the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

1972 f250 big 3 upgrade


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
ashton_1012 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2012
Posted: February 22, 2012 at 1:05 AM / IP Logged  
I trying to figure out how to do the "Big 3" upgrade to my 1972 ford f250. The problem i am having is that the positive wire doesnt go directly to the alternator, it goes to the started solenoid then 3 small wires go from that to the alternator. Is there a way to go directly from the battery to the alternator, or turn those 3 wires into one?
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: February 22, 2012 at 3:11 AM / IP Logged  
Nothing stopping you replacing the (batt-)starter-alt wire with a direct batt-alt wire - unless it voids your F250 warranty. (Yes, jest kidding!)
And I am assuming your battery is in the engine bay - not rear or remote mounted.
But direct should be better - it will be shorter and hence less resistance. (Though the battery to starter cable should be pretty fat so it will have minimal resistance, but then there's the connectors...)
Note that modern vehicles include a fuse between the alternator and battery, but this is (supposedly) to protect the cable (or battery) if the cable shorts to ground - it won't protect the alternator.
But I prefer unfused "physical security" - ie, like the unfused battery to starter cable, and old skool unfused battery-alternator cables, they are physically protected from shorts - ie, good insulation (maybe shrouded), solid connectors and connections, and well mounted with no rubbing against other objects.
FYI - and older alternator (usually with an external body-mounted voltage regulator) should never come adrift from the battery. The battery is usually the voltage reference, and if the alternator "floats", its voltage generally rises and blows vehicles electrics. Hence a reason against a fuse.
However if all electrics are from the battery, that shouldn't be a problem. (Generally they were, with some only powering headlights direct from the alternator.)
[ Modern alternators with integral regulators have their own voltage reference and hence the battery can be disconnected, but then there is no battery to squash damaging voltage spikes. ]
And BTW, if it is physically ok to add the new alternator-battery cable to the alternator with the existing alt-starter wire(s), why not keep the old? It can only reduce resistance, and adds a redundant path. But if it's too messy...
And BTW#2, if you have an old externally regulated alternator, next time you have charging problems, ditch both and get an "all in one" alternator - they are far superior (with less problems and risks). I'd suggest a 2-wire alternator aka SL type - Sense and charge Light. The S goes to the battery for an accurate battery voltage reading (no matter where the battery is), and the L is your normal chargeLight circuit.   (There are also 3-wire SIL types - Sense-Ignition-chargeLight, but these have generally been replaced by the 2-wire types, except for single-wire types (D+ - the same as L).
ashton_1012 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: February 22, 2012
Posted: February 22, 2012 at 10:55 AM / IP Logged  
ok, so should i leave the positive wire going to the starter solenoid, and just run another one going to the alternator? because there are other wires connected to the soleoid, not just the alternator wires, so i think if i completely eliminate the positive going to the solenoid then ill have some problems.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, October 31, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer