2004 hyundai xg350, remote start

I have a few questions for the installation of my remote car starter/alarm. I'll start by listing some helpful info which will be followed by my questions. Thanks for your help in advance!Vehicle: Hyundai XG350 (2004); Wiring Diagrams:1) the12volt (DIRECTWIRE)2) Commando AlarmsRemote Starter/Alarm: Camco Systems RS-850 (bought on eBay). Links to info (incl. manual) can be found at the bottom of my post.*Note that I do NOT have an Autopage RS-850, and by looking though the manual it does seem different from my model.Scanned PDF manual: Camco Systems RS-850 Remote Car Starter Manual (optimized).PDF (YouShare)My easy to read wiring reference for the remote starer: RS-850 Remote Start wiring.doc (YouShare)Pretty useless information: Mfgr website. *No manuals at that siteQuestion 1:Regarding: H1, Pin 2 & Pin 3 (Harness 1 of the remote start module)I'm hooking this up to the parking lights and looking at the vehicle wiring diagram: do I just use the left and right parking lights and ignore the negative?Helpful information to Question 1:Starter Moudle Info:Pin 2: Brown: lamp wire 1 output (+/-). Correctly set jumper on mainboard (See PG28 - S1) default is (+)Pin 3: Brown: lamp wire 2 output (+). Note: Do not connect this wire to the headlight.Vehicle Info:Parking Lights+       purple (L), BROWN / white (R)       +       fuse box, rear 14P plug, pins 9, 10Parking Lights-       lt. blue       -       switch or ETACM, 12 pin plug, pin 5 --End of Question 1--Question 2:Regarding: Domelight SupervisionIs 'the12volt' wiring diagram pointing to the relay, or will I need a relay for the wire 'the12volt' specefies?Helpful information to Question 2:On the Commando Alarms wiring diagram (link at top) it says to "USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #R30-H Relay".On the12volt wiring diagram (link at top) it says to use "fuse box, 10 pin plug, pin 8"The starter manual specifies: "Note: Tbis output is only to drive relays instead of connecting directly to the dome lamp circuit. Since this wire only can absorb current of. 200mA, it can be conneted to the dome lamp circuit only by adding external relays."--End of Question 2--Question 3:Regarding: H10, Pin 3 (Harness 10 of the remote start module)What color of wire(s) do I hook this up to? I have an automatic transmission, so would it be best to only hook this up to Park?--End of Question 3--Question 4:Regarding: Rear Defrost WireI would like to hook up my aux output to my rear defrost. I can't seem to find any information on how I would trigger it. Can someone please let me know what wires, polarities, what relays if necessary are required to trigger this output?--End of Question 4--So far I successfully have my doorlocks working (without any relays)! And the wires and the relay to the ignition harness finished.*This is my first starter install, so the more detailed the better =)

I have answered these questions myself (via testing and getting ideas for what to test). I'll post this for anyone who might need the answers: Question 1: Parking lights ONLY need to be hooked up to the (-); If you want to use the positive wires, BOTH wires need to be hooked up. *On the RS-850 unit that I have, there is an error in the manual. The "Pin 3: Brown: lamp wire 2 output (+)" is the output that does (+\-). Furthermore, you will NOT see a switch on the unit as noted in the manual. You need to OPEN the unit up (wth!) breaking what looks like a warranty seal, then changing the jumper that specifies Wire 2 + - (it is clear how the jumper should be set by reading the writing on the mainboard). Question 2: Domelight Supervision I hooked it up to: "fuse box, 10 pin plug, pin 8" without any relays. Dome light triggers successfuly. Question 3: Parking wire I just grounded this wire (a guy from the install bay at Futureshop told me it was fine on an automatic to do this). Question 4: Rear Defrost Wire I'm still trying to figure this one out. I have an issue that I need to work out first before continuing on for the defrost. Additional information Trunk Release: I got my remote trunk release working WITHOUT any external relays. I hooked up the wire from the brain to the trunk relay (Pin 85) located on the front of the fuse box. Works like a charm, no extra relays needed. There is a small ledge that stops the relay from becoming flush - which is just enough room to fit a very small wire without having the relay lifted up more than it was designed to.

I have almost finished installing my (first) remote starter/alarm, but I'm running into a problem for an issue that should be extremly simple.When I unlock (and disarm) the system, the alarm will trigger for as long as the door is open or for 30 seconds (the standard alarm trigger timer), whichever is shorter.This applies to all times the door is opened in the unarmed state. *The system works like it should in the armed state. The remote also displays the correct status when the door(s) are open/closed.I have also wired up the trunk pin and hood pin and, in the disarmed state, when the hood/trunk pin is released, the system works fine (no alarm).Why is my alarm sounding when it is disarmed and the door is opened, yet immediatly turn off when it is closed?What I did to troubleshoot:     Unhook doorpin trigger (on the brain) and tested it to ground directly (so it didn't need to rely on the door pin switch wire in case of incorrect wiring). I had the exact same results.Remote Starter/Alarm: Camco Systems RS-850 (bought on eBay). Links to info (incl. manual) below*Note that I do NOT have an Autopage RS-850, and by looking though the manual it does seem different from my model.Scanned PDF manual: Camco Systems RS-850 Remote Car Starter Manual (optimized).PDF (YouShare)My easy to read wiring reference for the remote starer: RS-850 Remote Start wiring.doc (YouShare)Pretty useless information: Mfgr website. *No manuals at that siteVehicle: Hyundai XG350 (2004); Wiring Diagrams:1) the12volt (DIRECTWIRE)2) Commando Alarms

I figured out what was wrong. There was a setting to disable the lights from flashing (the alarm wasn't going off, I didn't have the horn hooked up since I wanted to do that last). I thought it was the alarm, because the flickering sequence and timing was exactly the same as if the alarm was going off. The lights WERE going off when the door was opened because of the units DEFAULT setting (which I just changed). I missed that part in the manual, and I would have never guessed that the lights would flash like they did by default when the door was open. Now I need to get my defrost switch working The defrost can only be turned on when the vehicle is running. This was tested by turning the key to start the engine, then pressing the button. I have the remote (-) AUX output to the correct wire, but the defrost doesn't enable (the rear windshield doesn't feel warm, and the defrost light does not come on). Is there something else I should be doing?

I found out why the defrost didn't work. There is nothing special that needs to be done (just hook up the wire and your good to go). I found out my starter brain is defective, and the AUX output doesn't work. Upon physical inspection of the board, it's clear to see that one of the microcontrollers is toast. Good thing the rest of it works.