viper 5701 on 2000 toyota camry

Hi, all! I've been working all weekend, installing my first remote start alarm system, and I must say your forums have been most helpful! I have gotten 90% through the whole ordeal, except there are a few weird items; I'll start with what I've figured out (to help others with that tricky stuff), then i have a few questions of my own. First, for reference, here are my wiring connections so far: Function----------------------------------------------- alarm wire------vehicle wire---------------------------location Harness #1 Trunk release for after market solenoid--RED / WHITE---need to wire to relay for aftermarket solenoid power for alarm system-----------------------------RED---------wht/red------------------------------ign harness siren output-------------------------------------------BROWN-----red wire on siren-------------------siren lead ?***flex parking light relay------------- WHITE/ BROWN-------not used-----    *do i need this? It seems to trigger somekind of relay when i hook it up to + or -) alarm ground ------------------------------------BLACK------chasis---------ground Door (+) input -----------------------------------VIOLET-----not used-----not used trunk trigger -------------------------------------BLUE--------direct wired to trunk latch Door (-) Input -----------------------------------Green--------RED / White---7-pin plug on top-right of fusebox ?***DOME LIGHT OUTPUT--------BLACK/ WHITE ---not used --- not used RS actifation input -------------------- WHITE/ BLUE ------not used----not used ?***PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT-----------WHITE------------green---4-pin connector at bottom of fuse box, right next to the orange one gnd when armed -----------------------------ORANGE-------not used-----not used RS in harness Neutral safety ------------------------------- BLACK/ white -------- chassis ground tach input ------------------------------------- violet/white --------- black wire --- on grey connector going into coil, on driver's side of engine (4-cyl) ?***brake (+) input ---------------------------- brown ------------- ??? can't find this wire hood pin switch -------------------------------- gray --------------- not used (yet) ?***defogger output ------------------------ blue/white --- ??? Harness #2 Not used yet, I only need to find these two wires on the car: *2nd unlock --- light blue --- ??? *horn honk output (-) --- BROWN / black --- ??? Harness #3 (Heavy Gauge) Ignition 1 --- pink --- BLACK / YELLOW --- ignition switch harness RED / white --- 12V (thick white wire, ignition switch harness) accessory --- orange --- blue/red --- ignition switch harness starter output (car side) --- violet -- car side of Red starter wire starter input (key side) --- green - key side of red starter wire Red - 12V (thick white wire, ignition switch harness) pink/white --- BLACK/ red ignition 2 (car side) pink/black --- BLACK/ red ignition 2 (key side) RED / black --- 12V (thick white wire, ignition switch harness) Basically, in order to get the Remote Start to work, i figured out that ALL of the pink wires need to be hooked up to some kind of ignition wire (guess and check), and ALL of the red wires needed 12V. There was a lot of confusion with the pink/black flex relay contact 87a, and I ended up splitting the ignition 2 wires (both of them, its two little matching wires) and hooking up key side with the pink/black, and car side with the pink/white. I did this because the manual alluded to the fact that toyota's and Nissan's sometimes require ignition switch isolation. Seems to me that all of the pink ignition wires simply need to be hooked up to any/all of the ignition wires at the ignition switch in the car. Each relay (starter, ignition1, ignition2) has its own fat red power wire, with a different stripe to differentiate them. Just hook 'em all up to 12V. Now, for my questions! Parking lights: I definately have these hooked up wrong There has been a lot of weirdness here at the end, not the least of which is the fact that i have unexplicably lost control of my headlights. As a matter of fact, the headlights and interior lights stay on even after i remove the key, and leave the car. If i lock/unlock with the remote, it somehow triggers the lights to go off. After investigating, i noticed that the Flex Parking Light Relay 87A (WHITE/ Brown) wire triggers some kind of relay. i.e., when i turn car off, and lights are stuck on, i can just touch this wire to chassis gnd and it turns all the lights off. I have the white parking light output 30 hooked right into (what i thought was) the positive wire for the parking lights (its the green wire, in a small white connector next to the big orange connector underneath the fuses). I tried switching the DEI polarity jumper to neg, as well as pos, to no avail. Does anybody know the correct way to hook up the parking lights on a toyota camry? The alarm is giving error code, zone 1, every time i lock it. I think it's because the trunk sensor i hooked up shows ground when the trunk is CLOSED, whereas DEI wants it to show GND when its open. I'll have to figure something out with this one. Does anybody know how to setup the defogger output on this vehicle? I'm sure i could find the wire behind the switch on the dash, but is it a latched or pulsed connection? Polarity? Also, does anybody have experience setting up the progressive unlock? My car has no stock keyless entry, and thus i believe the power locks control all of the locks, there would be no easy way to control the driver's side lock. Maybe i could tap onto the wire on the driver's door, and isolate with a diode? All said, I'm pretty proud of myself that it actually works, more or less, and i got the remote start to function as I believe that is probably the hardest part. Any help on these last couple of details would be much appreciated. Thanks for tyour time, Brad Cliffs Notes: *parking light flashers don't function, and I have lost control of my lights *where is the brake wire? horn wire? *any good solutions for -trunk wire? -Defroster wire? -progressive unlocking? *where is the steering column harness?

IN all honesty if you can't find the steering column harness i'm not sure you should be doing this. how have you been testing your wires? Brake wire is at the brake switch and horn wire is at the horn switch. Parking lights generally will also be at the light switch. As for your trunk wire you'll use a relay to convert the polarity. Very simple stuff. What did you use positive or negative parking lights?A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Parking lights not working correctly: Have you tested this green wire at the fuse box, or connected it to it at random? You can find the parking lights (green) and brake lights (GREEN / WHITE) both together at the same plug in the fuse box, positive trigger. You shouldn't have to connect the 87a wire from the Viper's parking light circuit to anything at all. If your factory parking lights aren't behaving as they should, temporarily disconnect the Viper's wire from the car to see if the problem lies with the car or with the alarm. Progressive unlocking: You want to find the driver's unlock motor wire coming from the fuse box....and the Viper's install guide should already have a section about how to use a relay to accomplish this. Defrost: Turn defroster on and off while listening for clicking. Follow the sounds and you should find the factory defroster relay....test all the wires and I think you'll find a negative trigger for the defroster there. Trunk trigger: That doesn't sound right. The factory Toyota trunk switch should already only make a ground when the car's trunk is open, rather than closed.

A side note on the trunk, it will rest at 12volts positive and go to ground when opened....Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

WOW!!! You guys are Awesome! As for the trunk pin sensor, I realized that the only reason it was showing ground when closed is because the metal bracket on the switch was bent in a funny way that caused it to ground it out when all the way closed. My trunk light must have been on all the time! I got the parking lights and tail lights flashing correctly now. Thanks, Chris, you were right about the wire. This website actually has the wire colors/locations for all the wires on just about every make/model out there. That's good, because it looks like I was working off of some bad information I got from some commando car alarms website. Okay, i have everything working perfectly now, except the headlights are still all messed up. However, I suspect that this is a mechanical problem with the switch inside the headlight/turn signal lever. I can turn them on, but only if the switch is held within a milimeter of where it clicks into the "on" position. Also, when I turn the car off, the parking lights still stay on. This happens with or without the alarm plugged in. So, I called a junkyard and i have a replacement lever coming in. The weird thing is, that the Flex Parking Light Relay (WHITE/ brown, pin 87a) will turn off the headlights if i touch it to ground. In any case, the headlight switch is malfunctioning so I hope the replacement will fix it. Does anybody have any advice as to a good location for the antenna/valet switch? I'm thinking the top center of the windshield, just behind the rearview mirror. But, should i point it up? down? sideways?

Okay, so after much testing, its now dark out and so the automatic headlights and everything does come on automatically. The interesting thing is, however, that when i turn the car off, the headlights will go off, but the parking lights and interior lights stay on. Even after I lock the car, arm the alarm, and everything. Its interesting to note that the dash lights as well as the parking lights will flash twice when i unlock the alarm. The only way to get the lights to go off is to touch that WHITE/ brown wire to ground. It seems to me that there is a lot of current being released in a short amount of time, because the WHITE/ brown wire will spark and kind of stick to the chassis when i ground it. It only does it for an instant. But, this is the only way to turn off the parking/interior lights. What's the deal? Is it just some kind of capacitor that needs to discharge, in order to turn off the relay? It seems to me that I will need to hook pin 87a to ground, so that the lights can go off when the relay is in its closed position. FYI for other noobs like me, the following page was very helpful to me in understanding the relays used inside this DEI alarm system: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp Any thoughts on pin 87a? thanks guys

One more thing, the manual says: "Note: For parking light circuits that draw 10 amps or more, the internal jumper must be switched to a (-) light flash output. P/N 8617 or a standard automotive SPDT relay must be used on the H1/11 light flash output harness wire." Is a 2000 Toyota Camry such a car? Are my parking lights supposed to draw a lot of current? The wire I tapped into couldn't have been much thicker than 18AWG. I have to assume that this jumper controls the polarity of pin 87 of the relay, which throws power to pin 30 (the white wire, which I hooked up to my car's parking light wire) when the alarm weants to flash the lights. I just don't understand why pin 87a would need to be grounded...when the alarm isn't operating the parking lights, shouldn't my car's headlight control be able to turn off the parking lights?

I've never measured the current draw to be sure, but no, that car shouldn't need you to use an external relay. At least I never have. Your second paragraph, I totally agree with. When the alarm/remote start is not commanding the car's parking lights to be on, then the car's lights should work exactly as designed from the factory. I would start by temporarily disconnecting the alarm's parking light wire from the car. At this point, you have no idea if the alarm is somehow defective, or if something on your car is broken. So, disconnect the wire. If the problem goes away, something's wrong with the alarm, or maybe somehow the way it was installed. If on the other hand the problem says, it's not the alarm, it's the car. Forget that you even have an alarm, and go about trying to fix whatever's wrong with the car.