2003 Ram 2500 Remote Start / Alarm Plan

Hi All, I picked up a 2003 Ram 2500 off craigslist. It only came with one gray key and one key fob. It has power door locks all around. No oem alarm is installed; i locked the doors using the fob and used the key to open driver door a few minutes later and no alarm went off. My main concern is that the guy I purchased the truck from has another key and can just come up and drive away in the truck. Will installing an aftermarket alarm system prevent the original owner from gaining access to the truck using the oem fob and gray key? Is there someway I can get away from using the gray keys(chipped) and move to the black ones(without chip)? Is that the function of a bypass? I am willing to change ignition lock, door locks, and tailgate if necessary just so original owner is totally locked out. (I am not comfortable with the idea of having just one key and one fob). Additionally, I am willing to hit craigslist and look for someone parting out a Ram so I can get a different set of gray key/fob combo along with matching ignition lock, door locks, tailgate, and whatever oem comp/control module needed. I found wiring diagrams for truck and lots of threads on installs. I am also looking at install on Bulldog Security Alarms website because it has a lot of nice pics over there. I am looking to do a few things on the truck:       Install Alarm       Install Remote Start       Change keys/cylinders on ignition lock, doors, and tailgate (if necessary) Still in research mode for what alarm system to buy. I may just go with Viper cause they are at Best Buy. I plan on doing install myself. Any responses are greatly appreciated. Regards, watermelon

The better way to test for a Factory Alarm is to lock the truck with the FOB or with the door panel switch while the door is open.  Then

wait a few minutes and open the drivers door using the inside door handle.

If the previous owner has a working key, there is no way to prevent him from using the key to unlock / open the door short of re-keying

all the exterior lock cylinders.

Adding a remote start system with keyless entry and alarm will help.  With a good after-market system, you can have the alarm go off

if a door is opened prior to dis-arming the after-market alarm system, which can only be done using the after-market system FOB's.  Additionally, you can add the "starter-kill" feature to prevent the engine from cranking while the after-market system is armed or in an alarm condition.

Viper system are good, basically the industry standard.  Be forewarned that they come with a very brief 2 page "install guide".  You

might be able to find a full install guide in the Downloads Section, depending on which system you choose.  Of course, there are somevery knowledgeable forum members that can provide assistance during your install.

I don't recommend disabling the transponder based ignition immobilizer system.  It's a nice safety feature.  If the truck did get stolen

and the insurance company discovered the disabled system, they might not be very happy ( or pay the claim ).

With only one key, you will not be able to add another working transponder key.  A dealer or sophisticated locksmith can add another

working transponder key ( for a price ).  I like to have at least 2 working keys, so I would go to the dealer, have a second key addedand see if they can delete any other transponder chips from the system.  That way the key the seller has won't be able to start the truck.

Soldering is fun!

Thank you for the reply. I'm already scouring Craigslist for scrapped Rams. I'm doing other reasearch on what I need to pull out (security module and matching ignition lock / door locks). Will look into getting things rekeyed. I'm really trying to avoid a trip to the dealer. Will call dealer anyways to get more info on procedure. Great point on disabling the transponder security feature. I won't do it. Thanks. Yep, Viper install sheet not a step-by-step hand-holding deal. Still in research mode. I'll have a better feel for things after more reasearch. One quick question if I may: What does a remote start bypass do? I guess it doesn't bypass the oem key transponder like I was suspecting Thanks again, Watermelon

Yes, the bypass module does just that, bypasses the transponder ignition immobilizer system in your truck during a remote start.  You will

need one to remote start the truck along with the chosen Viper system.  Most of the popular bypass modules can be programmed with just one key.  The key is not kept under the dash but returned to your key chain for regular use after programming.

Here is a link to a good bypass module ( Fortin INT-SL+ ) :

http://fortin.ca/download/46281/int-sl%2B_revj.pdfYou would use the Connection 6 wiring diagram in W2W mode ( without Data-Link ).  Remember that for your truck, this bypass module only handles the transponder bypass function and not the convenience features also shown. For your install only the INT-SL+ Pink, Blue,Purple, Yellow and Yellow/Black wires must be connected.  Also needed are the Red and Black wires on the 4 Pin connector.This module is similar to the XpressKit DLPKGM bypass module :( http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7052&productid=125&firmwareid=1633 )

Might be cheaper to get a locksmith to re-key to door lock cylinders by pulling the cylinders and bringing them to him.  You would keep

those new keys ( without chips ) for emergencies and use the keyless entry function of the Viper remotes to lock and unlock the truck.  The ignition key cylinder could remain the same and with the Vipers "starter kill" option render the key the previous owner has useless.

