Neg pulse lock/unlock Help!

I am hooking up 2 relays for door lock actuators on my 85 300zx. I have an aftermarket alarm with 2 wires (1blk, 1 red) that says to " optional door lock module".  I am connecting 87 and 85 to 12v 10amp fused. 87a to ground. 30 to actuator, but I do not understand what to connect 86 too??  Negative pulse lock and unlock, are these wires in my kick panel? Are these wires on the alarm brain? My alarm has a green (-) grounding trigger, a violt (+) door trigger and a blue  (-) grounding instant trigger whick I connected to the motion sensor. I just dont get the neg pulse lock and unlock  stuff. Any help would be sooo appreciated.

Pin 86 on the relay should go to the negitive lock/unlock outputs from the alarm. You will have a relay for lock and one for unlock. Good luck with the install!Brian

owner/installer

Sight & Sound Car Stereo

"all electronic equipment runs off of smoke, once you let it out, it stops working"

The alarm has 1 red and 1 black "to optional door lock module".  Are these the lock/unlock wires you are referring to?  If so that is what I did and  there is no effect on door locks.  I noticed that the red and black wires alternate lighting up my tester when I push button on remote.  Am I just not getting this?

Just have to test all of the pins on the relay until you find the trouble. 1. Are 87 and 86 really 12 volts? (maybe you blew the fuse) 2. Is 87a really ground? 3. Is 86 really getting a ground when you operate the alarm? 4. What does 30 test as? It should rest as a ground, but turn to 12 volts when the alarm triggers the relay. 5. Can you hear/feel the relay click when you operate the alarm? 6. Go right to the actuator, and test the two wires there. They should both rest as ground, and one should turn to a positive when you arm the alarm.......the other one should be positive when you disarm.

OK... the 85, and many other years, 300ZX have a central locking system operated by the physical movement of the actuator itself. You have to add an actuator in the drivers door with the attatched rod fastened to the Lock/Unlock rod of the cars door. It's not a difficult procedure, and with some finesse, done in approximately 45 min. to an hour for most. Now.... moving on to the relays... The relays are needed to operate the aftermarket actuator, which in turn, operates the factory central locking system, which locks and unlocks both doors of the car that lives in the house that Jack built. Wire the Two relays as follow: (1) #86 and #87 of both relays to 12+ fused(15a) (2) #87a of both relays to chassis ground (3) #85 to red wire of paired RED / black alarm L/U output      #85 to black wire of paired RED / black alarm output (4) #30 to one of two wires to aftermarket actuator      #30 to the other wire of aftermarket actuator Many alarms provide both + and - pulsed output for both Lock and Unlock wires. Many factory door lock systems can accommodate both polarity pulses and recognize and operate off the particular polarity it needs. Don't ask about Chrysler.... They have a bunch of monkeys designing their systems to make life hard on alarm installers. Hope I didn't confuse you. I have complete faith in you.

Thanks! I will get busy on it first thing in the morning. I will let you know how it goes. As you can see I had 86 to alarm output and 85 and 87 to 12v.  I could hear the relays clicking but not working the doorlocks.  So, I will change the wires and this will fix the problem. Thank you sooo much!

1. Yes, I meant to say 87 and 86, sorry about that. Just because the fuse isn't blown still doesn't mean you really have power there----for example, you may have made a poor connection, or you you may have mistakenly connected to a place on the car that doesn't really have power. So use your test light and verify that there is actually power there. 3. What you say should be correct. But still, you should test at the relay to verify this is actually what is happening----this verifies that your connections are good, and that the alarm is working properly. By the way, some positive power leaks over through the relay's coil.....from 86 to 85.......so 85 will test like it's positive even when it's at rest; this is normal. Just see if it's becoming a ground when you operate the alarm. 4. A test light will work fine. All a test light is is a light bulb-----if one end gets positive, the other end gets negative, the light illuminates. So just take the test light and connect the alligator clip to a source of known constant positive power. Touch the probe to a known ground (body metal, outside of cigarette lighter, etc.) and make sure the light comes on. Now you can start testing for ground. Another note: Remember, the negative lock/unlock pulses from the alarm are fairly weak. They may not be strong enough to operate the relays AND light up the test light at the same time. So if you're trying to test 86 with your test light and are having no luck, try the meter instead, as it doesn't draw so much power. To test ground with the meter, it is similar to how the test light is used--------the red lead to positive, then touch the black lead to a known ground to make sure it is working, then start testing.

Thanks for all the help.  I will let you know in the morning if I  have working door locks!