2006 H3, Viper 160vx Failures

Home / the12volt's Install Bay / Car Security and Convenience / 2006 H3, Viper 160vx Failures (

Topic Closed)

Welcome Guest :)

Members

< Prev Topic Next Topic >

ahhfoo

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 22, 2005

Posted: January 07, 2006 at 6:10 AM / IP Logged

I had a Viper 160vx installed in my 2006 Hummer H3 4 weeks ago and since have been back to the installation shop 5 more times because to date, It's not worked reliably. Initially it was installed with the hopes of running only the viper remote. That worked much of the time but for some reason, not all of the time. Every few days it would fail to start the car and cause a fault (or whatever it’s called) that would lock out the system for 22 minutes. It seemed to be doing it most around door operations just prior to starting but there were exceptions to that as well. About 80% of the time it worked and 20% it didn't and every factor beyond that was variable.

After a couple trips back to the installation place they decided to replace all of the components and start over. They did it and in the hopes of isolating the problem, chose to not connect the viper remote door locks. All the viper remote did was actually starting the truck. The first night I tried it from scratch but it set off the alarm. From then forward, I unlocked it with the factory remote first and then started it. That worked best of all but on one occasion I remote started it, did not know it worked so tried a second time to remote start it which of course stopped it but also tripped the fault again so I was locked out for 22 minutes.

That lasted about a week with only the 2 faults so we decided to hook up the viper door lock feature again. The first time I tried it I locked it with the viper remote and attempted to remote start it about 7 hours later. It failed to start and locked me out. Upon getting to work that same night I tried all the variations of locking and unlocking the doors and they all worked with the remote start. The only one that did not work still was when locking with the factory remote and remote starting. That has always set off the alarm. Once finished I locked it with the viper remote and 7 hours later I retried the remote starter but this time unlocked it with the viper before I started it (the opposite of what I did the night before in leaving it locked). It again failed. Based on this, it would seem that it can only work when using the factory door lock remote and unlocking it prior to remote starting. The viper door locks will also work with the remote starter but only if it is done shortly after the vehicle is run. If you wait hours between start attempts and use the viper door locks it will fail.

I know how ridiculous this all sounds but there just seems no pattern to this system and these failures. I'd welcome any suggestions anyone might have. The installer is out of ideas and so am I...

Thanks!!

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: January 07, 2006 at 7:12 AM / IP Logged

I haven't done an H3 yet, but I've worked on a handful of Colorados and Canyons, and they are the same from everything I've heard.

--The doorlocks should have nothing to do with it. Is it the factory GM alarm that's sounding off.... or does the Viper remote start also have its own alarm?

Try this and you'll see:

Roll down the driver's window. Get out, close all the doors, arm the factory alarm by locking the doors with the factory remote.

Wait at least 30 seconds for the factory alarm to arm, then reach in through the window and start the car with the key......does the factory alarm go off? It shouldn't.

As you'll see, the simple act of properly starting the engine shuts down the factory alarm----the installer does not need to do anything special to disarm the factory alarm before remote start. It isn't going to matter if the doors were locked.

--When the car locks up for those 22 minutes, look in the instrument cluster at the PASSLock light; that's the picture that looks like a padlock-------is it flashing? And then you leave the key on until it stops flashing, and you can now start with the key and be on your way, right?

--Most of the wiring in those trucks is unbelievably simple, but the PASSLock anti-theft system in these is tricky to deal with, and this particular system is exclusive to this truck----it requires extra wiring, two relays, and a resistor----completely different from PASSLock systems in other GM vehicles.

It is likely that the installer is having a hard time with it, and either has the wrong resistor value, poor connections (although I'm sure they checked that by now), or he's following the wrong diagram for the PASSLock.

It is probable, that if the resistor value is slightly off, that the car would remote-start just fine in the shop, but give you trouble later.

It's also possible, but unlikely, that something is wrong with the car itself. What if you stop using the remote starter altogether for a few days, and ONLY drive it with the key------does the problem stop?

Ask your installer how he is bypassing the PASSLock feature during remote start. If he is doing something wrong, we'd be happy to help him.

I've been doing it from scratch, using two relays and one resistor---the few that I have done have worked out fine. But there is also a piece available at www.bypasskit.com that is supposed to make it easier and save time.

ahhfoo

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 22, 2005

Posted: January 07, 2006 at 9:31 AM / IP Logged

I will answer what I can now and try the rest today...

First off the installer thought it was identical to the Colorado as well but when it failed in their parking lot the first time I tried it, he researched it a while and reported that there was an additional wire needed... He hooked it up and it worked that day but failed later...

On the lock outs, all I have ever done was wait the 22 minutes with the keys out as advised by the installer... Are you saying it will reset faster if I leave the key in the ignition and turn it on?? If so I can try it next time and see...

As for he wiring, he reported installing the viper unit and a relay but nothing more... If there is a second relay or a resistor it was never mentioned to me... Where could I look for the relays and the resistor?? I will try and find them all to be sure...

The hummer itself never faults aside from the remote starter faults... It has never once failed via the key starts...

On the www.bypasskit.com it's not loading but I'll try again later...

THX again and will check the rest today...

P.S. I got the bypasskit website to load but they show nothing offered for a 2006 Hummer H3...