Soldering is fun!

Amazing info Kreg357. I appreciate the info and direction very much. Let me know if this install plan sounds right: First: Work on Viper install first - get doors locking/unlocking and alarm sounding, lights flashing Second: Install Fortin/Xpress module - get key programmed Third: Work on remote start function What do you think? Wow...sounds like an all weekend project if all goes right. I will probably pull door locks as I have to work on power window switches that are sticking anyhow. Thanks for the help again, watermelon

I would plan on spending the entire weekend with this project.  That is assuming you have gathered all the necessary

components and have the proper tools ready.  You will need a soldering gun / iron with solder and a roll of quality electrictape, a Digital Multi Meter, tie wraps and some basic tools for vehicle dash disassembly.

The step by step approach is nice but will cause a few minor problems.  Unless you spend a lot more effort on that install

method, the final result won't look as professional ( neat ).  Additionally, working under the dash to add modules on and makethose connections will be a lot more difficult.  My preferred method is to do as much as possible on the bench.  Plenty ofroom, good light and proper tools at hand. 

Your truck has several unique needs. 

1. With the one wire door lock system, a Directed 451M door lock module will probably be required for the relays and resistors.. 

2. The truck has two Ignition wires and possibly multiple Accessory wires.  These Accessory wires, if needed, will require       additional 30/40 Amp SPDT relays with fuse holders appropriate fuses.  3. The Parking Lights will require a relay and resistor.  See DEI Tech Tip 1082 for more info.  The resistor is available in the      451M door lock module package.

I would double check to ensure the truck does not have the Factory Alarm system installed. 

Bulldog Security has a fairly complete wiring guide with notes and photos for your truck.  They also have additional diagrams

for the locks, parking lights and factory alarm system.  Some of this info is specifically tailored for their systems but is still helpful.  Here is a link :  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

ReadyRemote has a wiring guide for your truck, too.  It shows some differences so careful testing with a Digital Multi Meter

is necessary to locate and verify all vehicle wires.  Here is a link to ReadyRemote :      http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Dodge&model=RAM

Soldering is fun!

Very cool. Thanks again. I'm still digging in. I do plan on double checking the Factory Alarm situation and I am going over your steps 1,2, and 3 closely. I do have a FLuke 87 DMM that I use on a daily basis at work so I am pretty good with that. Also, I did work with some relays in the past for a carburetor-to-fuel injection system that I did on a classic car so I have seen them once or twice before. I am building up my shopping cart at Amazon as I do more research. Your help is appreciated! Thanks again, Watermelon

Update: So I checked the truck for an OEM alarm system as mentioned above. It actually has one. How does this change my approach to installing an aftermarket alarm system? My goal is still to keep the original owner from walking up with the "lost" transponder key / key fob combination and driving off with the truck. Do I need to disable the OEM Alarm somehow? Thanks again, watermelon

If I were doing this truck, I would be using a full featured bypass module.  My "go-to" brand is iDatalink.  Very reliable and easy to use.

They offer a full-featured bypass module that does a whole lot more than just the transponder bypass.  If you can find a online sourcethat will flash the module with the correct firmware for your truck, the FLCAN w/DL-CH6 firmware would simplify the install and make your life much easier.  It will handle the door locks and Factory Alarm for you plus provide a Tach signal, the Brake signal & the Door Status signal and go DBI D2D to greatly reduce the Viper to bypass module inter-connections.  Here is a link for more info : http://www.flashlogic.com/product/product/product_id/51/vehicle_make_id/10/vehicle_year_id/2003/vehicle_model_id/50/package_type/0/vehicle_id/1814

Without that module, you will need and couple of extra relays to interface the Viper with the trucks Factory Alarm.  Bulldog Security

shows a relay diagram for Disarm and ReadyRemote gives the resistor value for the Factory Arm portion of the equation.  Similar tothe one-wire lock setup.  You could use another 451M module for this or just the extra resistors from the lock 451M and some relays.

Soldering is fun!

Ok. Thanks again. Doing a bunch a research and cross referencing. I am going with a Viper 5806v, the Fortin INT-SL+, and the FLCAN. Getting most stuff off Amazon and Crutchfield. Going to add some misc. items too. I created an account on the Flashlogic site so it appears I can flash the FLCAN to the needed firmware. Will post any updates. Still looking through old threads for any additional info. Thanks again, watermelon