PKALL Will Not Program, 4105, 06 Mustang

Hello all, I posted my diagram on here earlier but managed to get everything hooked up. All the functionality of the Viper is working fine except I cannot get the PKALL to work. I have the following connections for it: Purple white (RX) - gray orange @ immobilizer harness Yellow black (TX) - white light green @ immobilizer harness Blue white (While running status) - blue white @ viper harness Pink (ignition) - white yellow @ ignition switch Have confirmed all connections are working with multimeter. I initially tried in D2D (had no luck) and then tried hardwiring the red on D2D harness to +12v and black to ground, not using the other two connections (also had no luck). When trying to program the unit I do exactly as the manual says but the light has never done anything except remain solid red. When trying to use the remote starter without the key in the ignition the security light flashes. With the key in the ignition and turned to accessory the remote start works fine. The only thing I can think of is that I initially thought I could program my car with only 1 key and I tried that a few times before realizing it needed 2 keys. I had read on one thread about the unit becoming 'locked out' or filling up some kind of key-database? on your cars computer that has to be cleared by a dealer. I have no idea what to do. Thanks.

A few thoughts ... The Ford PATS3 system can have a total of 8 or 10 ignition keys programmed before it is full. The key should not have to be turned to ACC for a successful R/S, just fully inserted but not turned. If it needs to be turned, you have a wiring error but your list looks OK. Did you power both thick Red 4105 +12V input wires? The PKALL wiring looks good, too. The vehicles RX and TX colors are correct. Double check your two ignition keys. The best scenario would be both factory original. If you are using a non-Ford key and it was a clone and not a unique master, you would not be able to program the PKALL. If that is OK ( both original Ford keys ), then it is the procedure timing. Sometimes you have to insert the first key, turn to ON and wait for the Security light to go out, then remove the key and count to 3 and insert the second key, same routine. With all the issues you are having, I would go with the manual transmission routine of jumping 12V to the White/Yellow ignition wire instead of using a remote start as the last step. Also, after the programming procedure is finished, wait a couple of minutes before attempting a R/S test.Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the response, I fixed some of my questions in that list and the only wires that are not hooked up and confirmed working via multimeter are anti grind, tach, and hood pin. Could the PATS become full from only using the same 2 keys in an attempt to program it incorrectly? (I am not sure how the PKALL works with PATS) You are right, it does not need to be turned. It works with the key just sitting in the barrel. Both keys are the Ford original my car came from a Ford dealer to me. Both large guage +12V wires are attached the the two +12V green/purple wires on the ignition harness. (Only one is always on, the other is +12V upon key insertion) What I have done: (Per PKALL manual: unplug wiring, hold down button, insert wires, then release button) Key 1 turn to accessory, wait for security light on dash to go off, take key out Wait for security light to come back on Key 2 turn to accessory, wait for security light on dash to go off, take key out Within a few seconds press remote start button Accessory will turn on and security light will flash on dash, leading to nothing. Solid red on PKALL the whole time. If you see no further problems per this post, I'll give the jumper method a try tomorrow.

If your programming steps are accurately reported above, you probably didn't add any "keys" to the PATS system. Review the PKALL wiring diagram and notice that the Pink wire is connected to the cars Ignition wire. Holding the PKALL button and plugging in the harnesses ( in the correct order ) resets the PKALL and starts its' programming sequence. Two things are happening here at the same time. With the keys, you are going through the steps to add another key to the PATS system. If you had purchased and new transponder key off EBay and had it cut for your car, after the second factory key step, you could insert the new key, turn it to ON/RUN and the car would read and add that new key to the PATS system. The second thing going on is the PKALL programming. As pointed out above, the PKALL is connected to the vehicles Ignition wire. Once set into programming mode, it "watches" the ignition wire. The third time it sees the ignition wire come ON and GWR, it injects its PATS transponder code into the RX/TX wires. The cars PATS system is in Learn Mode after the two unique key sequence and is looking for a new transponder chipped key in the key cylinder and turned to ON. It sees and accepts the PKALL output as a new key. The PKALL has no way to energize the Ignition wire even though it is connected to it ( that connection is for input only ), so you must use the R/S system to energize it or use a jumper. If you are only turning the ignition key to the ACC position, the PKALL is never seeing the PATS new key programming sequence. Bottom line, you must turn the keys to the ON/RUN position and see the instrument cluster energize during this process. If you use the Manual Transmission step to program the PKALL, remember to press the button once and then apply the +12V jumper to the Ignition wire. The ten LED blinks signaling successful programming usually happen immediately and are very fast blinks. If you are still having problems, put a meter on the PKALL Pink wire and verify +12V when the ignition key is at ON/RUN.Soldering is fun!

