01 Tahoe Couple of Things

Okay I have a 2001 Tahoe and I have a couple of problems so please help. 1. The lights on the mirrors won't go on when I disarm the alarm. Just the interior I think this is cause the tagged the light that shines on the drivers feet. 2. I remote start the car works perfect. Unlock and get in put in the key perfect. A little while later sometimes immediately sometimes 5 min the security light flicks on. So I stop turn the car off and back on with the key no problem. It doesn't turn off the fuel pump but the light flicks on every time. I have the 555t i believe that is the number I do know it isn't the universal.This is my biggest problem cause I bought the thing for this and I dont use it cause I have to turn the car off anyway. The alarm that I am using is a viper 550esp. 3. Can someone please let me know all the wiring diagrams that I can get on this vehicle also. If you need it, it has on star it's the lt so it has everything. Please Help this is so annoying.

did you power the 2nd and 3rd ignitions? if not, try useing a couple relays to power these as well you can use the vehicle information page on this site to get most wire colors. just use the information for a 2000 tahoe, and check all the wires to make sure they are right before making the connections.

1. Try using one of the individual door trigger wires. If you go to the purple plug at the BCM, the driver's door trigger is tan, and the blue/white gets the passenger doors. Just tie your domelight supervision output directly into the tan driver's door wire, and see if the outside lamps come on that way. Since the individual door trigger wires are low current, you won't need to use a relay either. 2. The 555T isn't so great...it's the one where you have to read the car's R-code with a meter, and then set a bunch of DIP switches on the 555T to match it, correct? When you start the car with the key, the 555T allows the car's original R-code to pass right through, so of course it works perfectly every time. When you use the remote start, the 555T puts out whatever code you have set with the DIP switches. It might be close to what the car wants, but it might not be exact. I don't think they've been selling 555Ts for at least a few years now...everyone's using the 555L. The L doesn't have DIP switches, and you don't use a meter; it's a self-learning piece. And the coolest thing is, EVERY time you start the car with your key, the L is reprogramming itself.........so if the car's resistance value changes just slightly for whatever reason, the L will keep right up with it. So definitely ditch the 555T and use a 555L instead. 3. Here's a DEI tech sheet for your car. I've done lots of these trucks, and I can verify that all the colors and locations are perectly accurate. (Well, I haven't done window modules....I've verified everything except the window wires.) |       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        | |              12V|red                 |+ |ignition harness            | |          STARTER|yellow              |+ |ignition harness            | |        IGNITION|pink               |+ |ignition harness            | | SECOND IGNITION|white               |+ |ignition harness            | |        ACCESSORY|orange              |+ |ignition harness            | |       POWER LOCK|lt. blue            |+ |brown plug at BCM *1        | |     POWER UNLOCK|white               |+ |brown plug at BCM *1        | |       LOCK MOTOR|gray               |   |drivers kick panel          | |     UNLOCK MOTOR|tan                 |   |drivers kick panel          | |    DISARM DEFEAT|tan                 |   |passengers kick panel       | | PARKING LIGHTS +|brown               |   |lt. blue plug at BCM *1     | | PARKING LIGHTS -|white               |   |lt. blue plug at BCM *1     | |       HEADLIGHTS|white               |+ |lt. blue plug at BCM *1     | |     DOOR TRIGGER|*2                  |- |BCM *1                      | |FCTRY ALRM DISARM|lt.green            |- |drivers kick *4             | |       TACHOMETER|white               |   |ECM *3                      | |      SPEED SENSE|dk.GREEN / WHITE      |   |ECM *3                      | |       BRAKE WIRE|white               |+ |brake pedal switch          | |     HORN TRIGGER|black               |- |brown plug at BCM *1        | |           WIPERS|                    |   |                            | | LF WINDOW UP/DN|blue   -   brown    |A |drivers door switch        | | RF WINDOW UP/DN|blue   -   brown    |A |passenger door switch       | | LR WINDOW UP/DN|blue   -   brown    |A |LR window switch            | | RR WINDOW UP/DN|blue   -   brown    |A |RR window switch            | Notes: Note: This vehicle has the passlock II immobilizer system that, when adding a remote start, must be interfaced with. Use DEI part 555t or 555L. Note: Diesel glow plug, dk. blue(-) located at the instrument cluster. *1 The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. The parking lights are in pin A5 and the headlights are in pin A11. *2 Use tan for the drivers door located in pin B4 of the purple plug, the passenger doors are a blue/white in the lt. blue plug, and the rear hatch pin is a pink/black in the lt. blue plug. You must diode isolate these wires. *3 ECM is located near the battery, down low, between the fender and the fan under the black plastic cover. On the 4.3L, the tach wire is at pin 20 in the connector labeled "red", and VSS wire is at pin 3 in the connector labeled "black". On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located at pin 10 in the "red" connector, and VSS wire is located in pin 50 of the "red" connector. *4 Also found in the purple plug of the BCM.

I lied i have the 555l cause there aren't any switches. Having said that do you think that I should check the second and third ignitions? Also what happens if I hook up all the second and third ignitions from the alarm to the first ignition on the cars harness. One more thing where are all the bcm's, ecm's. Thanks you guys are helping me a bunch

The 555L is pretty good. The only thing I can really say is to carefully go over all of its connections...make doubly sure that they are secure and reliable, and make sure each wire is actually connected to the right place. Since it has quite a few wires coming from it, it might be easy to get one of them mixed up. It could never hurt to make sure that all of your ignition and accessory wires are hooked up right...but I believe that if they were bad, you'd have trouble getting the thing to remote start at all. As far as reversing the ignition connections........ The white and the pink ignition wires behave the same way...they show power in the Run and Start positions...so connecting them "backwards" to your remote starter would make no difference at all. The orange accessory wire shows power in the Run position, but it loses power in the Start position......this is simply to disable all the unnecessary devices like the heater, so the car has more available power to crank the starter. So, your remote starter should be built the same way. If you mistakenly hooked the remote starter's accessory output to one of the ignition wires in the car.....the ignition wire would be losing power during cranking....which is contrary to how the car was designed....and therefore odd things might happen. So the answer is that if you've only reversed the ignition 1 and 2 wires, that makes no difference whatsoever.....but if you reversed the accessory wire with one of the ignitions, that probably wouldn't be good.