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Code-Alarm CA535/425, 1995 Honda Civic


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isuzu14b 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 05, 2004 at 8:39 PM / IP Logged  

Hello All

I've been searching through the site, awsome site by the way, but i cant find the info im looking for.

Seems like there are some very skilled installers lurking around here, hopefully you dont mind helping me out.  Im installing a Code Alarm remote starter with keyless entry into a 95 4 door civic.  It is the CA535/425 combo unit.  I do not have an alarm, nor will i be using one anytime soon.

First off let me tell you that i have plenty of electronics/wiring experience, mainly from the stereo and performance side of the auto spectrum.  However, i have never installed keyless or a remote starter before.

Ok, so my first question is, why do the directions suck so bad?  I understand that this system is intended for professional installation, but still.  I guess what i'm getting at is, the instructions do explain, to a certain degree,  the function of each wire, but i dont even need half of them hooked up.  The problem is that im not 100% sure which ones need to be hooked up and which ones are just options.  Most things are obvious, like dome light control or whatever, but some are redundent hookups, for example;  The "4 pin power harness" and "6 pin remote start harness" both have a 12v input and an ignition input wires.  Do both harnesses need to be connected? or just the remote start one since thats basically all the unit will be used for?

Another question, can i program the settings or do i need a transponder to do that?  I would like to add a defrost option and possibly a window roll-up option after i get the primary install done.  Im sure ill need to change some settings sooner or later to properly do all this.

I geuss my main question relates to my first question.  Which functions must be hooked up for proper basic funciton?

i know i need Batt, ignition,starter, tach, accessory, brake switch, parking lights, and the power-lock ones.  Is there anything else i should pay attention to?

Oh, and how many relays will a typical install need?

I know im in a bit deeper that i thought i would be, but I love this stuff.  All information will be GREATLY appreciated!

One last thing.  I've always been the kind of guy to solder all my connections.  But there are just so many damn wires!  Does anyone in this business solder in these units?  Seems too tedieus with all these wires, are crimps ok?

Thanks in advance!

alex

daniel2002p 
Silver - Posts: 524
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 05, 2004 at 11:34 PM / IP Logged  
ok first, when doing a alarm, cannot stess this enough NEVER EVER USE CRIMPS, ALWAYS SOLDER ALL WIRES, and yes what you listged are all the wires needed.
2005 Toyota Corolla S
    1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!
isuzu14b 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 06, 2004 at 6:22 AM / IP Logged  

Actually im kind of releived that you say that.  I just didnt want to go overboard if it wasnt necessary.

Ok, so where are relays used on a typical install?

hagmanti 
Silver - Posts: 304
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 06, 2004 at 3:53 PM / IP Logged  
Both harness need to be connected-- the 4 pin supplies power to the unit and has the starter (and 1st ignition) wires, the other has the 2nd ignition and accessory (think blowers!) wires, as well as the brake wire, which is necessary for shutdown. You can program the settings-- instructions for doing so are in the manual. (Basically, once you've got it hooked up, turn on the car, hold down the valet switch for 10-15 seconds until you hear three chirps, push the valet switch 2-4 more times to get to the different programming menus.)
(All wiring info comes from the 12volt's wiring database here. As always, you
must test each wire that you hook up to w/ a DMM before hooking up. Please do solder the connections. No cold solder joints, please!)
W/ that alarm (and it is an alarm, as long as you hook up door pin, and if you don't hook up door pin, you can't program it!) you'll hook up as follows
In the 6-pin and 4-pin plugs (mostly to ignition harness):
12 Volt (red) wires jumped together (leave a fuse on!) to White.
Starter (key side-- green) wire to key side of the cut BLACK/ white wire.
Starter (motor side-- purple) wire to motor side of the cut BLACK/ white wire.
(Can leave out green and not cut starter wire if you don't want starter kill/anti-grind.)
Orange to Yellow.
Pink to BLACK / YELLOW.
Pink/white to Yellow. (2 ignition wires because many cars have 2 ignition wires)
Orange to WHITE/ black (make sure is accessory, not starter!) (2 of my 3 sources think this is unnecessary...)
BROWN / red to GREEN / WHITE (above brake pedal in switch).
Blue/back-- probably unecessary.
In the 3-pin door locks harness:
Green to GREEN / WHITE, blue to GREEN/ red (both wires located in a 2-pin plug tapes behind the fuse box).
In the 22-pin connector:
BROWN / black to (I have conflicting information-- let your DMM be your guide) either blue w/ a relay or blue/red (relay not necessary?). If you find the blue wire that goes negative when you honk the horn, hook up the relay as follows: pin 85 to 12V, pin 86 to BROWN / black, pin 30 to ground, pin 87 to blue.
I would hook up the horn, else no auditory confirmation of lock and unlock, and it will be very difficult to program....
Violet/white to tach (blue wire in tach test connector [possilby by the battery?] or at the distributor)
Black white jumped to Green, both to Light GREEN/ red in the driver's running board. There will be two wires of this color there-- make sure you test! (and make sure you put the fuse in the low position).
White to RED / black by the fuse panel or in driver's kick. (make sure you put the fuse in the high position!)
Blue to GREEN/ black (above the fusebox in a blue plug). Only necessary if you want the alarm to monitor the trunk.
For defrost, you need to find the wire coming out of the defrost button that (hopefully) goes to ground when you press that button (and back to 12V after the defroster times out). Hook the blue/black wire from the 6-pin harness here (if you want defrosting to always happen in remote starts, which I think is reasonable). Otherwise, hook it up to one of your output channels, and you'll have to remember to activate it.
(Those are the 4 pin harness that's all pinks...)
Sorry if this is a little confused, I'm at home sick (which is the only reason I have time to give so much detail, but also means I'm a bit fuzzy-headed. Have I mentioned that you really need to check every single wire w/ a DMM before you hook up anything to it?)
Me
hagmanti 
Silver - Posts: 304
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 06, 2004 at 3:56 PM / IP Logged  
Actually, I also got wiring from bulldogsecurity.com and code alarm's web site (which you can also check using the password in your manual).
And looking back at that, I really must apologize for my lack of grammar and punctuation. Sorry folks. Blame the virus that's wreaking havoc w/ my head.
Me
isuzu14b 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 06, 2004 at 8:06 PM / IP Logged  

