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hooking up multipul alternators


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jeffchilcott 
Platinum - Posts: 2,483
Platinum spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 31, 2004 at 8:36 AM / IP Logged  
Hey I am seeing the posts about multipul batterys, now lets go ahead on multipul alternators.    I will be running (2) 300 amp alternators,   for now one battery up front, and 1 battery for each amp in the rear.   thats 4 batterys 180amps worth of draw per amp...any suggestions on how to wire all this...Should I run each battery seperate, or wire them all together and have one "large cell" to power all the amps...I was also considering ditching all the batterys and going with a 8400 batcap, but havent had good luck with batcaps...any ideas
2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place
audiocableguy 
Copper - Posts: 630
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2003
Location: Idaho, United States
Posted: October 31, 2004 at 11:21 AM / IP Logged  
What has happend to your Batcaps?
Anyway, Sounds like you are going to need plenty of 2/0 AWG and 1/0 AWG! Neoprene Welding cable is hard to beat. Carol makes a Super Vu-tron that is tough as nails. Not pretty but damm it works! Glad to see someone gets it! Some might try adding twice the batteries with a stock alternator! Wrong! Your post isn't clear, are you wanting to use both alternators to power your system or just use one to power the vehicle and the other as an Audio? Well if the second idea is correct . . .
In the past, Buss bars were common linking all the batteries into a "large cell". Then fused leads were taken from the Pos. Buss to the amp(s). Since you are connected to all the batteries with a high current chunk of copper, distro is made simple. ANL fuse bolted to Buss, Cable attached to fuse, amp attached to cable, done. Fewer connections and less expense.
The Neg. buss helps to keep the grounds grouped together which reduces the possibility for ground noise. This arrangement allows your amps to have full current access to all the batteries equally.   
Voltage Regulation should be better using the common Buss meathod. The Regulator would be attached to the Buss and not to an independant battery seperated from others. As we all know, the batteries should be the same make model and age. This should allow a more realistic measurement. This is a logical deduction so someone might have better insite. Might be a big issue if you are planning to use both alternators to power both the Audio and the vehicle. Should be ok as long as the two alternators are not seeing one another directly.
The down side, Large copper bars are not cheap. Depending on the type of battery terminals, you might need to get creative. You will have fabrication to do, however you deside what and where you want! Weight!
From my understanding, the large Batcap is a huge Cap with a relatively long high Peak current capability. If your vehicle is running when playing heavy SPL it should help to keep your voltage rails stiff like a standard cap would. You are saving the hundred or more pounds of hauling around regular batteries. If you are playing with the vehicle off, or Death Matching, batteries will give you more Consistant current over a much longer period of time. Maybe a marrage of the two of them is the answer!
Hope this helps in someway. Many Folks, Many Ideas.
jeffchilcott 
Platinum - Posts: 2,483
Platinum spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 31, 2004 at 3:43 PM / IP Logged  
That helps alot,    The play so far is to keep a factory battery hooked up, but hooked up to the alternator only to drive 2 and from shows,   besides that, just getting in the lanes ect I will disconnect the battery up front. Both of the alternators will be wired for the system, I need 600+ amps...alot of juice.    I am thinking i will have to run isolators between the 2 alternators correct...say ALT----ISO----Distro---Larger Cable---batterys in back      this seem alright?   This is my first mulit alternator install so kinda weird.   Not everyone needs 600-700 amps of current..This is a SPL vehicle only
2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place
audiocableguy 
Copper - Posts: 630
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2003
Location: Idaho, United States
Posted: October 31, 2004 at 8:11 PM / IP Logged  
Linking the two alternators is a question for the manufacture. Team Gates for example is running 6 or more units. They do not say how they are connected. Regulation would be a concern. Not sure if you use 1 reg split or each one seperate. The pro's at WranglerNW.com would be able to help you.
Not sure what amps you are using but I ran x2 Hifonics Seris 7 Collossus 100amps each, x4 Zeus 75amps each, x2 Boltars 50amps each. off a 175 Amp alternator and 2 marine batteries without a hitch for years. That's 600 amps Max draw. Figure in 50% duty cycle down to 300 Amps.
What the Alt can't supply the batteries will.
jeffchilcott 
Platinum - Posts: 2,483
Platinum spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 31, 2004 at 8:49 PM / IP Logged  
Well to start I will be running (4) SPL z1x300d's   they draw 160 or 180 amps I cant remember right now,    but I might step up to running 8 amps,   I still need to look a little more before I get anything I have the subs and 1 amp so far to run some test with for now, when the time comes I will get the rest
2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

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