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Keyless Entry Ranger w/no power locks


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mcndahouse 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 24, 2005 at 11:24 PM / IP Logged  

Hey, looks like there are a lot of knowledgable people here who really know their stuff. I have a 1999 Ford Ranger. It doesn't have power door locks. I want to add keyless entry. I'd like to be able to remotely lock/unlock the doors and have the panic button honk the horn/flash the lights.

I have purchased the DEI Valet 712t and a couple of actuators from Parts Express.

Valet 712T Keyless Entry System

Features:
* Keyless Entry System
* 3 channel keyless entry system
* Clone-Safe® Code-Hopping®
* On-board Door Lock Relays
* Parking Light Flash
* Super Bright LED System Status Indicator
* Dome Light Supervision - On-board Relay
* 2 auxiliary Outputs
* Horn Honk Output
* Ground When Armed Output
* Includes Two 4-button Transmitters

My actuators (Part#330-010 from Parts Express) have two wires. One is green, the other is blue.

The unit has built in relays so I'm assuming I won't need additional relays. Although I do have some (330-073 12VDC Automotive Relay SPDT 30A).

Here's the info on the wires on it:

Valet 712T Primary Harness (H1)
1- Red (+)12v constant power input
2- Blue (-2)200mA second unlock output
3- blk/wh1 Input domelight supervision relay #87
4- blk/wh Output domelight supervision relay #30
5- GREEN/ blk Lock #30 Common output
6- wh/blk Lock #87 Normally closed
7- Violet/blk Lock #87 Normally open (input)
8- Blue/blk Unlock #30 Common (output)
9- Violet Unlock #87 Normally open (input)
10- White (+/-) Parking light flash output
11- Black (-)Chassis ground input
12- Brown (-)Horn honk output
13- Lt Grn/blk Factory Alarm disarm
14- WHITE/ Blue (-)200mA Ch3 validity output
15- Yellow (+)Switched ignition input(accessory
16- Orange (-)500mA Ground-when-armed Output
17- BROWN / Blk Unlock #87A Normally Closed
18- RED / White (-)Output of Channel 2
The red wire has a fuse built in it. The violet and violet/blk wires run through a fuse as well.
In the manual it says under the 5-GREEN/ Blk Lock #30 Common (Output): "The system has door lock relays on-board, and can directly interface with most electric power door lock systems drawing 30 amps or less. It can also drive aftermarket actuators directly. (Some vehicles require that an aftermarket actuator be added to the driver's door to allow system control, see Type D wiring section in Tech Tip Document 1041)."

I'm not really clear on how to wire this. What wires go to each of the actuators? Which goes to the blue on the drivers door actuator, which to the green and also for the blue/green on the passenger actuator? Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks,

MC 

KarTuneMan 
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Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: October 25, 2005 at 1:12 AM / IP Logged  

87, N.O. goes to 12v fused at 10 amps each  87a,N.C. goes to ground comm.lock and comm. unlock go to actuator. one relay per actuator...

get the common lock and unlock wires on to the same color wires on the actuator, so they both move in the same direction

mcndahouse 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 25, 2005 at 1:11 PM / IP Logged  

I am very much a newbie to this stuff. I am used to building computers and such but not much in this area. Let me ask you a few dumb questions...

Let me see if I have this straight...

I need to run wire #7 Violet/blk Lock #87 N.O. (input) to the 12V of my Ranger (yellow wire on Ignition switch harness Constant 12v+) with it fused with a 10amp fuse.

Wire #17 (Unlock 87a N.C.) goes to the ground point

#5 GREEN/ blk (Lock #30 Common output) to green wire on actuator

#8 blue/blk (Unlock #30 Common output) to blue wire on actuator

Is that correct?

I suppose if I want to do the progressive unlock (2nd press locks/unlocks passenger door) I would use wire #2 Blue to the blue wire on the passenger door actuator?

Thanks so much for your help. I truly respect the work that installers of alarms and auto accessories do. I see now that the money they charge is well earned. I'm trying to learn and appreciate any help I can get.

MC

Vestax 
Member - Posts: 13
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Joined: January 05, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 25, 2005 at 2:04 PM / IP Logged  

Wire the voilet wires to 12 volt.

Brown and white to ground.

Green to lock wires and blue to unlock wires.

USUC World Champion - Stock System Class, Super Street Division. Special Edition Bose 26 piece speaker system with enhanced ported tweeters. 89.2 db Legal, 89.6 db Outlaw
mcndahouse 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 26, 2005 at 10:15 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys.

MC

mcndahouse 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 29, 2005 at 2:18 PM / IP Logged  

One more dumb question, what gauge wire do I need to use?

Thanks,

MC

iskidoo 
Silver - Posts: 1,043
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 08, 2002
Location: Maine, United States
Posted: October 29, 2005 at 3:01 PM / IP Logged  
You can use the same guage wire that the actuator has or a little larger. I genarally keep a roll of 12 guage speaker wire and run that because the wires are together already and easier to snake through the door boot.
Steve G
nava94 
Silver - Posts: 296
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Joined: February 28, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: October 29, 2005 at 11:21 PM / IP Logged  
when you install the actuators in the doors you could slide the actuator rod into the plastic clip were the factory rod is.There's a hole in that plastic clip for the factory actuator rod goes it will be easier and secure than using the connecting rod adapter. good luck.
mcndahouse 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 30, 2005 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the great advice!

MC


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