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2010 traverse remote start


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zfreak_1125 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: July 19, 2012
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: August 04, 2012 at 7:59 PM / IP Logged  
Hey guys...new to the forum and am looking for some help with a remote start install. Done a couple of installs on older vehicles, but this will be my first install on a vehicle with a bypass. The vehicle is a 2010 Chevrolet Traverse 2LT. I'm installing a Viper VSS3000 Smart Start and am using an iDatalink ADS-AL CA. I think I've got a pretty good idea of what to connect where, but I'm looking for a sanity check.
I've got the wiring info provided by shaggy12volt in this post: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126365&KW=traverse. I've read through the iDatalink install manual and the Viper install guide, I'm a little bit confused. I'm planning on doing a Type 3 wire-to-wire install. With the bypass module, do any of the remote starter wires other than the heavy gauge stuff get connected to the vehicle, such as the tach signal wire, or does the bypass module send all that info to the remote start module via the SWC data connection to the vehicle?
Also, looking at the iData install guide, all of the wires that it says are "Required" to be connect to the remote starter don't exist on my remote starter, such as "E-brake Status (-) Input" and the "Tailgate Window Release (-)". Could that the E-brake could be used as the neutral safety (-) input on the remote starter because it doesn't list that on the iData module? What should I do about the tailgate window thing?
One other question, looking at the Traverse wiring info sheet, the second starter, second accessory and keysense connections are confusing me. The second accessory and keysense both say "Same as second starter", so does that mean they all get hooked to the second starter output on the VSS3000? Also since they are all + systems I've got to use a relay to reverse the polarity of the second starter output, correct? If they all get hooked to the same wire, then I have to diode isolate each of the wires, correct?
The doorlocks are slightly confusing as well since I have the express up/down option. I understand that I need to 5-wire the front doors using relays like the Traverse wiring info sheet says, but how do I trigger the rear doors?
On the ADS-AL CA, where should the Yellow/Black & the Yellow/Red get connected? Diagram shows to the remote starter module, but the VSS3000 doesn't have inputs for those.
Here's the list of connections that I think should be made. Any info on right/wrong would be appreciated. Thanks for all the help
Matt
H1/1     to ????
H1/2     to ????
H1/3     to ????
H1/4     to Blue/White      on ADS-AL CA
H1/5     to ????
H1/6     to Vehicle horn
H1/7     to RED / White      on ADS-AL CA
H1/8     to Black       on ADS-AL CA & Vehicle Ground
H1/9     to Vehicle lights
H2/1     to Pink      on ADS-AL CA & Vehicle Ignition
H2/2     to Vehicle Starter
H2/3     to Vehicle ACC
H2/4     to Vehicle +12V
H2/5     N/A
H2/6     to Vehicle +12V
H3/1     to GREEN/ Red       on ADS-AL CA
H3/2     to PURPLE / White on ADS-AL CA
H3/3     to Gray/Red       on ADS-AL CA
H3/4     to Green       on ADS-AL CA
H3/5     N/A
Door Lock Connector
Pin 1     (-) Unlock to Blue/Black on ADS-AL CA
Pin 2     Empty
Pin 3     (-) Lock   to GREEN/ Black on ADS-AL CA
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: October 30, 2012 at 7:35 AM / IP Logged  
The bypass will do all the functions listed via data through vehicle databus. So door locks from remote start will be connected to bypass not the vehicle. Yellow/Black & the Yellow/Red are for alarm entry monitoring. As far as the bypass goes wether you do Data or Wired to the remote start, it will still be data to the vehicle.
H1/1     (-) Unlock to Blue/Black on ADS-AL CA
H1/2     (-) Lock   to GREEN/ Black on ADS-AL CA
H1/3     N/A
H1/4     N/A
H1/5     N/A
H1/6     to Vehicle horn
H1/7     to RED / White      on ADS-AL CA
H1/8     to Black       on ADS-AL CA & Vehicle Ground
H1/9     to Vehicle lights (-)
H2/1     to Pink      on ADS-AL CA & Vehicle Ignition
H2/2     to Vehicle 2nd Starter +9.6k ohms
H2/3     to Vehicle ACC
H2/4     to Vehicle +12V
H2/5     to Vehicle ACC +6.3k ohms (Change from Second Ignition to Accessory in remote start settings)
H2/6     to Vehicle +12V
H3/1     to Ground
H3/2     to PURPLE / White on ADS-AL CA
H3/3     to Gray/Red       on ADS-AL CA
H3/4     to Green       on ADS-AL CA
H3/5     N/A
Door Lock Connector
Pin 1     N/A
Pin 2
Pin 3     N/A
Satelite Harness
Pin 1      to Blue/White      on ADS-AL CA
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: October 30, 2012 at 7:44 AM / IP Logged  
If you went Data mode you would need 10 less wires hooked up between the remote starter and the bypass. It a personal preference as to which way you want to go.
blanx218 
Silver - Posts: 654
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 30, 2012 at 10:41 PM / IP Logged  

Dont connect the H1/1 and H1/2 factory arm/disarm to the bypass. the doors will unlock each time it remote starts. Use the blue & green wires from the 3 pin connector

blanx218 
Silver - Posts: 654
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 30, 2012 at 11:05 PM / IP Logged  

Connect H1/6 - H1/9 as you have them. The rest of the wires in this harness will not be needed.

Connect H2/6 & H2/4 to a constant +12v source and H2/1 Pink to the ADS-ALCA and the vehicles ignition wire. Connect H2/3 to the vehicles accessory wire

Connect from the 3pin lock harness blue to blue/black and green to GREEN/ black on the ALCA

Connect H3/1 to ground or supplied toggle switch for a manual shutdown. H3/2 H3/3 & H3/4 as you have them

Connect blue (-) status output from the 4 pin harness to  the blue/white on the ALCA. The other 3 wires will not be used.

Basically follow Install type 3 from the idatalink website to a T and you will have every connection you need. You will also need to take the vehicle to an authorized DEI dealer to have the SmartStart activated.

lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: November 01, 2012 at 9:25 AM / IP Logged  
The factory alarm is "FIRST PULSE DISARMS SECOND PULSE UNLOCKS". So you can use the alarm/disarm connections. If you want to do keyless and set the remote start to single pluse for the arm/disarm and double pulse for lock/unlock. So you will need to connect all four wires to the bypass and diode isolate the lock and alarm wires, for the W2W hookup. If you do data you won't need to hook up any of them.

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