98 explorer gets scytek galaxy 5000rs

My first remote start/entry/alarm install, down to problems with the last 9 wires to go but first here's a recap of what I've done so far: Large gauge wires - lucked out here. Car had a previously installed remote start, the old wires were same color, same fuses, connected to same wires on car, and the individual female ends on them plugged right into the male spades for the Galaxy's single block connector. Other wires: Decided I don't need: Aux 2 output, Glow Plug Input, Passenger Unlock Output, Aux 1 output Already done: shock sensor, antenna, door lock/unlock connector, brake input, tach input, module power and ground, hood pin input, siren output, parking light output Here are the 9 I'm having trouble figuring out: 1. "Positive Door Input" - "door switch circuit wire that shows +12v when door open" -where to tap into? 2. "Negative Door Input" - "show ground when door open" - where to tap into? neither of these are listed on the the12volt's Explorer's wiring page, which just has "Door Trigger" for which it says to tap into an underdash courtesy light 3. "Dome Light Output" - also not on the12volt wiring chart, says it is "usually" one of the above 2 which triggers the dome light. Also says "must use relay", is a relay really necessary? 4. "Ignition Input" - can I just tap into the Large Gauge wire for Ignition Output? Why didn't Scytek just do this internally in the box instead of having another exterior wire for it? 5. "Ground when running output" - says "Connect to an optional factory security bypass module if required" - is this what I will connect to the iDatalink bypass module I have on order (so I can't really test any of this until I receive that and get it installed) The manual's author sure could have worded that better - if something is "required " then it is not "optional". 6. "Armed Output" - says it provides a ground output while armed to activate a relay for starter defeat and anti-grind protection (or window rollup module, which I don't have and I'd rather have the anti-grind protection anyway) So, how to I implement this? 7. "Factory Disarm Output" - I have examined the wire bundle in the driver kick panel (same bundle where I found the wires to tap into for lock, unlock, and hood pin) several times and cannot find any dark GREEN/ purple wire. the12volt chart says "4-pin connector" in the DKP, but I don't see any such connector - anyone have a photo of it? 8. "Aux 3/Factory Rearm Output/ I would use this to rearm, right? But no rearm wire listed on the12volt chart. 9. Horn Output/Ignition 3 relay trigger - do I need this since I have a siren? don't know what an "ignition 3 relay trigger" does ... Thanks in advance for any advice Buddy

After more searching and reading I decided that I should connect #1, Pos Door Input, to the "Door Trigger" wire in the chart, BLACK/ lt blue. And that #2 (Neg door input) and #8 (factory rearm) are not used. And that #5 is to connect to the coming Idatalink bypass module. So, now I just have 5 wires to go, # 3,4,6,7,9 in the original post. Can someone please help me with these?

3. I rarely use this - but you should use a relay to isolate the low current ground (-) from the Remote Start 4. Yes, connect to the large gauge ignition out (it is a Scytek thing) 5. yes, goes to the bypass 6. it involves cutting the start wire and installing a relay - you can look it up in the diagrams section 7. test for factory alarm - roll down the window lock the doors with the power lock button - wait a few minutes - open the door from the inside - if the horn starts honking you have an alarm. If you don't do not connect the wire - if you do have an alarm it is a GREEN/ purple in the drivers kick (close to the unlock/lock wires) 8. yes, if you have a factory alarm - yellow/black close to the GREEN/ purple 9. no use your alarm siren Brent Haugen

Fargo, ND

Thank you, that's all I needed to know to finish this. Glenn

Brent, if you're still watching this thread, one more question. I looked again through the bundle of wires in the driver's kick panel for the GREEN/ purple "factory disarm" wire (before, I was looking for a really Dark green). Well I found GREEN/ purple, problem is I found 3 GREEN/ purple wires ! How can I test to know which one to use? Thanks, Glenn

Forgot to mention, there were 2 yellow/black, which you said to use for Factory Rearm. But one was a lot thicker gauge than the other, so I used the smaller one since rearming couldn't possibly require a large amount of amps.