Another Alternator question

Seems to be a hot topic right now! Bberman1, using your formula of Total RMS divided by 12.7, I come up with needing 104 amps for my system (based on 1320 watts total from my 3 amps that will be in my Explorer). I have a stock 130amp alternator in my Explorer and am getting ready to move my system over from mustang (currently 1160 watts). My question is should I upgrade the 130 amp alternator (since I would only have 26amps left over), or can I safely use a second battery that I already have instead (granted I'd need an isolator as well)? I know the simplest answer is install the system and look for dimming, but I have 2 different enclosure designs that I've created (1 with the 2nd battery, 1 without it). I don't want to build it and then have to rebuild it, so I'm trying to figure out everything before I actually do the install. Holly sh*t, I'm actually planning something for once! If I run the second battery, I plan on using 4awg from the Alt to the isolator, 4awg from the isolator to both batteries, and 4awg grounds as well. I'm going to use 4awg to my RF 1000bd, and 8awg for each of the 2 KAC-649S amps. If I upgraded the Alt, I'd use 1/0awg or 2awg to a distro block. Is it ok to only use 4awg if I decide to use the second battery instead, even though I'll have the equivilent of 2awg comming off of it? Squirrel

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The 2nd battery idea is great however you will still need an alternator that can provide enough power to charge both of your batteries, power your audio system, and your cars electrical system.  You really don’t need the 2nd battery and the isolator unless you plan on listening to the audio system for extended times with the engine not on. Now that 104 amps is at a max draw but you will very rarely if ever come near that since you don’t listen to your music with the amps at full volume due to distortion etc.  Either way you look at it you need a high output alternator. I would suggest that you get the largest one that you can find, your power is sort of like money to your car audio system you can never have too much in the bank. As far as the cabling goes I would suggest that your run 1/0 gauge power and ground  in between your alternator, chassis and any batteries you may have. .

I don't do many field parties anymore, so I don't think I'll have to worry about listening to the audio system with the vehicle turned off. I'll start looking into finding a HO alternator and a 1/0 gauge install kit. Not using the 2nd battery will keep the weight down in the back a little more too, an save me about 8 inches with the enclosure. Thx for all the help bberman1, its much appreciated.Squirrel

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I looked there already and am interested in their Kompressed series of "Flat" wire. I think I'll go with either their 1/0 Kolossus ($2.25/ft) or Kompressed ($2.75/ft). I'll probably go Kompressed. My distro blocks will accept 1/0 gauge, so I don't really need a "kit" anymore. I had to double check if they accepted that large of an input! I'll have to get a 1/0 - 4 AWG adapter for my ground block though, I think it's like $9 at Crutchfield. As far as an inline fuse near the battery, I was thinking of using a 200A circuit breaker this time. I found a PG one at Parts Express for $39.50, and it seems reasonable.Squirrel

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I have never been a fan of the circuit breakers...IMO a fuse would be a bit better, altho if you are prone to blowing them then a circuit breaker may be better for you in the long run...and if the fuse is just for your stereo, 200A might be a bit big for you, I would look more at 150A...thats the nice thing about fuses, you are free to do different sizes if u ever upgrade or change, at a much lower expense than buying new breakers... thats just my 2 cents however, and someone else may feel differently...

For protection purposes on the main fuse you always want a fuse/breaker as close to the total current draw as possible. 200 amps is way too big I would suggest a 120 amp breaker http://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=CB-120&Category_Code=CB

  http://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=D&Category_Code=CB

 

I was starting around a 200A circuit breaker just based on PG's website (they said to use a 200A breaker for 1/0awg wire). The closest fuse/breakers that I've found based on your suggestions are Stinger. Either 125A ANL fuse or 135A Circuit Breaker. I've never used Stinger before, I've always stuck with either PG or RF. PG makes a 140A Circuit Breaker, which is still a bit high (seeing as how my max current dray would be 104A). I'll probably go with a PG ANL inline fuse holder and a Stinger 125A fuse (I like the idea of a "cheaper upgrade" if it is necessary!). Any thoughts on Stinger's equipment?Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

If its too loud, then you're too old

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