input on small fiberglass case build

Im looking to try my expand my fiberglass abilities. The project Im looking at doing is building a small box/enclosure/case for the side of the bed of my truck where I will put in a power inverter. Basically what Im thinking of doing is making a small box to mount to the inside of the bed. In here I will mount the power inverter and also waterproof electrical outlets. I dont know how I can get a fiberglass mold of the backside of the box so it sits flush against the side of the bed. Im read how to cover an area in fiberglass but wont this be hard the area Im making a mold of is vertical? How can I accomplish this? Should I make a template first using Styrofoam and then make the mold from that? What are your recommendations? Here is a pic of the area Im referring to. Bobby - Jax FL

The way that I would approach this is to build the entire enclosure out of 1/2" foamed PVC (available at www.tapplastics.com) with the possible acceptation of the back wall. I might glass this due to the shape of the bed and then bond this to the PVC. I would bond the PVC together with Hobby grade supper glue (Zapagap). You could make the entire enclosure out of fiberglass but I do not think it would be practical. In the event that you just really want to take on an entire fiberglass project I would suggest that you begin by cutting the mounting hole from your bed liner then make a plug (mold) of your enclosure using floral foam. Glue blocks together using spray glue and then sand to shape using 36 grit. Use spray glue and aluminum foil to cover your plug then wax it with regular carnauba car wax. Put it on thick and don't rub it off. Glass over that with 4 layers of 1.5 oz. mat and you have your piece. Don't worry about laying glass on a vertical surface. Get yourself a roller also available from tapplastics and role the glass as you apply it. you will find that as long as the glass is not over or under saturated with resin that it will sick just fine. In fact I just glassed a sub enclosure last week that required me to apply in this manner totally upside down. I had no problems with the glass sticking. Pay attention to the temperature and the amount of MEKP that you use. I use 1cc MEKP to 1 oz. of resin 60-70 degrees and 1/2 cc. 70-75 and 1/4 cc to 1 oz for 75 degrees and up. If you use to little gravity will have a chance to pull your glass down (not on a vertical surface that has been properly rolled out but definitely on an inverted surface). I manage a shop with a bunch of guys that along with myself do this type of stuff all day long. So when I say that this project is not practical to do entirely from fiberglass I know what I speak. Having said that I applaud anyone that truly attempts to further their own experience despite the easy road. The best of luck to you and let me know if you have any question that I might be able to answer for you.

Do you already have the inverter? Size and rating matter but a dude at the ballgame had one tucked underneath the bed next to the spare tire. A marine case for a battery or whatever protects splash from all directions and still vents heat. His plugs sat recessed in a outdoor rated box in the rear bumper, and he had a switch in the cab.This is what I do for FUN!

My computer has been down for about a week and I just saw the responses. In the interim I have done some work on the project and would like you input. Below is a write up of what I've done so far. Questions: * how can I ensure I don’t get "bubbles" between my layers for fiberglass?   Should I use a roller on each layer to ensure its making a tight fit to the underlying layer? * I have the backside/bed side mold made of fiberglass. I was thinking of using 1/2 MDF for the rest of the box (sides and cover).   Will this be OK or should I go with PVC suggested by speakermakers? I don’t any experience working with plastics really. Always worked with wood. * What’s the best way to bond the fiberglass mold to the MDF? I figured I'd route off the edges and then use resin and some cloth or mat to bond it? Will this work? * To ensure the enclosure is fully sealed I was going to cover the entire box is a layer of resin. This with my tonneau cover should ensure it does not get any moisture (I hope)?? And of course I'll have the outlets enclosed in an outdoor weatherproof outlet box. What I have done so far: I made a "mold" out of fiberglass of the side of the bed. I taped it off w/ blue painters tape then covered the heck out the tape in car wax. Then used resin and fiberglass cloth for the first 3 layers. Then I removed it from the truck and then added 2 more layers of resin and fiberglass mat. The back side (bed mold side) came out good and it fits well. However on the front side where I laid the additional layers I have quite a few places where there are bubbles between the layers making it look pretty bad. So I sanded down a lot of it last night mainly to get rid of the bubbles an added another layer of resin and fiberglass cloth. This time trying to make sure I did not have any bubbles between the layers. I was then going to sand it again tonight. Bobby - Jax FL

ianarian wrote: Do you already have the inverter? Size and rating matter but a dude at the ballgame had one tucked underneath the bed next to the spare tire. A marine case for a battery or whatever protects splash from all directions and still vents heat. His plugs sat recessed in a outdoor rated box in the rear bumper, and he had a switch in the cab.

Currenly I have a Metra 400W http://www.nulime.com/400W-AC-DC-Power-Inverter/p447170. I was thinking I might go to a bigger more powerful model. Not sure yet.Bobby - Jax FL