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Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: June 14, 2002 at 11:54 PM / IP Logged  

I normally fuse my connections at 20 amps for accessory items and 30 amps for unit power.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
dyer 
Copper - Posts: 206
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Joined: May 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 15, 2002 at 7:45 AM / IP Logged  
so for my door locks should i use 20 or 30? The wire coming from my alarm that ties into 86 on both relays is 22 gauge wire. Can it handle this much power?
Dyer
Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: June 15, 2002 at 7:55 AM / IP Logged  

The door lock/unlock wire only has about a 10 amp output so I would only use a 15 if you have to. I normally don't use a fused connection on the door lock wire because the current draw is so minimal. The accessory items that I was speaking of was the light flash, heater/AC, second ignition, etc..... that uses more current that require more than 20 amps of power. Remember that most of the wires in vehicles today are between 18 - 24 gauge and they all are fused at between 5-30 amps for the most part , so I wouldn't be scared about fusing at 15 amps on the wire above as the circuit is not a heavy loaded wire.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
dyer 
Copper - Posts: 206
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Joined: May 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 15, 2002 at 9:03 AM / IP Logged  
the reason i am asking is because i have everything on my alarm pretty much figured out by now except for the door locks. When pushing the remote, my alarm will arm and disarm fine, but the doors will not lock or unlock. When i try to unlock, i always end up blowing a fuse. I've blown 15 and 20 amp fuses. Do you have any ideas about why this is happening? Do you know why my doors won't lock or unlock?
Dyer
Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: June 15, 2002 at 9:24 AM / IP Logged  

First off, what make, model and year car do you have ? I will try to help you out but I can't remember if you listed this information in a previous post or not ?

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
dyer 
Copper - Posts: 206
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Joined: May 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 15, 2002 at 1:48 PM / IP Logged  
1994 GMC s-15 jimmy with factory keyless entry. no factory alarm.
Dyer
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: June 15, 2002 at 2:12 PM / IP Logged  

First off.... does the unit that you have output both a ( - ) and ( + ) signal from the doorlock circuitry ? If the unit only outputs a ( - ) output you will need to intall 2 relays to convert the signal into a positive system. If the unit has alternating polarity system then all you need to do is to hook up the following wires to the respected wires on the alarm module:

Power  Lock:

 

LIGHT BLUE

DRIVER'S KICK PANEL

Power  Unlock:

 

BLACK OR BLACK/ WHITE

DRIVER'S KICK PANEL

Test each wire for circuit verification to ensure that you do have the right wires and that they are positive type lock system.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
dyer 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: May 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 15, 2002 at 10:42 PM / IP Logged  
The alarm is negative only. My car has positive. I have 2 relays hooked up, but still it doesn't work. 
Dyer

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