idatalink bypass in an 01 grand cherokee

Hi, thanks for this forum and thanks to all the contributors, it's a great resource. I've done most of my research before attempting this project here and at the manufactures sites. Here's my situation: I'm installing a r/s (Avital 4103) into an '01 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. The vehicle has a factory alarm and the SKIS system (Jeep gray key). I'm using the iDatalink ADS DLSL CH1 Solo bypass unit and the included transponder ring wire. (Not sure why the install guide says it's an optional separate part but mine included one). The r/s and bypass unit are linked together with wire to wire connections, and the following functions seem to perform well: lock & alarm arm unlock & alarm disarm parking lights flash horn honks vehicle will start from r/s with a Jeep key in the ignition cylinder (in the off position and in the on position) However, the vehicle will start and immediately stop running if I don't have the key in the ignition. Also the sentry light (key with "not" symbol over it) will flash on the instrument cluster during vehicle start. So, aside from this problem, the bypass unit seems to be functioning normally. I've re-set it to factory and re-programmed it a number of times, the status LED follows the install guide exactly. During reset it flashes red, then goes steady red, then goes out, then blinks green 1x. I press the prog button to make it go to 2x which is "standard" or wire-to-wire mode. Then I put the key in the ignition and turn the key to "on" - the LED goes steady red, then steady green for about 2 secs, then off. I believe this means the bypass unit has learned the key code at that point. Then, I press start on the remote start fob - the status LED on the bypass unit starts to blink a steady green, and then I have the symptoms above - good start if the key is in the ignition, start then stop with sentry flashing if the key is absent. According to the forums over at iDataLink's site (12voltdata.com) the ignition signal for the bypass unit should come from the vehicle ignition wire at the SKIM wiring harness (plastic box with plastic ring that goes around the key cylinder in the steering column). I've connected the pink ignition (+) wire on the bypass unit to the blue/white wire in the vehicle SKIM wiring harness on the steering column (Pin 3). I've verified with a DMM that this wire is normally at 0 volts but goes to 12 during start (both remote start and normal key start) and while the vehicle is running. Also, I am using the blue status (-) output wire from the r/s unit to supply the blue/white "ground when running" wire on the bypass unit. I've also tried various positions and number of windings for the transponder wire around the ignition key cylinder - 3 to 5 windings, way back at the base of the cylinder, around the plastic bezel near the front, in front of the bezel way out by the face, you name it. Each time I change this I also reset the bypass unit to factory and re-learn the key and each time the idatalink seems to learn the key (steady green LED). I'm suspicious that it's some trouble with the transponder wire or maybe an important signal wire that I'm missing, but I've tried to cover all the bases and tested everything that I can think of. I keep coming back to the fact that the remote start will work fine with a key in, but fail when it's out. Does anyone here have any ideas or suggestions on what I can try next? Thanks!

From your programming description, I'm not sure if you are doing the entire process.There are two parts to programming the ADS bypass module to the Jeep.  The part you did handlesthe locks/alarms, etc.  There is a second part where you add the bypass transponder to the vehicleas a valid key transponder.  Check out page 9 of the #1857 install guide.  You will need two workinggrey keys to add the bypass to the vehicle and a small jumper wire to power on the ignition circuitat the proper time.  The vehicle actually chimes to confirm the addition of the bypass transponder.Soldering is fun!

That module learns the rf frequency in your keys which means you are programming it to the vehicle as another key.  In order to do so, you must have 2 keys already that start the vehicle.  The install guide for that bypass explains it to a T.  When you go through the factory reset on the bypass then throw the key in the ign.  and turn to on/run, you are only teachin the module the data bus signal.  Page 9 of the install guide explains how to program the actual key portion of the install. Advanced

We think the same, Mr. Dasbogie...... 

Install guide #1857

Soldering is fun!

