Remote start on 98 Intrepid

Hey all, I'm back with another problem and seeking some help/advice again. Car: 1998 Dodge Intrepid ES Device: Bulldog remote start RSA92 (very old) I'm helping a friend at school install this and it works. Only thing is that when the security is armed, after you lock the door, and try to start it the horn goes off and the starter interrupt kicks in. The other thing is that the car starts without the hood pin switch being in place, but I don't think that factors into my problem here. The install manual says that only '99-present models need transponders, so I doubt that's my problem. The car starts when I deactivate the alarm. What I'm thinking is that I have the wrong factor disarm wire hooked up. I'm gonna check on that next week. Could I find that disarm wire at the fuse box also? Cause in the kick panel, they have this one flat tube where they must have 50 or so wires in it. It's very hard to sort through them since they're so thin and taut. Any ideas would help, thanks.

You should be able to find the factory alarm disarm wire (l. GREEN/ orange) coming in from the driver door harness..Just pull the boot off in the door jamb and look through those it should be in there if you can't access that harness from the inside. Obviously you can't take the boot off unless you cut it off (don't do that) so what you do is undo both ends of the boot, and then shove the boot itself into the door leaving one end sticking out so you can still pull it back out. This give you a lot more room to work with the door jamb harness without the boot in the way. Just thought I would clear that up. Also note I believe this wire needs to see 12 volts in order to shut down the alarm when most others need a ground. 99% of all units I've seen the factory alarm disarm puts out a negative pulse so you would need to use a relay. Did you do this or what are you using to shut it down? Good luck, Mike

The boot is really hard to pull off. I got it off, but it has a plastic cup at the end surrounding the wires. Even if I pushed it back it'll still be very tight to work in. I'm always afraid of working with those boots, cause most of the time I can't get them back in, haha. Or they're a pain to get off and I don't want to use a flat head and end up scrapping off some paint when I start prying. I guess I'll stick with the tube containing 50+ wires. Yes I used a relay to switch from pos. to neg. Installed it yesturday. Can you make sure I hooked it up right? I used the diagram from this site under Relays-->Converting polarity-->Negative output to positive output. Thanks.

The wire you are looking for is a LIGHT GREEN/ ORANGE and requires a (+) pulse before remote start. Just like Mike said, you will need a relay to convert the signal from (-) to (+) for the DISARM wire coming from the remote starter.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Yes, I know I'm looking for that color wire and that it needs a positve pulse. That's why I used "Convert a Negative Output to a Positive Output" diagram on this site. Since the remote starter is putting out a negative. Thanks though...

The information I have shows that the disarm needs a Positive pulse through a 873 Ohm Resistor to disarm the OEM alarm. Bulldog wiring says it needs a 680 Ohm resistor, but it grouped the 98 in with the 99 through 03's The other info I have doesnt mentioany resistors though. i would try it without, and if it doesnt work try a 873 ogm resistor, and if that doesnt work then you probably have the wrong wire, but you could trya 680 ohm resistor if you wanted.J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Hey, thanks everyone for your tips. I'm headed back to school tonight and gonna give it another try on friday.

Update...Took everything apart again today. Sifted through all the wires in the kick panel. Only found one light GREEN/ orange wire. Tried testing to see if I get a postive output when I turn the key to unlock the doors. I got nothing. No pulse at all. I'm starting to think I have the wrong wire here. One more thing. If the alarm is putting out a negative pulse how do I test it? I'm thinking that I tested that wrong because when I remote started the car and had a multimeter at the end of the disarm wire of the module it seemed like I got a positve pulse because the needle moved up. The last time I tested a negative output using my multimeter the needle moved backwards instead of forward. Got any ideas????? I am friggin stumped and sick of looking at it! Thanks.

Update...if anyone still wants to help I finally found the right factory disarm wire after 2 different tries. I guess working under light deprived places when trying to look at wire colors ain't good. But it seemed like there were two light GREEN/ orange wires down there. This time I tested it and I was getting a positive output when the car was armed. Instead of no output. Now this is what confuses me. If the car armed is positive do I need a negative pulse to disarm it or a positive? I hooked up the relay to switch the the alarm polarity from a negative to a positive to disarm it and it's still not working.    I just checked on bulldog for wiring diagrams again and what do you know...they changed some stuff. The old diagram I got said that the factory disarm requires a positive pulse. Now it says I need a negative. I tried both ways and it didn't work. Now the relay I have has a diode in there. Bulldog technician says that I don't need a relay with a diode, but the relay I already had in hand. He said I could use it though. I'm thinking the relay might be the problem here. I have my 85-86 poles hooked up the same way as the tutoral on this site on changing polarities; (-)85 and (+)86. The picture of the diode on the relay has the stripe across the diode (/) instead of on one side. So I guess that means that you can pick which side you want to be the input and output? Sorry for the long post but I want to get this working for my friend. Thanks for your help.