hello from the dmv area

I live in Alexandria Virginia USA. That's near the District of Columbia and Maryland- thus the DMV. Anyways, I am endeavoring to install a remote starter/alarm/bypass module on my 08 Toyota Corolla and I have been researching the steps required... Each question I had (for example, "what does 'grounded output when armed' mean and do I need it?" would be answered here on the Interwebz and many times here at the12volt. So I thought, when I finally do pull the trigger and began to install, I think this is the best online community for my questions that can not be answered via search tools. I install AV systems professionally in offices when I am not busy sitting on my butt as a help desk tech. I have installed my own 600watt amp and dual 12 inch subs in the aformentioned Toyota. I have limited knowledge but, like anyone that wants to learn, I know how to ask questions.

Well, ask away by all means but make sure you post in the Car Security and Convenience" section. Ref the GWA wire, it goes to constant low current NEG (-) when the alarm is activated. Primary uses are off board circuit cut relays, triggering window and roof closers and sometimes extra LEDs/Electro luminescent panels, in other words items extra that need to be activated when the alarm is on. Just to possibly confuse you, there's also a GWR or "ground whilst running" or "status output". This goes to ground only when the R/S portion has been activated,used to trigger by-passes, key sense. The answer to your next question is:- Compustar, DEI (Viper/Clifford/Python) etc. Most reliable etc. And the next one is this site under "vehicle wiring" or "downloads/manuals". Ready remote, Audiovox just enter a password, Bulldog, not as accurate as the others, all free to access.

Thanks howie II Just so I am clear, I no longer have these questions, because of this forum. That is why I have registered. This post was just my first post to the forum so that my first post is not a question. I'd like to be a contributing member prior to my leeching :D

That's OK too. Leeching is the practice of trying to save money by DIY, finding they can't do it then asking us to hold their hands while we do it for them, in my case from 3-5000 miles away

rofl. that is my point! I have gone so far as to not purchase the equipment yet, but I have downloaded all install material that I could find for both the bypass and the RS, then cross referenced those with each other as well as factory wiring diagrams. This is helping me get a grasp on the scope of the project as well as answer my own questions, even before I begin. Heck, now I even know what tools and gear to purchase outside of the obvious.

Good we understand it each other. I'm 65 and semi-retired but if I get to do a vehicle I haven't done before I won't hesitate to read up on it and keep notes, anyway isn't that what Smartphones are for? A couple of very true sayings:-(sorry if I'm preaching to the converted). All the "P"s, Proper Preparation Prevents P**s Poor Performance. KISS, TEST TEST TEST....RTFM and again, RTFM. The Devil's in the details. I know they're clichés but oh so true. Strip the car before starting, you might yet find loads of space BEHIND the instrument cluster, it's an incredibly stealthy mounting position, all your cables run DOWN so harder to find. Some practical considerations ref. your vehicle. Keysense, triggered by by the GWR wire, essential on most Toyotas, enables you to enter the R/S mode without having to unlock the doors to disable the factory alarm if present. Dome light. If the vehicle has factory power locks, you won't need to go to individual door triggers, just the (-)switched lead to the dome light (red) from a grey 6 pin plug on the dashboard fuse box. Window close. I found this out on a UK Corolla (Toyota Auris in Europe), if you apply a POS (+) wire to various wires in the driver kickpanel, it will close the windows, there an aux output through a relay, (to switch pos from neg)out through 4 diodes and viola, window close for the price of a relay and some left over wire? You could probably use the same method with another relay for venting/open.

Something that might be obvious to you, I'm sick of explaining to other newbies but about 10 1N4004 diodes, if one GWR, you will need it to split between the by-pass and the keysense unless the by-pass e.g. Fortin caters for it already, also again if you already know then apologies but the relays, across the coil and any low current (200milliamps or less) alarm-R/S aux out put. Otherwise you will fry the alarm CPU.

Thanks... though... a)I do not have a factory alarm, would I not need to run the GWR to the Keysense? I do plan on connecting the bypass to the keysense. b) I plan on using the iDatalink proprietary cable, the install manual (linked to below) does not show a diode for this installation. Is that wrong? c) I was planning on using the negative lock signal to trigger a Bosch relay to fire the driver's door unlock, and then the 2 step unlock to fire all door lock motors. This seems to make sense in my head, but I am of amateur level knowledge. Autopage Remote Starter c3RS665 http://www.autopageusa.com/resources/C3RS665installmanualfinal.pdf iDatalink Immobilizer Bypass ADS-TBSL KO (Section F, Type2) http://www.idatalink.com/common/file/get-install-guide/id/7375

a) Not sure but I would still connect, might be unknown factors. b) No in the circumstances but that wasn't what I meant see below. c) Fine but two things, first with Autopage look closely at the lock/unlock wires. They are shown as +/-. This means a flip flop output, diodes are MANDATORY you will have all sorts of problems with the locking system otherwise. Also the Autopage second stage lock diagram is WRONG, apart from the fact that the correct term is priority unlock. This diagram corrected to Autopage and Corolla colours shows how. Note 3 diodes for a start:- 2D7_2nd_unlock_with_low_outputs.bmp

You: are the best