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avital 4103 in 2000 expedition


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jbird80 
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Joined: December 10, 2011
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: December 10, 2011 at 4:26 PM / IP Logged  

hello everyone , I,m new here and I know I will find the help I need , So thanks in advanced.  Problem is I'm installing my avital 4130 in a 2000 ford expedition 4.6l and when i press the remote start button all that happens is it just bumps the starter for half a second. I'm lost as all heck now. I'm using a dei 555p bypass.

Thanks!!!!
Twelvoltz 
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Joined: March 24, 2005
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Posted: December 10, 2011 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged  
What did you use for a tach connection?
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
jbird80 
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Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2011
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: December 10, 2011 at 4:47 PM / IP Logged  

I could not find the pink/white wire they say is in the front of engine in a 3 pin connecter under air intake , so I did some reading and seen other people say use one of the coil pack wires ( not the GREEN/ red wire) so thats what i've done

Thanks!!!!
Chris Luongo 
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Posted: December 10, 2011 at 5:24 PM / IP Logged  
Did you "learn" the tach rate to the unit too? Start engine, press and hold valet button, wait for red LED on brain to come on solid.
I always forget about DEI products and Fords.....but they either don't like coil wires or don't like fuel injector wires. I always forget which, but one is bad and the other is OK.
Another thing you could do is reprogram the 4103 for Virtual Tach, which actually works quite well. Or set for Voltage Sensing, and set the crank time for 1.0 seconds.
Even if you plan to eventually find and use the correct tach wire, you can use Virtual Tach or Voltage Sensing as a troubleshooting tool........
If you switch to one of those modes and it works, you know your installation is good, and you can keep hunting for a good tach wire.
On the other hand, if it still won't work, you know there is something wrong with your installation, that you can/should troubleshoot and fix before worrying about tach.
jbird80 
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Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2011
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: December 10, 2011 at 6:15 PM / IP Logged  

well after trying what you said chris , with the coil pack the led light would not go constant , but switched wire to odd fuel injector wire and tryed it again. this time the led light stayed constand and the parking lights flashed once , so i,m assuming that the tach is working properly now but still just bumps the starter for half a second . tryed with key in and key out thinking that would eliminate a prob with bypass.There are a couple wires i'm not sure if i need to hook up. ....

primary harness (H1) wiring diagram

h1/3     yellow      (+) ignition out (to alarm) 

h1/5      oarnge     (-) ground when locked

and then on the 4-pin satellite harness I only have the blue  (-) status output wire connected to the blue status wire on the main box

Thanks!!!!
chev104275 
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Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 10, 2011 at 8:06 PM / IP Logged  
Can you list how you have everything wired?   Maybe you have an acc wire hooked to an ingition circuit causing the truck not start
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
jbird80 
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Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2011
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: December 10, 2011 at 9:10 PM / IP Logged  

h1/1    light GREEN/ black  (-) factory alarm disarm  ...... to factory disarm  dark GREEN/ purple  drivers kick panel

h1/2   GREEN / WHITE (-) factory rearm  .....  didnt use

h1/3     yellow  (+)  ignition out (to alarm) ........didnt use

h1/4    WHITE/ blue  (-) activation input ............. didnt use

h1/5 orange  (-) ground when locked............didnt use

h1/6  brown  (-) horn output.............. didnt hook up yet

h1/7  RED / white  (-) trunk release output...... didnt use

h1/8 black   ground    ........... grounded to body under dask where another ground strap was already

h1/9 white (+/-) light flash........... to brown (+) wire parking lights  at drivers kick panel

4-pin satellite harness

1- blue (-) status output...........connected to blue status wire from 555p bypass harness

2- orange (-) accessory output.........didnt use

3- purple (-) starter output ...............didnt use

4- pink (-) ignition output...............didnt use

heavy guage relay wiring

1- pink (+) output to ignition circuit............ to blue/light green    ignition

2- purple (+) output to starter circuit............... to RED / light blue   starter

3- orange (+) output to accessory circuit................to RED / black accessory

4- red (+)  (30A) high current 12 input........to GREEN/ purple  constant 12v+

5- pink/white  (+) programmable output for accessory or ignition.............to gray / YELLOW  ignition 2

6- red (+)   (30A) high current 12 input........to yellow constant 12v+

door lock harness , 3 pin connector

1- blue (-) unlock output..........pink/light green(-)  keyless module under dash

2- empty.........not used

3- green (-) lock output .........pink / YELLOW (-)  keyless module under dash

remote start harnes (H2) wiring diagram

h2/1  BLACK/ white (-) neutral safty switch input................ used supplied toggle switch ,one end to this wire and other end of switch to same RED / light blue wire where starter wire is connected

h2/2  violet/white tach ............ to odd wire on fuel injector

h2/3  brown  (+) brake switch shutdown wire.................light green wire on brake switch

h2/4  gray (-) hood pinswitch .............. mounted under hood

h2/5  blue/white (-) 200ma 2nd status/ rear defogger output................................didnt use

also here is for the 555p bypass

1- red constant 12v

2-black bround .... existing ground strap

3-blue  (-) remote start input.........to blue status wire from 4-pin satellite harness

4- green  not used

5- yellow/black  immobilizer data tap............to black wire in the 4-pin connecter on key switch

6- yellow not used

7- brown  immobilizer sync tap ......................to orange wire  in the 4-pin connecter on key switch

8- pink  ignition (car side) .......... for this i cut the blue ignition wire  in the 4-pin connecter on key switch and connected this wire on end going to car

9- pink/white (key side) ............ this wire to other end of the blue wire going to key tumbler.

tried to be as detailed as possible, let me know if more info needed

Thanks!!!!
chev104275 
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Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 11, 2011 at 5:41 AM / IP Logged  
Try moving the h2/1 wire from the starter wire to ground. Maybe the switch is in the on position and when you remote start the truck you take the ground away long enough to shut the truck down. Also did you meter you ingition wires before connecting to them I'm pretty sure the RED / black wire its in ingition wire not acc. There is also a BLACK/ green wire that I don't see in your list I always power everything that the key would.
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
ziggyb222 
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Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: December 11, 2011 at 7:19 AM / IP Logged  
I would think the toggle switch going to that starter wire is the issue.. Disconnect the end to the starter wire and connect it to ground.. then try it!!!!
 
jbird80 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2011
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: December 11, 2011 at 11:08 AM / IP Logged  
well toggle switch to starter wire was definitely the problem . swapped it to ground and works like a charm. Thank you all for the useful info , I knew I would find the answers herre!! Have a merry christmass all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!!!!

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