the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

need ideas to wire two amps


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
Mjbarahona 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 28, 2004 at 12:13 PM / IP Logged  
Hi guys, im having a problem on getting the best way to wire two kenwood KAC-7251 amps. I have two sets of KFC-P605IE kenwood components/200W. I also have two JL Audio 10W6, I dont know if i can use one amp to run the components and the other for the woofers or connect them in tri mode and run a woofer from each amp along with one set of components in each amp. The amps are "800 Watts max power" 150x2 @4ohms, 230x2@2ohms, or 460x1 bridge at 2ohms. sorry for being to long with the statement but im trying to paint a compplete picture. any assistance will be appreciated.
DYohn 
Moderator - Posts: 10,741
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 28, 2004 at 1:00 PM / IP Logged  

OK, first of all that Kenwood amp cannot be bridged into 2-ohms.  It requires a minimum 4-ohm load when bridged.  You could connect your components in parallel to one amp, although you must realize you will have no front/rear fade control if you do this.  A much better solution would be to get a four-channel amp for your components, or use both amps (one on the front set and one on the rear set.)  Now to your subs.  I believe the 10W6 is rated at 300 watts RMS and has dual 6-ohm voice coils, correct?  So your possible configurations with two of them are 1.5 ohms, 6 ohms, or 24 ohms.  The only way you can safely use these with one of your amps is to wire then for 6-ohms net load (series-parallel) and bridge it to the amp.  This will deliver approximately 300 watts, or 150 watts per woofer.  A better solution would be to get a proper mono subwoofer amp like a JBL BP600.1 that can handle a 1.5 ohm load (parellel-parellel) and deliver closer to 600 watts into it.

While you COULD set up your systems in two seperate 3-way configurations, this is only possible if you build the proper passive crossover and connect the sub as a 6-ohm load on each amplifier.  If you know how to do this, then by all means go for it.

Support the12volt.com
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 28, 2004 at 1:23 PM / IP Logged  

I was pondering this for quite awhile...I know and you know that you ended up somehow with an oddball marriage of equipment.  Change out amps when you can, to a four channel 4 X 50 RMS, and a mono sub amp.  Meantime, you could get speakers installed and the system set up, and start listening to your music, knowing you can make improvements.  I wouldn't think of this setup as a keeper, though, as you might if you configure tri-way setups.

I would consider the components and subs as keepers, and trade out the amps at the best opportunity.  For interim listening, consider wiring the components left side in series, and right side in series.  You would have no fade control, mind you.  This would present an 8 ohm load onto each channel of one of the amps, providing about 75 watts to each side, or about 38 watts RMS to each component.  Not too far off the RMS of 50 watts that the components are rated at.  Then, use the other amp for the subs, and simply connect a sub to each channel for about 190 watts to each one.  The DVC subs would be parallel wired for 3 ohm each.

When you do change amps, you will have a louder system.  But the power requirements will be the same, as far as wiring for power goes.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Mjbarahona 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 28, 2004 at 4:33 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for your assisatnce guys.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, October 31, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer