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jeep viper 5701 xk531 combo wont start


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millrtyme 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2011
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: January 07, 2011 at 6:11 AM / IP Logged  

I recently installed a Viper 5701 with a XK531 module in my 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee.  After making all connections (except parking lights) and attempting to start the vehicle with the  remote, all I get is an error "buzz" from the remote.  According to the installation manual I should be able to diagnose this problem by the number of flashes from my park lights.  However, I don't have them wired yet and am a little confused on the correct way to do so. I've read of several ways to connect them but need help understanding each of them because I don't want to ruin anything.  Right now I have the H1/4 (WHITE/ brown) and the H1/11 (white) wires connected to nothing.  Is a correct connection as simple as cutting the yellow wire from the light switch and attaching the H1/4 wire to the switch side and the H1/11 to the other side?  If a resistor is required, what size should it be and should it be placed in the H1/4 wire, the H1/11 wire, or under the lid of the RCS? 

I've also read that a wire can be connected to the 86 terminal of the parking light relay without a resistor and without cutting the yellow wire at the switch, but where does the wire come from that I connect to the 86 terminal?  What is done with the H1/4 and H1/11 wires if this method is used? 

I'm also unsure whether my XK531 is properly programmed.  Could this be a cause of my problem described above?  Is there a way to verify that the XK531 is programmed?  I followed the instructions, but when I removed the second key the security light stopped flashing and nothing happened when I powered the ignition wire and held the module up to the key cylinder.  The instructions implied that the security light would remain flashing after the second key was removed and a chime would sound after 10 seconds, then the light would stop flashing,  come on for 3 seconds, then go off.  None of this happened.  Am I following the sequence correctly?  Should the security light stay flashing when I remove the second key?

The information I've received on this site so far is what convinced me to do this installation myself rather than paying a professional.  I believe I'm almost there, but would appreciate any help with these last issues. 

Miller
monty_77 
Copper - Posts: 491
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2009
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: January 07, 2011 at 9:42 AM / IP Logged  
You do not have to cut the yellow wire just move you park light jumper to negative.
then put a 1300 resistor (1/8 watt or 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt will all work what every you can get) on the yellow wire and attach the white wire to the other side and you are done
You will not need the flex wire WHITE/ brown
sometimes i have to take the board out of the bypass to touch the transponder to the key cylinder.
step should go as followed
1. first key turn on wait for security light to go out. now remove key. you have five seconds to do next step
2. second key turn on wait for security light to go, then in 10-15 seconds the security light should start to flash and sound a chime (this will let you know its in program mode). now remove key 5-10 seconds to do next step.(they say up to 60 but the fast you do it the better)
3 place transponder next to key cylinder. jump the ignition wires with a fused jumper (I use a toggle switch in my jumper wires so i do not have to waste time trying to connect them). After 10 seconds, a chime will sound. The SECURITY light will stop flashing, then turn ON for 3 seconds, then turn OFF.
good luck it can take a few try to get it.
millrtyme 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2011
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: January 07, 2011 at 12:48 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks Monty 77.  Can I just run a T tap to the yellow parking light wire to a 1300 ohm resistor on the end of the H1/11 white wire?  Also when powering the ignition to program the XK531, can I jump just the Blue ignition wire from a constant 12v wire, or do all ignition wires need powered?

Miller
millrtyme 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2011
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: January 07, 2011 at 5:06 PM / IP Logged  

I discovered that my hood pin switch is part of my no-remote start problem.  I had it hooked to the underhood lamp and apparently that wasn't a good connection.  With the hood pin wire open I try to remote start and now I get a different response, but still no start.  Now I hear the fuel pump prime and the dash lights come on - but no start.  This happens three times before the system quits trying.  I probed the purple wire from the RCS to the starter and during the start attempt it gets voltage, but very little.  Maybe only 3 or 4 volts.  This happens every time it tries to restart.  Does anyone have any ideas??  I am still unsure whether my XK531 is properly programmed.  I've tried it numerous times, but never get the full 3 second final confirmation from the security light.  The last time I tried it the light blinked for an eternity without final confirmation.  Could this be causing my no-start problem?  When using the remote start, should the vehicle run for a few seconds then shut down if the transponder is wrong, or not present, similar to the factory alarm? Or will there be no attempt to start at all, similar to what I am experiencing?

Miller
monty_77 
Copper - Posts: 491
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2009
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: January 07, 2011 at 7:14 PM / IP Logged  
not sure but you should have more then 3-4 volts on the starter wire
they can do both for an imobilizer problem. to see if that's the problem unhook the RF Ring from the bypass and just insert a key(don't turn it on) and if it start you bypass is the problem. if not your RS is the problem
for you vehicle i only show one dk. blue ignition. one BLACK/ orange accessory. and a yellow start wire
red and pink/black should be battery.
millrtyme 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2011
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: January 08, 2011 at 3:57 PM / IP Logged  
I did eventually solve my no remote start problem.  I had the heavy RED / black wire that operates the accessory and starter relays connected to switched 12v rather than constant 12v.  After correcting this, everything works great.  The XK531 obviously did get programmed as it seems to work as it should.  I connected the parking lights according to the installation manual with a 1.5K resistor in place of the fuse under the RCS cover.  Nothing better than the satisfaction of a successful installation.  Thanks for your help Monty 77. 
Miller
monty_77 
Copper - Posts: 491
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2009
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: January 08, 2011 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged  
your welcome

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