Maybe this will better explain it all... I wrote this to bypasskit web people in the hopes they will know what I need... It's the same story just said better... I have been trying to use a Viper remote starter (160XV) in my 06 Hummer H3 for 4 weeks now but nothing seems to work right (for long)... No matter what I try, if using the Viper remote to lock and unlock the doors, it fails if the vehicle has been sitting for any extended period of time... If I tried different door locking / unlocking with the viper remote in the drive way the remote starter always works... When I use it practically, and the vehicle has been parked overnight or any other long (hours) period, it always fails (locking me out for 22 minutes). The only way I can get it to work all the time is by locking it the night (or period) before with the factory remote and unlocking it with the factory remote just prior to starting it with the viper remote. If I don't unlock it just prior, the factory alarm will sound and it will not start (locking me out for 22 minutes)

Note: When I refer to any one of these remotes, I always unlock it with whichever remote I locked it with... I never mix them (i.e. lock with the viper controller and unlock it with the factory controller)...

sparkie

Platinum - Posts: 2,061

Joined: November 06, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 07, 2006 at 10:40 AM / IP Logged

The Hummer H3's are very similar to the Colorado/Canyon except for some minor variations. The biggest problem is there is currently no way to disarmt the factory alarm other than using the factory remote keyless entry. Have the door locks hooked up to the Viper if not having the alarm arm/disarm is not important to you. If you want the alarm working then, don't hook them up and you will have to use the factory remote to unlock/disarm the truck prior to remote starting (it's a pain). The other major difference is that the H3's don't react well with Passlock interfaces designed for the Colorado's and such. The vehicle has some quirk in them which you seem to be experiencing. Have your installers substitute any bypass with two relays and a resistor. They should be able to contact their supplier's tech support or use one of the tech tips provided by companies like Astrostart. If they hook up the two relay/resistor circuit correctly and match the resistence 100% your problem will vanish.

sparky

ahhfoo

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 22, 2005

Posted: January 07, 2006 at 3:23 PM / IP Logged

I tried the open window start today and it started but when I turned the key the horn sounded once as if it were going to sound the alarm... I also got it to fail via the viper remote locking system and once it was locked out put the key in and turned it to on... I waited 5 or 10 minute but it was still blinking and locked out...

My installer is going to try the 2 relays and resistor set and see if it fixes it... If not I am just gonna yank it and give up...

sparkie

Platinum - Posts: 2,061

Joined: November 06, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 07, 2006 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged

The factory remote can't be used anymore if you use the Viper to control the locks. Unfortunately, the factory alarm won't even disarm by starting it with the key unless it sees the driver's door open first. This however causes the alarm to sound the horn once and turns on the security light until the key is used to start the truck. Toss the factory remotes in a drawer at home and live with no alarm. The resistor method works great providing they use the exact resistance value required.

sparky

toymotaman

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: February 16, 2005

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: January 07, 2006 at 5:16 PM / IP Logged

sparky is right, the two relays with the proper value resistor (+/- 10% tolerance) is the best way to go (all connections must be soldered no butt connectors here boys). The factory alarm will shut down upon seeing ignition and the proper Passlock resistance value. The reason your alarm is going off is because the module they have used is not operating properly. I had a case exactly like yours in an H3 I worked on personally. The remoter starter would work only if I didn't arm/lock the vehicle with the factory remote. I removed the Passlock learning module I used initially and replaced it with relays and a resistor and voila! it worked fine, even when arming/locking with the factory remote. If the facility that installed your Viper is an authorized dealer, they should have access to DEI's(Directed Electronics Incorporated) authorized dealer support. If so they need to refer to DirectFax document 1603, this will give them proper instruction in interfacing with the Passlock system. Finally one last point, it is very important that the ground connection for the Viper 160's cpu is made in the driver's kickpanel where it will encounter the least interference.

ahhfoo

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 22, 2005

Posted: January 07, 2006 at 11:16 PM / IP Logged

The only way it works right now is thru using the factory remote... The only thing is, I have to unlock the doors with the factory remote before I hit the viper start... If I don't it will trip the alarm and lock me out... If I try and start it after locking with the viper remote it will lock me out whether I leave it locked or unlock it before attempting the remote start... Hopefully, this is all settled now because my installer called today to say he has found the problem and has the additional relay to be installed Friday... I'll let you all know how it goes but thanks so far regardless...

ahhfoo

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: December 22, 2005

Posted: January 12, 2006 at 1:23 PM / IP Logged

Ok I stopped by the shop again and verified that they are using a bypass shown on DEI 1603 (faxback)... Internally it includes 2 relays and 1 resistor... All connections are soldered and it is grounded in the drivers kick panel... It has been all of these things since it was first installed and about 2 weeks ago, every single component was changed out to make sure it was not equipment failure... Now what do I try??

woodn01

Member - Posts: 27

Joined: September 14, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: January 12, 2006 at 1:39 PM / IP Logged

make sure it is not an actual bypass kit that they installed. they should be using two seperate relays and a seperate resistor matched to the vehicle. not an all-in-one bypass unit. they will have to make this by hand.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

Printable version

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Search the12volt.com

Follow the12volt.com

Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

2006 H3, Viper 160vx Failures

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.This topic is closed.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.