three type r's

I think the "car audio guy" knows a little more than you do. Your amp the mrp-m500 is rated at (300 Watts @ 4ohms and 500 watts @ 2ohms)RMS. Each one of your three 10" type R's is rated at 500Watts RMS which means that that is the recommended amount of power you should provide to each of them, you do the math. NOw, you could power all three with that one amp(which i do not recommend by the way) but they would be severely underpowered AND you would need to provide the model numbers of all three subs. Are they SWR-1042D or SWR-1022D or some of each. This matters because it will determine how you will hook them up to your amp, which is determined by their impedance so you don't blow your amp or at least so you have a little better chance of not blowing your amp. The impedance in ohms I was referring to is defined by this sites Glossary (link at top of site) and there are subwoofer wiring calculators (link at top of site) to help you determine how to connect your subs properly.(wire them all to a total load of 2ohms if possible(you can interchange the two methods to achieve this)) If you decide you need a more powerful amp be sure to give your budget so members can provide you with good suggestions.

Also I forgot to ask what type of box it is and how big it is approximately?(sealed, ported, Bandpass?) Length X Width X Height. They are really nice subs though and that's not a bad amp you have if you only had one of those subs but something bad will eventually happen if you try this one way or another.

Unfortunately he is correct....3's a crowd for that amp. Each Type R could handle its own M-500. When the 3 subs are wired to one channel their total impedance is higher than 2ohm so your 500w ratings are actually a little lower(providing they're DVC 4ohm). Two DVC 2ohm 10's is the way to go if you want to stick with that amp.This is what I do for FUN!

z03mz03m wrote: I think the "car audio guy" knows a little more than you do. Each one of your three 10" type R's is rated at 500Watts RMS which means that that is the recommended amount of power you should provide to each of them, you do the math.

Completely wrong! The RMS rating on a sub is a maximum amount of rms it can handle without mechanical damage rated by the manufacturer. It in no way shape or form means you must give them that much.

ianarian wrote: Unfortunately he is correct....3's a crowd for that amp. Each Type R could handle its own M-500. When the 3 subs are wired to one channel their total impedance is higher than 2ohm so your 500w ratings are actually a little lower(providing they're DVC 4ohm). Two DVC 2ohm 10's is the way to go if you want to stick with that amp.

To an extent i can agree with you he has a best option of 2.67 or 3ohm depending on the Type R's being 2 or 4ohm, but do we know what the ohm load of the other subs or how many? No we dont. Speculation gets you no where. Tell us more about the system as far as what were the other subs. How many kicker subs? DVC or SVC and ohm of coil/s? How were they wired? And now the type R's specs, dual 4 or 2 ohm? This is stuff that needs to be answered before any GOOD answer can come about.

Do you have a H/O alt? The MPR2000 will pull up to 180A. So unless you have and H/O alt AND Big 3 done. That amp is not the way to go simply with a plug and play. You would want 0 gauge wire, plus 200+A alt to power your cars requirements and the amp, but it would be a good fit to the subs. As for you current amp. 8 guage is what should be used. What where the Kickers subs? and ohm load to the amp? If you were at 2ohm and pleased by it then you should not be too bad off with the type R's on it. the power difference would not be a heable difference. If you feel the need for more then switch out. As for the battery without a H/O you are simply adding yet another thing to have to charge. If you are using a mrp2000 you will be taking your stock electrical way past is limits. Power comes from the alt. Once the alt cannot produce the amount of amperage being demanded it starts pulling from the batt. Its best and WISE to have an alt capable of your current demand and then some to be able to charge the batt. With an undersized alt you will tax it and it will start pulling from the batt and with not enough power to recharge the battery your on a long road of trouble.

j.reed wrote: [QUOTE=z03mz03m] I think the "car audio guy" knows a little more than you do. Each one of your three 10" type R's is rated at 500Watts RMS which means that that is the recommended amount of power you should provide to each of them, you do the math.

