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2005 dodge durango remote starter bypass


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nmcgrawj 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2011
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 07, 2011 at 9:37 PM / IP Logged  
I am trying to get a better understanding for what is needed to wire my remote starter on a 05 durango.
In this thread( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=89045&DIR=N&fid=3 ), I read this:
 To disarm the factory security you need to pulse the bypass module, and the 1st, and 2nd ign all at the same time. Everyone here will tell you it can only be done with the factory remote....not true. If your R/S unit has a factory disarm...you can use a relay to get 12 volts for the 2 ign. wires. It's more than likely a NEG(-) pulse, split it, take one to the relays , and the other to the bypass. Use a diode to prevent anything from backing into the bypass module. (isolate the bypass module)
Which wire guide do i follow for the bypass? I ask because for a transponder system, it says 1 wire to 12 volts, the other to Ign 3 of the remote starter (or the neg. pulse mentioned above) and then you loop the transponder loop twice around the key ignition.
But with the above description, you arent sending a signal in that loop are you? That doesnt make sense unless I am supposed to use a different wiring setup on the bypass...other wise I wouldnt need it.
This is a cut from directwire 2004 durango wiring information posted here:
On vehicles without memory seats, the front door triggers are in the same plug as the rears. On vehicles with memory seats, the front door triggers are in the doors at the DMMM (Driver Memory Mirror Module), and PMMM (Passenger Memory Mirror Module).
Dome Supervision      yellow/orange       +       large 74 pin plug near fuse box
Trunk/Hatch Pin      PURPLE / orange       -       large 74 pin plug near fuse box
Hood Pin      PURPLE / lt. blue       -       hood pin switch
Trunk/Hatch Release      N/A             
Power Sliding Door      N/A             
Factory Alarm Arm      arms on lock with door open             
Factory Alarm Disarm      factory remote only             
Disarm No Unlock      with ignition and Sentry Key
So if I wire the remote starter remote into the locks, when I lock the car, it will arm the alarm. Then I can start the car using the wiring description above to bypass the alarm. And then use the remote starter unlock to unlock the doors when i walk up? (the factory key lock/unlock dont work once the car is running....i think)
I hope that makes sense. Just trying to finish up my research with these questions.
Thanks for any help!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 07, 2011 at 9:59 PM / IP Logged  
Why not use a bypass module like the ADS iDatalink ADS-DLSL CA2  ( http://www.idatalink.com/helpdesk/ ) ?  It will do a data type bypass ( so you won't lose a key ), the locks, the alarm and supply the door & trunk status and the brake & tach signals?  Cost is about $60, very reliable and will save you a bit of time.  
Soldering is fun!
nmcgrawj 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2011
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 07, 2011 at 10:06 PM / IP Logged  
I was unaware of that product and am not familiar with how it works. Where is it sold for $60? I found it for $75, but that site only lists the 07+ Aspen (assuming the aspen and durango are the same)
I'd consider paying the $60, but if there are options that are cheap and just a matter of wiring it up right, i will look into those first.
Thanks for the tip though, i am going to research that.
blanx218 
Silver - Posts: 654
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 08, 2011 at 9:06 PM / IP Logged  

There are a few things we need to know to give you better info.

1. what model system are you installing? knowing the system would help determine what wiring/modules would be needed/helpful. i would recommend a module for alot of reasons but mostly for ease of install.

2. Is this a Limited model or SLT. The SLT models had a transponder key as an option and you may not have a chip to bypass. It is standard in the Limited.

3. Does the car have memory seats? If not the lock/unlock wire is in the drivers door harness in the kick panel, not at the module in the door like ones with power seats

there are a few different options as far as a bypass module, if needed. some more expensive than others depending on what you need/want them to do.

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: November 09, 2011 at 7:25 AM / IP Logged  
All that stuff you're reading about factory disarm and arm and whatnot.....you should be able to avoid most/all of it anyway.
You have a remote-head key, right? So you don't need anything that does doorlocks, panic, none of that.
Get yourself a simple one-button starter. Avital 4113, Prestige APS901C, Pursuit PRO9056C..... there are many others.
The factory alarm automatically disarms when you start the engine, and therefore it'll also disarm when you turn on a (properly installed) remote starter.
All you should really need for remote start is the following:
---The correct constant, ignition, accessory(ies), and starter wire in the steering column.
---Brake
---Parking lights
---Ground
---Mount antenna
---Transponder key bypass, if you have a transponder.
Most Durangos I've seen have had the transponder, but I've seen one base model that didn't. It had a non-power driver seat, and single-zone climate control.
Turn on your ignition (don't start the engine), and look at all the warning lights that come on (and then go out) in the instrument cluster.
Look for a small red dot, about 2/3 the size of a pencil eraser. If you see that dot light up and then go out, you DO have a transponder for sure.
If you have two existing keys, you can get a bypass module like PKU-CH2, 556C, or just an aftermarket Chrysler key and a universal key-coffin box, and that'll be fairly cheap.
If you only have one key, there are some units available on idatalink.com and ifar.ca But be aware that the idatalink products need to be "flashed" with the firmware for your car, and their website only registers authorized dealers......if you buy any of these modules online, only buy from someone who will pre-flash it for you.
nmcgrawj 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2011
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 09, 2011 at 7:33 AM / IP Logged  
1.) it's a bulldog unit. Forget the model at the moment. I already have a 791 bypass that uses a key.
2.) I have a limited. -that's why I'm here lol.
3.) not sure what this changes. I even posted the info regarding the difference above. Its memory seats.
nmcgrawj 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2011
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 09, 2011 at 7:42 AM / IP Logged  
Yea I have the key with unlock/lock/panic built into the head of the key.
I have a spare key, but the point of my confusion was the wiring description posted above that many seem unfamiliar with. I'm trying to avoid buying another expensive coded key or module....if I can.
I'm pretty sure the factory remote stops working once the car is running...I will double check. If it doesn't, then that's perfect. If it does, I'd like to wire up the starter to be able to unlock the doors.
Thanks for the replies
nmcgrawj 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2011
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: November 09, 2011 at 7:49 AM / IP Logged  
Confirmed.
Once the car is running with the key in, the remote function does not work on the factory key.

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