I have tried every iteration of this now and confirmed with multimeter. My accessory causes the cars cluster to light up and turns off the security light but I am now fully starting it just to make sure. The pink wire on the PKALL is getting a +12v signal from the ignition. I tried doing the jump method, as well as switching back to D2D cable rather than hard wiring. I tried playing with different timings on the sequence. Every time I have attempted it in any shape or form the PKALL remains solid red and the security light on my car flashes when the remote tries to start it (indicating the security is not being met)

After re-reading you post I noticed a possible major issue. While it will require some re-wiring and extending a couple of wires, it is important. The wires at the ignition switch harness are quite thin. You need to make the 4105's thick Red +12V input wires connections at the SJB. The SJB is in the passenger kick panel. Here the info from Bulldog Security : 12 VOLT CONSTANT     GRAY/BLUE, TAN/BLACK, DARK GREEN     @ SJB, GRAY 36-PIN PLUG, PINS 31, 32, 11 Pick any two. You can also fuse them down to 15 or 20 amps. The other issue is that one of those Red wires is currently connected to the vehicles Keysense wire. A big no-no. You mentioned that it only has +12V when the key is in the ignition, which finally clicked with me. Those two Red 4105 wires must get a +12V constant input. Soldering is fun!

Gotcha thanks, I wired the two red 12V using a larger gauge wire to the SJB, both now receiving +12V constant confirmed by multimeter. No connections are going to the green/purple +12v/keysense on the ignition barrel now. I confirmed with a multimeter the following: No key: +12V to both reds @ viper, +12v red @ PKALL, 0 pink, purple, and orange @ viper, 0 pink @ PKALL Upon turning to accessory: +12V pink @ viper, +12v pink @ PKALL, +12v orange @ viper Upon turning key to on: +12v pulse purple @ viper I tried numerous times with different timings and itierations to get the PKALL to program... This included putting keys in really quickly, waiting longer, hard wiring vs D2D, using accessory vs starting car, 12v jumping, still, the light on the PKALL has yet to do anything except remain solid red (even when jumping its supposed to blink and it didn't). quick video to show what I am doing, forgive me for portrait wasn't thinking. Video of PKALL

I still have some concerns with the ignition wires. Specifically, your test results. As 4105 inputs, The two Red wires should always have +12V, which you now show. The 4105 Orange wire should show +12V when the key is in the ACC and ON/RUN positions only. It will drop to 0V when the key is rotated to the START position. The Pink Ignition wire should show +12V in the ON/RUN and START positions only. I'm not sure why it shows +12V in the ACC position. Soldering is fun!

I just realized that I have made in error of my understanding of the terms acc/on/run/start/etc... I have been referring to on/run as accessory and thinking that on/run was start. So to update my chart it would be nothing @ accessory but the positive 12v power signals. +12v to accessory and ignition @ on/run. +12v pulse to start @ start. So that would remove most of the question about the ignition wires. I have reviewed the wiring a bunch of times now and it appears to be hooked up appropriately. Were you able to see the video of me attempting to program it? Does my timing appear to be correct or am I missing anything large?

Video is good and the timing looks OK. I have had them need quick RUN and OFF (before the Security light went out), too, but you tried that also. Just to verify, the PKALL Pink ignition input is connected to the same wire as the 4105 thick Pink Ignition wire at the main ignition switch harness and not at the 4 Pin transponder plug? I usually hot glue the bypass to the back of the R/S module and connect the bypass Ignition wire to the R/S Ignition wire within 3 inches. What happens if you unplug the PKALL, hold the ignition key head flat against the ignition cylinder ( not inserted ) and try a R/S? The only thing left would be a "hail Mary" where you swap the RX and TX wires. Then try the programming sequence. Your colors and Pin locations looked OK but... Short of that, PM me I'll we'll come up with another plan. Soldering is fun!