Completely wrong! The RMS rating on a sub is amaximum amount of rms it can handle without mechanical damage rated by the manufacturer. I must disagree haemphyst: I am running my sub in my trunk with close to 1200 watts RMS, and the woofers are only rated 300 WRMS, AND they are in a transmission line. That's a potential 100% "overpower" Grant it he has extreme control over his crossover points and other things that i don't know about but I'm sure he has them tuned so they are not being damaged or he would not have done it. But what I said up there is the RECOMMENDED power not mandatory for you to hear anything. So let me make my thoughts clearer. Alpine RECOMMENDS 200-500watts of power to each sub. That amp has an RMS of 500watts @ 2ohms 500 divided by 3 is 166watts which is below what Alpine recommends as a minimum amount of power IF you can get those subs wired to 2ohms. It in no way shape or form means you must give them that much. Agreed Speculation gets you no where. Agreed

Sorry for jumping the gun Mr Reed, Im going off what I REED:) He said 3ea Type-R 10's in the first post. The best 3 sub config that can be done for the M-500 is 2.67ohms which comes from the Alpine Type-R SWR-1042D 10" Dual 4-ohm. I was just pointing out that 3 Type R 10's + a amp not running at full potential. Two 10's vented will produce(honorably) the optimum sound you can get with the power. I'll speculate that the right vented box with two 10's will be a upgrade to whatever he has right now though, if I may?   Id also speculate these type r's are sealed,(probably eat that one) leaving only 1 good choice of their power to tame the 10" TRIO......M-2Kw...This is what I do for FUN!

simplyfalling wrote: Hi everybody!  So I have an Alpine mrp-m500 that I have been using for a while with some cheap kickers i bough from ebay.  I just bought a custom box with three type r 10 inch subs.  The sales guy told me that my amp isnt enough to really make this box slam.  My thinking is that my amp runs my kickers fine so these r's should sound good to, but with more bass.  I think the caraudio guy doesnt know what he is talking about.  What do you think.?

With out the questions I asked before there is no telling. If it will please you. There are too many variables unanswered.

z03mz03m wrote: I think the "car audio guy" knows a little more than you do. Your amp the mrp-m500 is rated at (300 Watts @ 4ohms and 500 watts @ 2ohms)RMS. Each one of your three 10" type R's is rated at 500Watts RMS which means that that is the recommended amount of power you should provide to each of them, you do the math.

"500watts is the recommended amount YOU SHOULD PROVIDE to each of them". That sure sounds like you were saying thats what they need to play. Glad you clarified your answer a bit. I would also like to add that yes Hamphist may be running well over rated power, but warranty if some went wrong is gone, not EVERYONE has the ear or slopes to be able to do that, he is using a stuffed TL designed to handle the power and he is not the normal audio guy. Yes you did catch me a bit. I should have said the 500rms was RECOMMENDED max the manufacture say that mechanical malfunction will or can easily occur. Not every speaker is built to the same standards either.

z03mz03m wrote: impedance in ohms I was referring to is defined by this sites Glossary (link at top of site) and there are subwoofer wiring calculators (link at top of site) to help you determine how to connect your subs properly.(wire them all to a total load of 2ohms if possible(you can interchange the two methods to achieve this))

Care to elaborate how you can wire 3 dual 4ohm subs or dual 2ohm subs at a 2ohm load? You can use the wire wizard if you need to, but i will tell you now it NOT possible. The closest would be 2.67 using dual 4ohm.

z03mz03m wrote: They are really nice subs though and that's not a bad amp you have if you only had one of those subs but something bad will eventually happen if you try this one way or another.

Care to elaborate how something bad will happen if gains are set correctly and at an ohm load compatible to the amp? I will answer for you. Nothing bad would happen.

j.reed wrote: Tell us more about the system as far as what were the other subs. How many kicker subs? DVC or SVC and ohm of coil/s? How were they wired? And now the type R's specs, dual 4 or 2 ohm? This is stuff that needs to be answered before any GOOD answer can come about.

For all we know you are running 2 dvc 4ohm kickers for a 4ohm load with the kicker subs. Meaning you would increase in power and cone area with the type r's. Also the kickers could be in a sealed enclosure as well. Thus the reason for me saying more info is needed to make a GOOD answer. Finally you will have to be the judge if the output and sound is where you want it. If you do need or want more output. As i said before the MPR-2000 would be a perfect amplifier match, but you must also beef up the electrical system to back it and upgraded wiring.