Install opinions for new system

Home / the12volt's Install Bay / Car Audio / Install opinions for new system (

Topic Closed)

Welcome Guest :)

Members

< Prev Topic Next Topic >

Necros

Member - Posts: 3

Joined: July 12, 2004

Posted: July 12, 2004 at 9:58 AM / IP Logged

Hi,

I am installing a new budget system in my 2004 Honda Si (Hatch). I am planning on an Alpine CDA-9827 headunit with Polk 6 1/2 components in the front (db6500) and polk 2-way 6-1/2s in the rear (db650). I currently own a 3 year old Alpine 4x30 flex amp.

I am looking for opinions on the actual setup of this hardware, though if you have alternate recommendations at the same price point for speakers and head unit feel free to share.

Will I get better sound by bridging the amp to a 2x75(or whatever it turns out to be) and running just the fronts off the amp and rears off the head unit or does it make more sense to run in full 4-channel mode? If it makes a difference I only care about front seat sound quality. Also, I have noticed some posts about not mounting amps under the passenger seat, which is the only way I have ever done it, where else would be a good place? Without a trunk I don't really want to put it in a visible place like the hatch.

Last question, Do I run all new speaker wire to the doors or just bring all the speaker lines up to the head unit and connect to the factory wires? If I run my own is there some easy technique to re-wire? Maybe something like connecting the new cables to the old ones and pulling them through the same path?

kfr01

Gold - Posts: 2,121

This member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.

Joined: April 30, 2003

Posted: July 12, 2004 at 11:13 AM / IP Logged

1) Are you planning on running a sub. In my opinion a sub is a necessary upgrade. I'd skip out on the 6.5" rear speakers for now in favor of a small sub to fill out the bottom end. It will make music more rich and complete. The rear speakers, as you already recognize, add little.

If you're really trying to stay within that budget I'd consider buying an efficient 8" or 10" subwoofer and running it off 2 bridged channels of the amplifier.

2) I've heard good things about the polk speakers. If you haven't actually heard them, however, I'd suggest you try to hear them before you buy.

3) I'm not a professional installer, but the only problem I've ever heard with an under the seat amp is to watch the heat.

4) Assuming honda doesn't do anything funky I don't know about (good possibility) you can run the factory wire, especially since you aren't pushing a ton of power with that amplifier.

Hope this helps

New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

Necros

Member - Posts: 3

Joined: July 12, 2004

Posted: July 12, 2004 at 11:51 AM / IP Logged

Well, if I do end up getting the polk component fronts there is a package deal that I end up paying about $40 for the polk rears, so I figure I may as well just put them in. Factory rears are real junk.

I will probably put a sub in, but that's kind of a "phase 2" thing right now. I was hoping with 4 6 1/2's I would get at least decent sound without having to deal with a sub at this point. I am also always putting bikes/surfboards/climbing/camping equipment in the back and am not sure I want to deal with the sub. I had one in my last wagon (subaru legacy) and it was a real pain in the arse.

Basically, it's more about convienece than money. This car's also smaller than the last.

stevdart

Platinum - Posts: 5,816

This member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: January 24, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: July 12, 2004 at 12:43 PM / IP Logged

4 X 30 should be sufficient for what you are doing. You can run the rears on full range and the fronts on high pass, which will give you a louder front sound with the highs and the lowest bass that the coaxials can provide out of the rear. The factory wiring is too tight, taped and harnessed for the electrician's trick of tying on and pulling out an old wire while pulling in the new one. You'll probably find it simpler to tie onto a coat hanger and push through. In tight passages, it's sometimes easier to solder the F-disconnects onto the wire ends after getting the wire into the door, instead of pre-soldering. You would have better sound by running your speakers 4 X 30 at 4 ohms, instead of bridging them, because that would cut down on the quality measureably. And lots of amp installs go under the seat. Allow clearance for the heavy passenger...

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Necros

Member - Posts: 3

Joined: July 12, 2004

Posted: July 12, 2004 at 1:09 PM / IP Logged

Thanks for the advice stevdart, that's what I was looking for. I pulled out a rear speaker, and it looks like I have 18 gauge wire in there. As I am only pushing 30wpc it doesn't seem like I would gain much by pulling my own wire. Would you (or anyone else) agree/disagree with this? I'd rather not deal with it, but if it makes a noticable difference I'll do the wiring.

stevdart

Platinum - Posts: 5,816

Joined: January 24, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: July 12, 2004 at 1:20 PM / IP Logged

Factory wiring is fine...you wouldn't noitce any difference in the sound. One might with a very high power application. Test all the speakers for polarity before disconnecting the factory wiring from the old speakers, and label the wiring for polarity.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

Printable version

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Search the12volt.com

Follow the12volt.com

Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Install opinions for new system

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.This topic is closed.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.