15power HX-2@1 ohm?

i have a r.f. 15"power Hx-2 wired at 1 ohm to a kicker 1200.1 stable at 1 ohm .specs say it delivers 1400 watts rms @ 1ohm. my 15"is rated @1000 watts rms 2000 max ive had no problems ,but my subs dust cap gets really hot .i dont want to burn the voice coil is this safe or should i rewire it to 4 ohms thou i wont get that same kick.I also have an epicenter with the sub .any suggestionsI love bass

Here's a link to your KX1200.1 manual. Here's a link to your RFR3115 manual. Unless you're running an upgraded electrical system, then you're not getting 1400RMS from that amp. Kicker runs their specs from 13.8 and 14.4 volts. Your amps specs (from Kicker) are 1200x1@1ohm based on a 13.8volt system, and 1350x1@1ohm based on a 14.4volt system. If you still have a stock electrical system (12volts), then you're probably only getting around 1000 - 1100 watts RMS to the sub (which is still right around exactly what it needs so you're okay there). Most subs will get hot depending on how hard you drive them. Are you talking warm, 1st degree burn, or almost ready to start smoke'n? You should be wired like this for the 1ohm... epicenter? What type of enclosure are you using for the RFR3115? Sealed, Ported, etc...? Also, do you know the volume of the enclosure? Here's a link to RF recommended Power HX2 enclosures. You can also try turning down the gains, bass boost and adjusting the crossover. What are they set at now?Squirrel

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well im using a ported enclosure u see i had a kicker L7 15 with those custom ported boxes u know.but burned the voice coil so kept the box covered the square hole and cut a round one.since i didnt want to mess with the set up to much thou it lacks the bass from my L7 kicker i miss it .thou i got a good deal on a pair of RFR3115's $350.00 each  new so thats why i got them.  plus they look a lot tuffer than the L7.yes i still have the stock electrical its a 2002 dodge neon SXT ive upgraded to an optima yellow top and memphis 1Farad cap as for my EPIC it an audio control it s called THE EPICENTER concert series patented  bass restoration .it works miracles.as for my gains its half .bassboost at 6 .X over is an audio control 3XS 90Hz sub 150Hz front 90Hz rear im runnin it off  a clarion 925 head unit oh and a kicker 600.4  for my highs .3 1/2  clarions 6 1/2  clarions  6x9  clarions kenwwood tweeters 2visor monitors and two headrest monitors . i keep messinwith the gains  adjust the Xover but i still cant get it to sound right i mean its probaly cus im comparin them to the kicker L715 confused? help what would sound good i want hard hittin deed bass not muffeld or muddy like i have know I love bass

Now I'm a little confused. Are you running 1 or 2 RFR3115's (you said you bought a pair, but only referenced 1 in your original post). I could be wrong, but I'd increase your crossover setting for the sub. I run mine at 230Hz from a variable crossover with LPF for 2 RFD2112's (Punch 12" HX2's). What type of "custom enclosure" are you using. The only one's I could find from Kicker only went up to the 12" subs. I'm willing to bet that with a different enclosure at the right specs you would get a lot better sound out of the sub. The wrong enclosure size can also harm a sub if it is too far out of the specs. If the enclosure is too big (which I have a feeling it is), then you can either add some pollyfil to the inside or add some more internal bracing to reduce the internal volume of the enclosure. If you add bracing, remember to reseal the seams. You also need to look at the ports. They may have been tuned for the Kickers, but may not be the same for the RF's. Use the Enclosure guide I linked to before to get the specs you need. Ports that are tuned wrong can deffinately change a great sounding sub into a crappy sounding one. Did you get the "good deal" off of eBay? If you did, I'd take them into a shop and have them tested. You may have gotten a bad pair.Squirrel

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im using only one . i got them from my work i work in sales in a shop in denver co. thanks for the advice ill ask one of the guys(instalers) if they can help me build the right box. i was wonderin could i hook up both speakers lets say @1ohm each IN parallel that would make them 0.5ohms right is that safe for the 1200.1?or noI love bass

No, the 1200.1 isn't stable at 0.5 ohm that I know of. You could hook up 2 RFR3115's in a series/parallel configuration for a 2ohm total load though. The 2ohm output should be around 600 watts. The unfortunate part with that is each sub would only get 300watts RMS, which is a major underpowering of 1000RMS subs. It wouldn't hurt the subs, but they would sound better with 1000RMS each. If your interested here's the wiring diagram... Squirrel

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ok squirrel thanks for all the help.weve build a box for one speaker its 26"w  21"h and 13"deep made from 1 1/4 Mdf  wood .I wont have a chance to instal it for about a week so what do you think will it sound good?im going to use only one speaker @1 ohm s.I love bass

You're a little on the high side for the recommended internal volume. According to the RF specs you should be shooting for between 1.42 and 1.81 cu. ft. Based on the12volt's calculator your running at 2.64 cu. ft. right now. You didn't mention anything about a port, so I'm assuming you built a sealed? If the bass is to boomy (not tight enough) in that enclosure then you can either add some pollyfill or internal bracing to decrease the internal volume. I believe the pollyfill ratio is about 1 pound per cu. ft. but I'm not certain. You can always just add or take out whatever you want until you get the sound you're looking for (just try to keep it away from the cone, and don't staple it to the box, either use glue or just stuff it in there). It changes the soundwave and makes the sub think it's in a smaller enclosure. Adding internal bracing will physically decrease the volume, just make sure to reseal the edges. Other than that it should sound pretty good. Let us knowSquirrel

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I took the mesurements from the diagram in page 4 of the owners manual what givesit says its 1.25  cu ft. or did ii get it wrong . shoot ts a dam good box what should i put poly fill were can i get it hardware store maybeI love bass

The 1.25 cu ft. is the "net internal volume" (I'll refer to it as NIV from here on). RF doesn't add in the displacement of the woofer, ports, or any x-tra internal bracing. Since you want a sealed enclosure you don't have to worry about port displacement, and unless you added internal bracing you don't have to worry about figuring that in either. The displacement of the RFR3115 is 0.185 cu ft. So for your "gross internal volume" (I'll refer to it as GIV from here on) you take the "NIV + sub displacement" or "1.25 + 0.185" which equals 1.435 cu ft. total GIV needed before the sub is installed (an empty enclosure). That's the number to base your dimension calculations on. Once you install the sub, the displacement removes some of the airspace (0.185 cu ft.) leaving you with 1.25 cu ft. of "open air" inside the enclosure. RF uses 3/4" MDF in their enclosures (I believe) so I'm assuming you made your enclosure larger (dimension wise) than theirs to compensate for the 1/2" thickness difference since you used 1-1/4" MDF?. I ran the numbers from their example specs and they were for the Punch HE2 (RFPxxxx) and Punch HX2 (RFDxxxx) subs, not the Power HX2 (RFRxxxx). I say that because if you run their numbers (w=20 h=25 d=12 t=0.75) on the12volt's calculator you get 2.642 cu ft. NIV which is extremely close to their recommended NIV for the Punch HE2's and Punch HX2's. Your enclosure is about 1 cu ft. larger then it should be. If you want the "challenge!", you can rebuild the box to these specs... w=18 h=23 d=11 using 1.25" MDF. That would give you 1.563 cu ft. GIV. Subtract the displacement of 0.185 cu ft. and you wind up with 1.378 cu ft. NIV. Thats only 0.128 cu ft. larger then RF specs (and a lot better then the 1.392 cu ft. larger NIV that you have now). You can get polyfill at WalMart. It's just a fancy name for pillow stuffing (it is usually white and looks kinda like fiberglass insulation). For that matter you can actually use real fiberglass insulation if you wanted to, although it may make you itch! Another thing you can do is add internal bracing/panels (thicken up the inside walls) to decrease the amount of internal volume. An example is adding 4 pieces of wood onto the inside walls of the enclosure (one to the top, bottom, left, and right) each with the dimensions (in inches) 12x12x3. Each panel has a volume of 432 cubic inches. Divide that by 1728 (to convert to cubic feet) and you get a volume of 0.25 cu ft. per panel. Four panels of 0.25 cu ft. have a total combined volume of 1.0 cu ft. So, now you take your current GIV and subtract the total volume of the panels (2.642 - 1.00) and you get 1.642 cu ft. GIV. Subtract the displacement (0.185) and you get 1.457 cu ft. NIV. You're now only 0.207 cu ft. larger then the RF specs which is fine. You can tweek the dimensions to get closer if you want, I'm just throwing out suggestions. If you decide to add panels inside the enclosure make sure everything is screwed together tightly and sealed, otherwise you could get unwanted vibrations. Hope that helped Squirrel

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