1) Is a relay required? There's no mention of one in the install guide, other than for systems drawing 10 amps or more, but based on the basic light flash diagram one is used.

2) Is the jumper at the brain set to positive or negative? The wiring diagram doesn't say if the RED / black wire is positive or negative as it does for the headlight , door trigger and horn wires.

3. In the note for parking light systems that draw 10amps, it says the jumper must be set to negative and a relay installed on the white wire. Does this mean the jumper remains negative regardless of whether its a + or - system?

tommy... 
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Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 14, 2009 at 7:59 PM / IP Logged  
Parking LightsRED / BLACK(+)AT FUSEBOX

as far as the polarity of parking lights it is probably + of of alarm...im assuming you used/have a DMM or test light...? Put black lead on ground...Put red lead on the white wire...Press lock and see if you have voltage on your meter...if it flashes 12.6 volts it is positive...as far as the draw of a miata's parking lights i do not know...did one about a year ago and did not use a relay...hope this helps

M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
wildeman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2009
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 14, 2009 at 10:31 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the response Tommy.

I should have mentioned I have used a meter on the white wire and it does currently show as positive, but there is also a jumper on the 350HV unit to switch the polarity of the white wire.

My concern on the polarity is the install manual has the following concerning the white H1/2 wire:

"IMPORTANT! DO NO connect this wire to a negative vehicle light flash wire before changing the programming jumper to the negative polarity position or damage to vehicle light circuit may occur."

Chris Luongo 
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Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: May 15, 2009 at 12:48 AM / IP Logged  
Sounds like you're pretty much all set.
You found the wire in the car, you tested it, it shows positive power when the parking lights are on.............and you did move the car's dash dimmer up and down, right?
You want to make sure you get a true parking light wire, not the dash dimmer wire. The correct wire will be postive, with the lights on, regardless of the dimmer switch position.
And that's pretty much it. Leave the jumper on the Viper set to positive, and connect the Viper's white parking light wire to the car's parking light wire. Hit the arm or disarm button to make sure your lights flash.
The Viper already has an onboard relay, and the 10-amp fuse on the wire harness won't blow with a car like yours.
Maybe if you had a big truck with all kinds of extra parking lights, plus maybe a trailer, then you'd want to think about wiring an external relay for parking lights......with a regular passenger car, you're fine.
howie ll 
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Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May 15, 2009 at 2:49 AM / IP Logged  
Tommy and Chris are absolutely correct, both in what they ask you to do regarding testing and and the questions. As an aside, I would have picked this lead up from the lighting switch, or testing at a rear light for the right colour, then pick it up in the floor loom.  More importantly, over here we use indicators rather than side lights (they pack a pair of  2N5400 series diodes with our kit) and the draw is is 108watts = 9+amps, I've NEVER needed a relay. We don't have hood or trunk switches in the Euro version of that car, the trunk switch is fun.
wildeman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2009
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 15, 2009 at 8:54 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the help everyone. I didn't think of picking the wire up at the switch that may have been easier than locating at the panel amongst all the wiring there. I did check the light in the trunk and the RED / black (drivers) and RED / green (passenger) both have + voltage when the lights are on and nothing when the lights are off. The dimmer doesn't affect the voltage. I'll won't have time to get under the dash to make the connections until sometime this weekend, but I'm pretty sure I've got the answers I need.  

wildeman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2009
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 15, 2009 at 7:38 PM / IP Logged  
Okay I got off work a little early today so I went back under the dash and found where the RED / black wire hits a wiring harness just under the steering column and tapped in there. Everythings working great all parking lights, side lights and even the license plate lights are now flashing when operating the alarm.  Thanks again to everyone for the help.

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