Wow. Thanks for the quick replies. And at the exact same time too, LOL. So, I was definitely using the wrong install guide from iDataLink, that's my fault. I had poked around their support site and found the closest match to the ADS-DLSL-CH1, which was document #149. It turns out that document is really for "ADS-DLSL-CH" (no trailing 1) and maybe is a general purpose document for the various CH products like CH3, CH6, etc. That explains why the copy I was working from said the transponder ring was an optional part too :) For anyone who needs this in the future, the URL from idatalink should be https://idatalink.com/common/file/get-install-guide?id=1857&x=21&y=6 I just downloaded and read through the #1857 document and BAM! Right there on page 9 it has the detailed instructions on how to do this procedure. Thanks a lot kreg357 and dasboogie for the great reply. I have two followup questions related to that document:

1. Step 9 describes powering the ignition with a fused test lead and shows a picture of a lead across 2 wires coming directly out of the key cylinder. I'm assuming that's supposed to be a constant 12V source and then whatever lead would normally be powered by a key turning in the cylinder? Does anyone know the color of the wires? I'm not near the vehicle right now but I can research this tonight when I'm back at it.
2. I bought the vehicle used a couple of years ago. The previous owner only had one factory key. I've since had a copy made at a local hardware store that charges 70 bucks for a duplicate of a chipped key. That key works fine to start and run the vehicle, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the procedure for learning a new key in the Jeep needs two distinct, already-programmed keys. If this is the case, am I looking at a trip to the dealer and having them program in a new, second factory key before I can finish this learning part?

Again, thanks guys for the quick, informative and accurate answers to my question.

The wiring between the ADS DLSL CH1 and the ADS ALSL CH is very different.  Double

check you wiring.

Yes, you will need two unique working transponder keys to add another transponder.  A

clone key will not work.  The other way is to "upgrade" to the ADS ALSL CH which isa "Data"  type bypass and only needs one key to program.

Yes, use any +12V constant source to power the Ignition wire during programming. 

12volts     red and pink/black (+)          ignition harness  Ignition    dk. blue (+)                              ignition harness

Soldering is fun!

Thanks again kregs357. That wiring info saves me quite a bit of digging around. I still have the ignition harness exposed so this should be fairly easy. I wonder what the dealer will think if I show up to get a new factory key and there's a pile of spaghetti on the floor under the steering wheel? Sigh. I guess I'll do a temp. cleanup job and put the trim panels back on before taking it in.. You're really a big help to users on this forum and I do appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. If you're ever in the Detroit area hit me up and I'll buy you a cold beverage of your choice :)

I'm not sure where  you are located but you may want to call local locksmiths as they might be able to get you the 2nd key a bit cheaper than the dealer.  I know in my area there are a couple locksmiths with programmers that can do a few makes chipped keys and do it a little cheaper than the dealer. Advanced

Thanks dasboogie, I wish I had checked back on the forum before heading to the dealer @ lunchtime (Detroit Area). Well, I'm in the service waiting room right now and they're programming a new key. 112.00 total, key and "labor". The cloning @ the local hardware was 70.00. So ouch, if I could have checked around and found a local locksmith I might have saved 30-40 bucks. Shoot! I'll try that programming procedure this evening and report back to this thread with results. Based on kreg357's advice I double checked the wiring and fortunately on my vehicle it looks like everything is the same between the two transponders. I've got high hopes that programming will do the trick! Thanks guys, talk to you soon.

OK - I'm happy to report total success after the transponder was finally learned by the vehicle. I did have a very tough time completing the programming however. The programming procedure goes like this:

1. Put in key 1, turn to on, wait till sentry light goes off, turn off and remove key 1
2. Put in key 2, turn on, wait for sentry light to go off, come back on and start to blink, then turn off and remove key 2
3. Hold the transponder up to the key cylinder, engage jumper to provide 12V to ignition circuit
4. Sentry light blinks to show the car is in programming mode, will go steady and then turn off when transponder is learned

I kept getting stuck on step 4 where it would blink for a LONG time. The first time I tried it, I held the darn bypass unit to that key cylinder for 15 minutes before I wised up. Here's what I did to make it work: The instructions in document 1857 show a picture of the black plastic body of the bypass module being held up to the key cylinder. Unfortunately I believe that on the unit I have, the actual RFID chip is wired directly on the black transponder wire that goes around the cylinder when installed. There is a shrink-tube wrapped part about 3 inches away from the plug where it goes into the bypass unit, and that part is what I was finally able to get to program. I just held that piece of the wire on the key cylinder while completing step 3 above and then within 10 seconds or so the vehicle recognized and learned the transponder and step 4 completed itself. Once that was done, two turns of the wire around the front-most part of the key cylinder did the trick. The wire is between the heavy black plastic collar and the plastic ring of the SKIM. The remote start works every time now, and all the features I care about are fully functional. Thanks again you two for the right help at the right time. the12volt.com is lucky to have you :)