hagmanti wrote:
And looking back at that, I really must apologize for my lack of grammar and punctuation. Sorry folks. Blame the virus that's wreaking havoc w/ my head.
Me

No need to appologize!

You have totally helped my out!  Thank you so much! 

I cant work on the car again till later this week, but i think you've answered all my questions.  Ill keep you posted.

isuzu14b 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 08, 2004 at 10:52 PM / IP Logged  

Alright, i've got everything hooked up.  I did a few things differently...

pink and pink/white are both connected to BLACK / YELLOW since i do not have an ignition2 wire on my car.

 Also, ORANGE / white is not connected to anything (accessory2).  Does this need to be connected to the accessory also?  even though the car has no accessory2?

Also, the horn is not hooked up yet.  I will do it if i need to.

Ok, so when i first powered everything up my parking lights were flashing and the relays in the brain unit were clicking in what seemed to be a random fashion.  Not sure what i did, but eventually it stopped.

Now im trying to program it, but im not having any luck.  I've tried holding the button and listeing for the relays to click 3 times, or i even hooked up my volt meter to the BROWN / black wire to see if i could get a reading indicating that it was doing somthing, but nothing happened when checking for voltage, ground or continuity.

I havent found my horn wire yet, thats the main reason im not just using it, but i have no reason to beleive it would make a difference for programming anyways.

Are you sure i dont need that special programming device?

Thanks so much for your input!

alex

hagmanti 
Silver - Posts: 304
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 09, 2004 at 12:39 AM / IP Logged  
Only one of pink or pink/white should be hooked up. Just snip the pink/white.
(Probably won't hurt anything, but....)
Same w/ ORANGE / white-- if not needed, don't hook up.
I've programmed like 30 or 40 of these w/o using the RF programmer (even more w/). You don't have to have the special programmer-- it just makes things simpler.
However, you don't use the special programmer to program the remotes.
It should go like this:
Open door (remember I said you had to hook up doorpin?) or ground green wire.
Turn on ignition (to run, not acc).
Press and hold button for like 15 seconds (after 8 seconds blue light should turn on steady).
   -- Blue light will go off
Press lock button on each remote you want programmed (for like 4 seconds if you can't hear chirps).
Turn off ignition.
Check to make sure door locks work.
Turn on ignition.
Turn off ignition.
Turn on ignition.
Press valet button 3 times.
Turn off ignition.
Press and hold valet button. While pressing valet button, start the car. If the parking lights flash, tach is successfully learned. Let the car idle for 20 seconds (or until RPMs go as low as they usually do @ idle).
Let go of button.
Wait 3 seconds (or so, until parking lights go out).
Turn off car.
Try remote starting-- press, release, press, release option button. Make sure each press is firm and hold it for a second-- no need to hurry. Also, leave a little time between presses.
If the car does not remote start, count the number of times the parking lights flash-- it will give you a clue as to what's not hooked up...
Hope this helps,
   Me
isuzu14b 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 09, 2004 at 9:27 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks again for your help.  The locks are working now and i've gotten the unit to register the tach, but when i try to remote start i either get 5, 6, or 7 flashes.  Actually i'm guessing the 7 flashes was because the on/off switch was off.

I have no idea what these flashes represent, i swear this information is not in the install manual.

So close, yet so far...

hagmanti 
Silver - Posts: 304
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 09, 2004 at 11:01 PM / IP Logged  
Well, you're right that 5 or 6 are not in the manual. I've never seen them.
4 flashes means the switch is turned off. 7 flashes means tach is not learned.
Are you pressing the * button instead of the option (opt) button? The * button does a locator thing (beeps and flashes 5 times, progressively louder).
Me
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