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Power/Cap Problem


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snakeyes8079 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 11, 2006 at 6:57 PM / IP Logged  

Hello all,

        I recently installed a system in my 2003 Dodge Durango. I ran 4 awg power wire from the battery to my 1/2 ferid cap. Then I ran 8 awg power wire from the cap to my Kicker 250.2 amp. I also ran 8 awg ground wire from my amp to the cap then to chasie ground. I have the amp briged at 4 ohms pushing my JL Audio 10W3-2 DVC with 14 awg speaker wire. All my connections are soldiered.

The first week or so it sounded great, but the lights on the dash and my headlights would dim slightly when the bass would hit. I did not think much of it but then the amp started shutting off. When I opened the back up I noticed that the meter on the cap was flashing 0 volts! After shutting the amp off the cap charged back to 14.4 Vdc but when I shut the car off it seemed th drain quicker than normal.

What could be my problem? Does the amp really pull that much current? Do I need a bigger cap? Will the fuse, if to small, limit the current to the cap?

I will do some more testing and will update with anything else I find.

Think You for any input!

Lawrence Thompson
ET/Field Service Technician
      Snakeyes8079
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 11, 2006 at 10:13 PM / IP Logged  

A fuse does not limit current.  Rather, it burns up if too much current flows across it.

I suspect your battery needs to be replaced.  And (although this is not a reason for the symptoms) upgrade the battery-to-chassis OEM wire with another length of 4 gauge along side the original after you put the new battery in.  The original is likely only rated for the electrical system as equipped by the manufacturer.

We will hope that the OEM alternator is capable of supplying enough current for the slight added demand the audio system asks of it.  At this point I'll presume it's sufficient because you had good results for the first week.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
snakeyes8079 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 12, 2006 at 6:51 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you for your reply. I found the problem! It was a bad ground for the cap and amp. The screw had worked loose, and was viberating around. I will definently up grade my OEM wireing though. Thanks for the tip!
Lawrence Thompson
ET/Field Service Technician
      Snakeyes8079
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 14, 2006 at 9:17 AM / IP Logged  
Loose or bad ground = number one culprit when a problem rears its ugly head.  I should have said that.  Glad you found the solution.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

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