Digital Capacitor Does Not Turn On

i have a problem with my capacitor....it does not turn on at all....everything is hooked up properly....power straight from cap to car battery....then from cap to amp.....ground from cap to car chassis.....remote wire from radio to remote on cap.....does not turn on at all...i have discharged the cap and have charged it...still does not turn on.....someone please help

could be a bad resistor in the display or a burn LED. If you have a multimeter or can get access to one see if the capacitor is holding a charge. If it is and its discharging at a higher voltage than the display is probably fried, if its not holding a charge and is only firing off at 12-14.4 then the cap itself might be bad. I'd be leaning more towards a burned out led or something like that because caps dont usually fail unless you do something dumb, to which there's usually an explosion in your trunk "Shiny chrome when used in conjunction with bikini models is particularly effective in inducing brain deficit disorder"

02 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Monster System on its way.

teh cap is ALWAYS "on" there is no on or off for a capacitor. the remote lead only turn on the curcuitry for the display, nothing else. The display is for nothing more than lights... (oohhh, shiny! ) do not worry about the display, it does nothing to help or hinder the function of a cap... hook it up and forget about it. a cap CANNOT discharge at a voltage that is higher than it is supplied with, so, because your car is 14.4 (nominal, engine running) the cap cannot supply more than 14.4 volts for the amplifier consumption - if a cap could supply more voltage than it is supplied WITH, then it would be an amplifier. a cap is a voltage device, meaning it will provide as much current it can, for as long as it can... as long as there is charge in it. it does this by dumping as many electrons as it has for as long as it can into the load. if the load is small, the dump can last a significant amount of time (low current, similar to a SMALL battery) if the load is big, the time frame will be shorter (high current) but always 14.4 volts. the more current dumped, the shorter the time it can dump it. the amount of current it can supply is determined by the ESR (equivalent series resistance) of the cap - lower ESR = more current - this is why you want the lowest ESR you can locate. Granted, the voltage WILL begin to drop, but not until VERY LATE (relatively speaking) in the discharge cycle.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

i have triedit on my friends car and it works...but when i put it back to my car it doesn't light up.......i have checked all the connections and they are all fine...metered all the wires to make sure everything has power but still no turn on.....please help

You may try connecting the remote lead to a different 12 v source, switched or unswitched.  Use a separate wire than the amp remote from the deck.  For this test, the wire doesn't have to be installed (pulling carpet edges,etc),  just run a wire and see if it turns the display on.Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.