Ideas needed for fiberglass sub box

I'm looking for some professional advise on building a fiberglass subwoofer Enclosure.  I'm planning on using 2 Kicker solo baric 10" dual 2 ohm L7's powered by a DX 700 mono amp.  This box will sit on the rear hatch area between the rear window and the trunk of my BMW 535I.  (An installer said that the metal that separates the cabin of the car and the trunk could not be removed or cut for car structure reasons)  That is why I'm placing and securing the box on the top of the metal.  Anyway I really need to know if you think it can be done and then how can I make it happen.  I need to know how thick the fiberglass should be?  And an idea of how to design the box.  I was thinking of making a mold out of metal mesh and then applying the fiberglass over the top and inside for both structural support and design.  I have never really used fiberglass so I don't even know how or were to get started.  I know that this message is long and winded but I wanted you get a good picture of what I'm trying to accomplish here.  Any and all ideas on material, shaping and molding fiberglass, to the calculation need to get the air space needed to make the subs perform as they should will be appreciated.  Thank You Chad

Hey bcp,

   Sounds like a fun project to try for your first time out. I've used the mesh deal before, it works okay, but there is a better way. Go ahead and lay down strips of duct tape (use #15,056)  wher you want the box to be, and cover it with tin foil (maybe use a little spray glue to help attach the foil) This way you have an exact mold of what you want to build. When you have your box area covered with tape and foil, start the glass process, laying the glass and resin right ontop of the foil. Be very careful not to get resin on anything not protected, it will be ruined!! Once your base dries, you've got a good start on the base of your box. This method works great for kick pods and door panels too! ....................... By the way, putting tin foil over the duct tape should allow your mold to separate from the tape once it's dry, so don't go nutz with the glue :-)

That's the ticket!